Need Help Replacing a Glass Panel!!

[Robert_Popa_918]

I recently bought a 100 gallon used reef tank as a project build. The tank has a large scratch on the bottom panel of the aquarium. This is because the previous owner had tightened a bulkhead way to much. I’ll be replacing the bottom panel and taking the entire thing apart. So far I’ve run into an issue. No matter how hard I try I just can’t take the bottom trim off the aquarium. I’ve tried taking it apart with box cutters and putty knives but nothing seems to budge. Does anyone have any idea on how to take off the trim without breaking it? I’d also appreciate any advice on disassembling the tank and putting it back together? This is my first time doing this. Thanks- Rob

 

[Ron Reefman]

I've never taken one apart and tried to put it back together. And wouldn't even consider it on a tank with plastic trim. I have built 6 tanks over the years, but all are rimless.

If you don't get any other help offers, I'm willing to try and help.

I did remove the bottom trim off a 180g tank. But it was old and the bottom trim was not structural. The corners were mitered and the plastic was quite flexible. I ended up using a sharpened putty knife and a rubber mallet. It was time consuming. After it was done, I used the tank for 5 years before getting one a bit smaller and brand new.

 

[Robert_Popa_918]

I've never taken one apart and tried to put it back together. And wouldn't even consider it on a tank with plastic trim. I have built 6 tanks over the years, but all are rimless.

If you don't get any other help offers, I'm willing to try and help.

I did remove the bottom trim off a 180g tank. But it was old and the bottom trim was not structural. The corners were mitered and the plastic was quite flexible. I ended up using a sharpened putty knife and a rubber mallet. It was time consuming. After it was done, I used the tank for 5 years before getting one a bit smaller and brand new.

Thank you for the offer! You said you built 6 rimless tanks? The tank I am disassembling, I will eventually use to create a rimless tank. The issue is that my tank is 100 gallons and many people don’t recommend making anything rimless that’s over 20 gallons. I was wondering what do you use in your tank builds to brace the tank and strengthen it so it won’t eventually bust open?

 

[kyleinpdx]

Thank you for the offer! You said you built 6 rimless tanks? The tank I am disassembling, I will eventually use to create a rimless tank. The issue is that my tank is 100 gallons and many people don’t recommend making anything rimless that’s over 20 gallons. I was wondering what do you use in your tank builds to brace the tank and strengthen it so it won’t eventually bust open?

I dont think you will have much success converting a "rimmed" tank of that size to a rimless, its the thickness of the glass that matters, not so much total capacity. Look at WWC, they have a 1200gallon rimless system. I have a 50gal rimless and its made of 12mm glass.

 

[NowGlazeIT]

Before you take it apart could I suggest, lay down another piece of glass inside on top of the bottom. Make it an 1/8th inch shy all the way around. Caulk it in and call it good.
Otherwise to remove that plastic I recommend a putty knife and a heat gun. The heat won’t hurt the glass and will Melt off the glue that’s holding the plastic on.
Making a rimless tank of that size is not recommended because you need the right amount of spacing between panes and the right width of glass to match, for your side panels to hold the water weight. I don’t know those specs, I don’t build tanks professionally but I’ve built some sumps and ATOs that still hold water today. I wouldn’t build my own tank that size without confirming all the specs from some other manufacturers.
I looked for a few videos just now and found one that looks helpful in your situation

 

[Ron Reefman]

Kyle is right. Rimmed tanks are typically (but not always) thinner glass.

My newest tank is rimless. I built it during Nov & Dec of 2019. It's 90g and 36x30x20 made with 3/8" glass. There is a link to my build thread in my signature or just click on the 'Build Thread Contributor' banner to the left.

How thick is the glass on the tank you are taking apart?

Since you'll need a new section anyway, you could have euro braces made to run along the top of the front and back glass, or do a wide center brace with 3/8" glass.

 

[NowGlazeIT]

I noticed in video the guy does not euro brace the bottom. I recommend it for big tanks. Here’s a video of that

 

[sharpimage]

my waterbox 180 is rimless. I think the glass is 3/4" and 24" tall. I also have an 18" tall reef savy rimless. also 3/4" thick glass. It is the height that determines the thickness of glass needed

 

[Robert_Popa_918]

Kyle is right. Rimmed tanks are typically (but not always) thinner glass.

My newest tank is rimless. I built it during Nov & Dec of 2019. It's 90g and 36x30x20 made with 3/8" glass. There is a link to my build thread in my signature or just click on the 'Build Thread Contributor' banner to the left.

How thick is the glass on the tank you are taking apart?

Since you'll need a new section anyway, you could have euro braces made to run along the top of the front and back glass, or do a wide center brace with 3/8" glass.

the glass in my tank is made out of 1/2 inch glass and is just barely over 100 gallons so it’s very similar to yours. I’m definitely want to make some sort of bracing up top because I plan on making a screen top for the aquarium. What I’m worried about is the bottom trim. I guess thats what really strengthens the aquarium since there is no trim on the top. I’m definitely going to take a look at your aquarium. Thanks!

 

[Robert_Popa_918]

Before you take it apart could I suggest, lay down another piece of glass inside on top of the bottom. Make it an 1/8th inch shy all the way around. Caulk it in and call it good.
Otherwise to remove that plastic I recommend a putty knife and a heat gun. The heat won’t hurt the glass and will Melt off the glue that’s holding the plastic on.
Making a rimless tank of that size is not recommended because you need the right amount of spacing between panes and the right width of glass to match, for your side panels to hold the water weight. I don’t know those specs, I don’t build tanks professionally but I’ve built some sumps and ATOs that still hold water today. I wouldn’t build my own tank that size without confirming all the specs from some other manufacturers.
I looked for a few videos just now and found one that looks helpful in your situation

Ive had the same idea about sticking a panel on the inside but it was shot down by tons of reefers. It would be way easier then taking apart the whole aquarium. Along with that, I was going to flex seal the whole outside of that crack. At this point I’m unsure if it’ll work anymore. All I really want is to be able to guarantee that my aquarium will last me three years. After the three years I’m positive that I’ll upgrade to a way larger reef. Does anyone think I can get away with keeping my floors dry for the next 3 years with this kind of easy fix?

