Need help for Ro/Di

[Ibra9]

Hi all reefers,
I don't know why my resin media run out so fast. I have Aquatic Life 50 GPD RO buddy connected to normal 10' cartridge holding the resin media in it as the 4th stage. Water pressure before going through the RODI system is about 70psi. I bought the unit 3 or 4 months ago.
I am using BRS bulk deionization resin (http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/brs-bulk-deionization-resin-color-changing.html). The 7.5lbs DI resin lasts less than 2 months, cost about 30 bucks for a month. Do you think it is normal? Oh I am using city water, here is the water treatment plant (http://www.pittks.org/DocumentCenter/View/2391).
Should I change to BRS RODI system?

 

[AZDesertRat]

What is your water temperature, exact measured waste ratio, tap TDS and RO only TDS? Do you make water in nice long batches or in small batches?

I never ever recommend the portable RO or RO/DI systems mainly because of the exact situation you are in. 7.5 lbs of resin would last me over 4 years with my current RO/DI and that's making water for a 100g with 30g sump and a 16g nano in Phoenix with huge evaporation rates.

BRS would not be on my list of recommended systems or resin either one, average at best and more expensive than systems that are much better which will cost you less per treated gallon.

 

[Ibra9]

OMG, I am shocked now, within 4 months I use also 2 back of 7.5lbs resin. I thought RODI water costs more than salt mix, that why I think something is going wrong with the system
Typical rejection rate 1:4.5 ( it's stated in the box)
The temperature is around 77F.
I don't have a TDS yet. I am considering to change RODI system, I don't like Aquatic life because it creates too much water waste.
What kind of RODI system, DI resin media should u suggest?

 

[Ibra9]

oh I usually make water in long batches. I have a shut off valve but it's just in case when I forget to shut off the water supply when the brute gets full.

 

[ngvu1]

AJ, AZDesertRat, has many posts about RO/DI maybe check out his posts. I'll be repeating him here; you need to make sure TDS before DI state is less than 5 to help keep DI resin last longer. I make about 1 gallon of RO water before hooking up the DI canister. Also I use a booster pump, 100 PSI, which makes the membrane works more effectively. However, 70 PSI is not bad at all.

 

[Ibra9]

@AZDesertRat: Can you give me advice base on the water treatment plant I posted a link above? I would love to invest on a good RODI system that will cost less in long term. I know spectapure is the best, but don't know which one I should get. Chlorine or chloramine? I am have 2 canisters that could use for dual DI resin.

 

[Ibra9]

AJ, AZDesertRat, has many posts about RO/DI maybe check out his posts. I'll be repeating him here; you need to make sure TDS before DI state is less than 5 to help keep DI resin last longer. I make about 1 gallon of RO water before hooking up the DI canister. Also I use a booster pump, 100 PSI, which makes the membrane works more effectively. However, 70 PSI is not bad at all.

Thank you for your help. What TDS meter is reliable?

 

[ngvu1]

I got a few and pretty much anything on amazon is good. less than $10

Thank you for your help. What TDS meter is reliable?

 

[xREEFINaintEZx]

OMG, I am shocked now, within 4 months I use also 2 back of 7.5lbs resin. I thought RODI water costs more than salt mix, that why I think something is going wrong with the system
Typical rejection rate 1:4.5 ( it's stated in the box)
The temperature is around 77F.
I don't have a TDS yet. I am considering to change RODI system, I don't like Aquatic life because it creates too much water waste.
What kind of RODI system, DI resin media should u suggest?

I hate the waste

OMG, I am shocked now, within 4 months I use also 2 back of 7.5lbs resin. I thought RODI water costs more than salt mix, that why I think something is going wrong with the system
Typical rejection rate 1:4.5 ( it's stated in the box)
The temperature is around 77F.
I don't have a TDS yet. I am considering to change RODI system, I don't like Aquatic life because it creates too much water waste.
What kind of RODI system, DI resin media should u suggest?

I didn't like the amount of waste water myself... With 70 psi you might be interested in this

 

[ReeferBob]

You need a TDS meter like the below. I have two of them on my system. You at least need to put it before and after the membrane to see what your membrane is doing. The rate of using up DI resin is not dependent on the system quality as most of the name brands are about the same. It is related to TDS. Before anyone can help you, you need to get a TDS meter and see what is going on with your system.

https://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-D...TF8&qid=1473272448&sr=8-12&keywords=tds+meter

Here is a pic of how your system should be set up. Make sure it is set up properly.

 

[Ibra9]

It is related to TDS. Before anyone can help you, you need to get a TDS meter and see what is going on with your system.

I will get the TDS meter like that one soon and put it before and after the membrane.
The picture above shows the water goes through Pre-filter -> carbon block-> membrane -> DI cartridge.
I set up my RODI like the instruction. The water goes sediment cartridge ->carbon block -> membrane -> DI cartridge. Is it the right way?

 

[jasonrusso]

I use the BRS media and it works just fine. I buy the refill kits with the 3 filters. They usually last me 7-8 months and I make 20 gallons a week.

They weren't lasting that long until I realized what was happening. I bought the BRS inline TDS meter. I put it after my RO membrane. When I first turn it on, the TDS spikes to the level before the membrane. I made a bypass valve to send that water directly to waste. I watch the TDS meter until it drops to below 20 then I shut the bypass. The DI resin will always drop the TDS to zero but you are exhausting it with the initial spike.

