Need help plumbing sump please

[SandJ]

Tank is a 235g. There are 4 holes drilled in the bottom (back left corner). From front of the tank to the back they are:
1” 1 1/2” 1 1/2” 1”

The sump will be directly below the overflow, and the 2 1.5” drain pipes will connect to the sump with slip joints.

So coming out of the tank would be:
*Bulkhead
*Pvc pipe
*Union with valve
*Pvc pipe inserted into slip joint on sump

If I install it this way, how can I remove the piece connecting the union to the sump without removing the entire union, including the valve? Or do I just assume if I ever need to remove that piece, I will have to remove the valve?

I also want to plumb the return line using 45degree fittings instead of 90s, so open to suggestions on that too.

This is the bottom of the tank:

This is the sump...on its side for now:

And here is how it was previously plumbed:

 

[Katrina71]

I'll be following.

 

[redfishbluefish]

I would eliminate the valves all together. Those holes are close together and the torque put on that thin space between the valves, when turning them scares me. My first build had valves on the drains that never got turned off. After about a year I couldn't turn them if I wanted.

Instead of the valves I'd either use a union or simply a straight connector. I would glue the top joint closest to the tank, but leave the lower pipe un-glued and simply friction fit. This way easy to pull off (and that's why I suggested the straight connector.)

45's are just fine to use, but make sure you support any run of pipe so that it doesn't put tension on the bulkhead and holes.

 

[SandJ]

Thanks @redfishbluefish for the suggestions! I think I will glue the bulkhead, put in a union, and run a pipe into the sump (not glued).

Instead of a valve below the tank, I can just make a pvc joint to attach into the top of the overflows to stop the flow if needed. It would probably be faster and more reliable than the valve anyways.

 

[Vinman]

Unions everywhere you think you'll ever take it apart

 

[Nhltc99]

Definitely want some sort of valve on your drains. I use mine all the time. Preferably a gate valve on the primary drain for fine tuning. Need unions in case you ever have to remove the sump for any reason.

 

[Idoc]

I use the gate valve on my drain all the time fine tuning the flow. I have a Herbie design setup.

 

[pgammon]

I also have a Herbie, and I also have to adjust once in awhile.

 

[Orko]

I have a Herbie design and I have gate valves on both my drains and adjust them to quiet it down sometimes "fine tune it'

 

[Hallowhead]

I would imagine you're going with a bean animal overflow...

You would want a gate valve on at least one of those larger sizes. The rest can simply just flow straight. The gate valve is to adjust the flow of the full siphon to match the flow of your return pump back into the tank.

I would NOT friction fit plumbing as you're asking for it to pop out one day and empty your entire tank

 

[ReefHomieJon]

For the 45s instead of 90’s:
1.Measure center to center from where your vertical pipe is to where you need to go
2. Multiply that number by 1.414
3. Subtract your fitting allowance(the distance between where the pipe seats into the fitting minus the center of the fitting X 2(because there is a fitting on each side

That’s your perfect pipe length

 

[SandJ]

I would imagine you're going with a bean animal overflow...

You would want a gate valve on at least one of those larger sizes. The rest can simply just flow straight. The gate valve is to adjust the flow of the full siphon to match the flow of your return pump back into the tank.

I would NOT friction fit plumbing as you're asking for it to pop out one day and empty your entire tank

@Hallowhead to make it a bean animal overflow, I would have to replace one of the 1” return lines with an overflow line...is that what you are suggesting I should do?

And the only joint I am talking about slip fitting would be the one that connects into the sump. There is no way for it to slip out with the plumbing installed. In order to remove that piece, I would have to remove the entire union above it.

 

[SandJ]

Definitely want some sort of valve on your drains. I use mine all the time. Preferably a gate valve on the primary drain for fine tuning. Need unions in case you ever have to remove the sump for any reason.

I use the gate valve on my drain all the time fine tuning the flow. I have a Herbie design setup.

I also have a Herbie, and I also have to adjust once in awhile.