 

[kyleinpdx]

the glass in my tank is made out of 1/2 inch glass and is just barely over 100 gallons so it’s very similar to yours. I’m definitely want to make some sort of bracing up top because I plan on making a screen top for the aquarium. What I’m worried about is the bottom trim. I guess thats what really strengthens the aquarium since there is no trim on the top. I’m definitely going to take a look at your aquarium. Thanks!

Really, thats 1/2"? Not doubting you, just didnt look it from the angle. You have some more room to play with then. @NowGlazeIT 's advice is much more practical with that thickness. I would probably do as he suggests with the bottom panel and do a eurobrace top and bottom. You should be pretty solid with the busted panel, the new bottom panel and the bracing. Thats a lot of silicone.

 

[Robert_Popa_918]

Really, thats 1/2"? Not doubting you, just didnt look it from the angle. You have some more room to play with then. @NowGlazeIT 's advice is much more practical with that thickness. I would probably do as he suggests with the bottom panel and do a eurobrace top and bottom. You should be pretty solid with the busted panel, the new bottom panel and the bracing. Thats a lot of silicone.

Haha, yes despite the photo, the glass is extremely thick. It’s about the width of my thumb. So just to fully understand, you’re saying it’s ok to leave the bust panel and just reinforce it with both a bracing and a bottom panel? It would be way easier then stripping the entire tank back to glass sheets and replace the panel. Thanks for the help!

 

[Ron Reefman]

With 1/2" glass, it's possible to make it work.

You have my name, PM if you want.

 

[kyleinpdx]

Haha, yes despite the photo, the glass is extremely thick. It’s about the width of my thumb. So just to fully understand, you’re saying it’s ok to leave the bust panel and just reinforce it with both a bracing and a bottom panel? It would be way easier then stripping the entire tank back to glass sheets and replace the panel. Thanks for the help!

Someone like @NowGlazeIT will have better advice than I, but I have heard of and seen this type of thing done before. The bottom panel is cracked but not missing. It still provides some level of structural integrity, putting another layer of glass over the broken one, bracing it, and being generous with your silicone should keep water from finding its way through the crack and properly supported from underneath it should hold fine.

Now I've never done it, but back in the day we used to do some whack stuff as we didnt have access to 1/10th the equipment we do today. I'm sure someone will come along with some specifics but you'll need to figure out thickness for the new bottom panel, the correct dimensions for the bracing and installation process but I'm much less pessimistic about your chances than I was. Good luck!

 

[Robert_Popa_918]

Someone like @NowGlazeIT will have better advice than I, but I have heard of and seen this type of thing done before. The bottom panel is cracked but not missing. It still provides some level of structural integrity, putting another layer of glass over the broken one, bracing it, and being generous with your silicone should keep water from finding its way through the crack and properly supported from underneath it should hold fine.

Now I've never done it, but back in the day we used to do some whack stuff as we didnt have access to 1/10th the equipment we do today. I'm sure someone will come along with some specifics but you'll need to figure out thickness for the new bottom panel, the correct dimensions for the bracing and installation process but I'm much less pessimistic about your chances than I was. Good luck!

You have brought my confidence up tons! One quick thing though, would it make a difference that the tank’s drilled? The bottom panel has 3 drilled holes. I plan on getting bulkheads, but do you think that may cause an issue?

 

[kyleinpdx]

You have brought my confidence up tons! One quick thing though, would it make a difference that the tank’s drilled? The bottom panel has 3 drilled holes. I plan on getting bulkheads, but do you think that may cause an issue?

Probably not, I'm always skeptical about drilling the bottom of a tank, when your holes are 2" below the water line and something goes wrong, its easy to address, but if something happens with holes on the bottom glass, well gravity is unrelenting and that 100gals has no where else to go but down.

People patch bulkhead holes all of the time (either misdrilled or no longer used) so I wouldnt think it matters in terms of your plan, but since you will HAVE to drill a pane of glass anyway, I might suggest drilling the back panel (make sure its not tempered, perhaps thats why they drilled the bottom to begin with? but that config used to be more popular back in the day) for a quality herbie or bean animal overflow.

 

[notsobigtime]

High E guitar string works well for cutting silicone. Be sure to wear gloves as the wire is very thin. One of the super thin blades from a glass scraper works ok but they are usually very flimsy and can be dangerous. Best of luck!

 

[notsobigtime]

Also, I second the suggestion of drilling the back instead of bottom

 

[Vin vin]

I recently bought a 100 gallon used reef tank as a project build. The tank has a large scratch on the bottom panel of the aquarium. This is because the previous owner had tightened a bulkhead way to much. I’ll be replacing the bottom panel and taking the entire thing apart. So far I’ve run into an issue. No matter how hard I try I just can’t take the bottom trim off the aquarium. I’ve tried taking it apart with box cutters and putty knives but nothing seems to budge. Does anyone have any idea on how to take off the trim without breaking it? I’d also appreciate any advice on disassembling the tank and putting it back together? This is my first time doing this. Thanks- Rob

What did you end up doing man, im stuck with the same situation and mine is a 185g! Where did you buy the replacement pane? Its costing me fortune haha