NEED HELP KILLING DINOS

brandon429 · Apr 17, 2019

so in our threads for jobs of persistence, we like to start running mini modeling on the invader vs experimenting with the whole tank. its not that we can't clean it again, its that the growback is more work and even at 40 g's we're hoping to wait to do the cleaning until we know what works, so we lessen redos if possible.

If your tank was mine Id be taking out a rock or two and running them in a smaller nano with all the rip cleaning in place to see how they fare in a system that can be truly accessed even 5x if required, just to know something about the invader after a series of real moves. working in the big tank is simply hard to be that thorough, corals to care for etc

in the mini model we can be mean but within the bounds of what filtration bacteria will tolerate for skip cycle reassembly. Id like to brainstorm w you ways of increment testing

Oshengems · Apr 17, 2019

I was in this boat during the holidays, I got Vibrant for bubble algae, and was struggling with Dinos really bad! I was letting them accumulate untouched for 2 weeks and doing water changes and syphoning out as much as I can during water changes plus the Vibrant dosages and slowly I saw the shift from appearing over night after removal to stay tamed for days in between for dinos to reappear. I even got a UV which I didn’t get to used after I started dosing Vibrant

brandon429 · Apr 17, 2019

Vibrant has been shown to help in some dino tanks agreed, and Im not opposed to trying it his system either since there's no sandbed there's not much of a risk of cyano invasion tradeoffs which is common with vibrant. even if some tradeoff cyano forms on the rocks, its easier to remove/work with than a sandbed invasion that's for sure.

John's tank and its sectioned-off sample rocks can undergo some neat trials independent of the large tank. for example, taking out test rocks and cleaning them in saltwater, then running freshwater across them for a while to try and osmotically shock the dino cells, shown to work in prior threads (fw dips) and this doesn't kill filtration bacteria, they're insulated for the minor fw run.

Its very harsh on dinos however

water doser trials...better to run in the nano vs whole tank.

the nano can simply be a paint bucket, kept topped off, cheaply heated and airstone cir if you want/cheap. we simply start doing harsher physical stuff to the test rocks till we find what sustains. fw being flowed across the test rocks is hard on worms and pods, not the bac. That's why it w be neat to see how test rocks fare in a sep bucket of saltwater for cast off detritus and animals that may be adhered/inside

not all rocks are chock full of worms, some can be worked easily wo loss of benthic animals if they're not even there in great numbers to begin with

Oshengems · Apr 17, 2019

brandon429 said:
Vibrant has been shown to help in some dino tanks agreed, and Im not opposed to trying it his system either since there's no sandbed there's not much of a risk of cyano invasion tradeoffs which is common with vibrant. even if some tradeoff cyano forms on the rocks, its easier to remove/work with than a sandbed invasion that's for sure.

Definitely is I’m seeing cyano now, but just to point out I’ve had cyano outbreaks 3 times in this tank prior to using Vibrant, I Believe we all go through some sort of cyano bloom at some point simply because cyano is everywhere it’s a very pesky organism probably worst than dinos but just easier to control about to do a 3rd session of chemiclean

Oshengems · Apr 17, 2019

To the OP don’t get discouraged have that Turkey Baster ready to do daily or every 2-3 days syphon of the big chunks, don’t do things drastically this is not an over night fix but worth the battle to gain the experience I believe at some point all reefers go through this

brandon429 · Apr 17, 2019

your cyano would be easy to fix with a rip clean, chemi clean is only good for large tanks. it leaves the clouding waste in place even if it kills the cyano, a new invader capitalizes on the clouding still left...the cycle of invasion

small tanks/easy to fix cyano

how many gallons is yours

Oshengems · Apr 17, 2019

I have a 75g, I agree with a smaller tank that you could pull out a few rocks def an easier solution for both dinos and cyano when I was manually taking out the dinos it wasn’t that bad but could completely clean the rocks during the water changes it was easier since the suction from the hose was stronger but still left some behind which I used to blast of the rocks just to enjoy a few days of Dino free view but eventually used to come back, it’s been tamed for about a month now so has the bubble algae but now I see cyano in my sump where I have a frag rack and flow is very Lil compared to my display

Jonreefer · Apr 17, 2019

i already ordered Vibrant it should be here this week

Jon Fishman · Apr 17, 2019

I did a 50% water change after scrubbing all I could, added a little over a CUP of peroxide (probably super risky fyi) to my 95 total gallon system, then did 4 days of blackout, then another 50% water change, and haven't seen them since..... a month later. I keep 3 emeralds also.

Jonreefer · Apr 17, 2019

I just did a quick snap of them going nuts on my SPS. they are almost non existent on the rocks mainly just on my corals

brandon429 · Apr 17, 2019

Jon that’s amazing detail I’ve never seen them present that controlled and in place on corals

You’ve really knocked them back somehow though

Do those sloughs come off with a light topical siphon, like where it all comes off like a chain into the siphon..or do portions of the dinos still stick to corals if you hover a siphon over the top?