Need help plumbing.

The outside pipe diameter of 1 1/4 would be say 1 1/4. The schedule 80 wall thickness is thicker so it will actually flow less water because the inside diameter should be smaller. The cheap thin wall pipe flows the most water for it's given size than the "better" pipe.
 
Hows this looking???


I am thinking about adding that union on te 1" side for underneath where the ball gate valve is in case i need to remove it. etc.
09-05-30_plumbingconcept.jpg
 
ok, test fitted and didnt fit.

so I did this.
09-05-30_plumingplaced.jpg


this design places overflow and skimmer on the right which I prefer and the eheim on the left side. I figure I need to access my skimmer more than pump.

thoughts?
 
Did you get some PVC cutters? You can trim that up some.

Also, ditch the check valve, they break.... Just drill a siphon hole, it is much simpler and safer.
 
exactly what poseiden said on the check valve. Complete waste in saltwater. Also sorry to say but spa flex never really looks like a clean install unless you run most everything in pvc and then make a few small sweeps with flex. Nice straight and level will make you more happy down the road.
This setup also appears it will be very loud and gurggly or it may sound like a water fall or toilet flushing. To get away from this you want the ends of your pipes under water where they drain into the sump/sock if you are running one but not all the way to the bottom of the sock because water will back up. Then you will need a 90 sticking up placed somewhere on the underside of the tank with a stub sticking up maybe 6 inches or so with a cap on it and a hole drilled in the top like you did the durso. Too big of a hole will be noisy and too small of a hole will create a siphon and make the system flush. I don't have a system plumbed at the moment so i can't take pictures but i will look around for some old ones from my last tank so you get a look at what I am talking about.
 
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some plumbing pointers

just make sure to use a pvc claener as well as the glue (i use the clear cleaner )use a little more glue on the pipe end and just barly coat the fitting end that your glueing into. this way when you push the glued pipe into the fitting you dont get a big glue ball inside the pipe.also invest in some pvc cutters ,it makes cutting the pipe alot easyer ,you will get a nice square cut with them.some times i file down the sharp edge of the cut pipe (thay fit together alot smoother)I also use gate valves when adjusted flow needs to be acomplished.ball valves are terrible at adjusting flow volume and should only be used for on/off aplications.
 
ok Here is my old 265 plumbing. This is what my friends and I strive for. I had a reeflo dart and you could barely here any water running. We did alot of trial and error to figure out what works and what made it quieter. I am sure it has been done before but it was all thought of by us on site tired of the same ol crappy plumbing. I think my buddy tony's tank was the first one we worked on and made like this.

DSCN1691.jpg


DSCN1617.jpg


DSCN1615.jpg


DSCN1612.jpg
 
Did you get some PVC cutters? You can trim that up some.

Also, ditch the check valve, they break.... Just drill a siphon hole, it is much simpler and safer.


Alrrright, EVERYONE is yelling at me about the valve so I am going to pull it off.

I didnt push the PVC together in my pics because its a pita to pull apart so it does get smaller.



Wow rob, Pics ftw! that looks great and helps out!
 
Your welcome. After looking at the pics again they were taken before I did the final trimming. They are too close to the bottom of the sump. 3-4 inches off the bottom is about where they ended up.
As for pvc cement I always use the rain or shine blue. Home depot and lowes both sell it. It gets hotter than the clear and I have never used a cleaner or primmer. If you are working with new pipe and use the rain or shine it just isn't needed. In my experience at least.
 
I took to what rob said and simplified it a bit and made everything straighter.

09-05-31_finalizinglayout.JPG


Nothing is glued yet. still stuck together. going to attach the ball gate to the stud
still need the extension from overflow gate to the bottom of tank.


Line from the left is from pump, "t"d off to go back into the sump to ease flow if neccesary.
 
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Why the 90, then 45.... I would just go with the 90 there.

Also, I am not a fan of the T back into the sump, I have never used one, and feel it is not needed.
 
Why the 90, then 45.... I would just go with the 90 there.

Also, I am not a fan of the T back into the sump, I have never used one, and feel it is not needed.


If I use just the 90 like I originally designed, My skimmer wont fit into the sump :(
 

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