 

[AZDesertRat]

My suggestion for a good reef quality RO/DI is the refurbished system from Spectrapure, usually on sale for less than $125.
I highly discourage inline TDS meters! They are not ATC temperature compensated, cannot be calibrated, lack the accuracy of a similarly priced ATC handheld that can also double as a digital thermometer and are limited to a few testing locations while the handheld can be used anywhere.

Do not fall for the BRS water saver bunk, it is false and not that simple. Dual membranes make more water faster, that's it, they do not save water if you expect a normal life out of your membranes. If it was that simple everyone would have been doing this decades ago, they are nuts.

 

[AquaticLifeProducts]

You can change the flow restrictor to change your waste to filtered ratio.

 

[jkoot]

This may sound a bit crazy but I experienced a similar problem with my vertex unit for a about a year, constantly going through membranes and DI resins at about the same rate you are (6-8 weeks).

What I determined was I had moved the unit, and forgot to reinstall the flow restrictor on the waste line.

Make sure you have one installed, could be as easy as that. Once installed, working like a charm

J

 

[Ibra9]

You can change the flow restrictor to change your waste to filtered ratio.

The flow restrictor stated 450. I have no idea about that number.

Make sure you have one installed, could be as easy as that. Once installed, working like a charm

I installed it when I started it. The flow restrictor stated 450.

My suggestion for a good reef quality RO/DI is the refurbished system from Spectrapure, usually on sale for less than $125.
I highly discourage inline TDS meters! They are not ATC temperature compensated, cannot be calibrated, lack the accuracy of a similarly priced ATC handheld that can also double as a digital thermometer and are limited to a few testing locations while the handheld can be used anywhere.

Do not fall for the BRS water saver bunk, it is false and not that simple. Dual membranes make more water faster, that's it, they do not save water if you expect a normal life out of your membranes. If it was that simple everyone would have been doing this decades ago, they are nuts.

I agree with you because I don't wanna buy 2 membranes when time comes to replace them. I've head about spectapure is a good brand. I think I will go with it. I just spent $120 for just a resin in the last 4 months. That was a waste.
I don't know how long will the membrane of refurbished system from Spectrapure usually last? also the carbon cartridge, and pre- filter cartridge?
And what kind of Resin media do I need for that system? (http://spectrapure.com/FILTERS-MEMBRANES-RESIN/DI-CARTRIDGES-RESIN)

 

[Ibra9]

You can change the flow restrictor to change your waste to filtered ratio.

Thanks for your suggestion. What flow rate of the restrictor will you suggest for the 50GPD RODI buddie from Aquatic Life? The flow restrictor of my RO buddie stated at 450 or 400, I am sorry I don't remember exactly. And will it make the DI resin last longer?

 

[Ibra9]

You need a TDS meter like the below. I have two of them on my system. You at least need to put it before and after the membrane to see what your membrane is doing. The rate of using up DI resin is not dependent on the system quality as most of the name brands are about the same. It is related to TDS. Before anyone can help you, you need to get a TDS meter and see what is going on with your system.

https://www.amazon.com/HM-Digital-D...TF8&qid=1473272448&sr=8-12&keywords=tds+meter

Here is a pic of how your system should be set up. Make sure it is set up properly.

Thank you so much for the picture. I installed the shutoff switch in wrong place so it's never done the job for me lol. After reinstalling it, it's doing sweet.

 

[AZDesertRat]

Sediment and carbon block filters should be changed every 6 months like clockwork unless you have clean, softened tap water and you monitor both the headloss and chlorine breakthru using the inline pressure gauge and a low range chlorine test kit.
Spectrapure RO membranes can easily go 10 years if you use their high quality low micron absolute or near absolute rated replacements following the suggested frequency or monitoring schedule. I'm at 9 years on my current membrane and it is still producing 99+% rejection rate. Use their SilicaBuster DI replacements which are custom blended specifically for reef use instead of others premixed bulk resins which last about 1/3 as long and may never give you true 18.2 megaohm pure water.

If you want to fine tune or change your waste ratio, forget the fixed flow restrictors like 450mL etc and buy an untrimmed capillary tube restrictor then follow the included directions on how to adjust it for an exact waste ratio for your own, unique water conditions. The fixed restrictors are rarely correct. Vendors think we are dummies and can't fine tune our RO/DI systems ourselves. The correct waste ratio is determined by your water hardness, tap water TDS, water pressure and water temperature. What is correct for one person or location is not correct for another since everyone's water is different.

 

[Ibra9]

Sediment and carbon block filters should be changed every 6 months like clockwork unless you have clean, softened tap water and you monitor both the headloss and chlorine breakthru using the inline pressure gauge and a low range chlorine test kit.
Spectrapure RO membranes can easily go 10 years if you use their high quality low micron absolute or near absolute rated replacements following the suggested frequency or monitoring schedule. I'm at 9 years on my current membrane and it is still producing 99+% rejection rate. Use their SilicaBuster DI replacements which are custom blended specifically for reef use instead of others premixed bulk resins which last about 1/3 as long and may never give you true 18.2 megaohm pure water.

If you want to fine tune or change your waste ratio, forget the fixed flow restrictors like 450mL etc and buy an untrimmed capillary tube restrictor then follow the included directions on how to adjust it for an exact waste ratio for your own, unique water conditions. The fixed restrictors are rarely correct. Vendors think we are dummies and can't fine tune our RO/DI systems ourselves. The correct waste ratio is determined by your water hardness, tap water TDS, water pressure and water temperature. What is correct for one person or location is not correct for another since everyone's water is different.

Thank you for your suggestion.