I have a Herbie design and I have gate valves on both my drains and adjust them to quiet it down sometimes "fine tune it'

I would imagine you're going with a bean animal overflow...

You would want a gate valve on at least one of those larger sizes. The rest can simply just flow straight. The gate valve is to adjust the flow of the full siphon to match the flow of your return pump back into

So it looks like several of you do adjust the gate valves on your tanks. Hmmm, may need them after all.

 

[SandJ]

For the 45s instead of 90’s:
1.Measure center to center from where your vertical pipe is to where you need to go
2. Multiply that number by 1.414
3. Subtract your fitting allowance(the distance between where the pipe seats into the fitting minus the center of the fitting X 2(because there is a fitting on each side

That’s your perfect pipe length

@goodReefer125 you are awesome! This will save me a lot of time!!!!

 

[Silent]

You need the valve to adjust to match your return pump/s to create a full siphon and keep your system quiet.
This might help you. https://gmacreef.com/herbie-overflow-reef-tank-plumbing-method-basics/

 

[ReefHomieJon]

@goodReefer125 you are awesome! This will save me a lot of time!!!!

Saves on the guess work.
No problem People have been helping me in other areas. That’s y were here. Everybody knows something useful....

 

[Missbillygoat993]

Tank is a 235g. There are 4 holes drilled in the bottom (back left corner). From front of the tank to the back they are:
1” 1 1/2” 1 1/2” 1”

The sump will be directly below the overflow, and the 2 1.5” drain pipes will connect to the sump with slip joints.

So coming out of the tank would be:
*Bulkhead
*Pvc pipe
*Union with valve
*Pvc pipe inserted into slip joint on sump

If I install it this way, how can I remove the piece connecting the union to the sump without removing the entire union, including the valve? Or do I just assume if I ever need to remove that piece, I will have to remove the valve?

I also want to plumb the return line using 45degree fittings instead of 90s, so open to suggestions on that too.

This is the bottom of the tank:

This is the sump...on its side for now:

And here is how it was previously plumbed:

hi, I am in the process of planning my new tank 8ft x2x2.
I am contemplating on where to put the overflow my first tank has an external OB. I wanted one that is bottom drilled/ internal but I was told it would have more issues. Any problems so far?

 

[SandJ]

hi, I am in the process of planning my new tank 8ft x2x2.
I am contemplating on where to put the overflow my first tank has an external OB. I wanted one that is bottom drilled/ internal but I was told it would have more issues. Any problems so far?

Sounds like it will be an awesome tank! And a nice size! I am assuming you are a female by the name and picture...nice to find other women in the hobby.
My biggest problem so far is procrastination lol I have been way too slow at setting this one up. If you search for Mr Saltwater Tank 235 gallon on you tube you can see it when it was set up by him (that was the previous owner).

 

[Missbillygoat993]

Sounds like it will be an awesome tank! And a nice size! I am assuming you are a female by the name and picture...nice to find other women in the hobby.
My biggest problem so far is procrastination lol I have been way too slow at setting this one up. If you search for Mr Saltwater Tank 235 gallon on you tube you can see it when it was set up by him (that was the previous owner).

hi, yup I am female the last time I check hahaha! I am making my cabinet and the tank I will have it done. I just can’t decide about the drain holes if it’s side, peninsula or bottom. One thing is for sure though I want a coast to coast Overflow and I don’t like to see pipes when I walk in my family room.

 

[Vinman]

I have a coast to coast my holes are drilled in the bottom but I wish I would have done Coast to Coast ghost filter with the holes the top back I lost about 6 in of the display tank my display tank is 60 in by 30 by 24 so now my display area is 60 by 24 by 24 the water volume still there but not the space something I'll regret I'm sure down the road this tank is still in my garage put fresh water in it last week to test for leaks I have one slight issue with a bulkhead between my two sumps something to keep in mind you need space in the back of your tank if you run a ghost filter holes in the bottom you can get it closer to the wall