Need Help With Corals in Newly Acquired Tank

[Burrnt]

Hello all!

I hope you're all doing well. I recently inherited a reef tank from a family member who was having some difficulties with it, and I've always wanted to get started in the hobby so I figured I'd give it a shot. However, I'm encountering some issues with the corals in the tank, and I'm hoping to get some advice/input. I did a 50% water change 3 days ago which seemed to help the hammer (not sure if thats what it is) open up.

Tank Parameters:

• pH: 8.2
• Ammonia: 0
• Nitrite: 0
• Nitrate: 3
• Calcium: 400
• Alkalinity (dkH): 8
• Lighting: Fluval Marine 3.0

I used the API test kit to check these parameters, but I've heard mixed reviews about how accurate the tests are.

The main concern is that the corals in the tank appear to be unhealthy or dying. Are these water parameters within an acceptable range for a reef tank, or should I be looking into other factors? I've read another post talking about how the Nitrates should probably be higher. I've had the tank for about 2 weeks now (tank is 10 months old) and things haven't seemed to be getting better.

 

[Wrassenaround]

What is the current water temp? I had a heater go out and didn't catch it until 2 of my torches started dying off.
What is the size of the tank? Height preferred. I had the same light on a 20 gallon long an never had any settings at 100%

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

This looks like a very young system. It might be difficult to keep some corals healthy/alive. I would try raising your nitrates (feed the fish more) as 3 is VERY low for the type of coral you have. Also test phosphates.

What type of flow does the tank have?

 

[TacticalDumb***]

Your shared parameters are fine but there are a few others that matter. What is your salinity level? Are you using RODI water in the water changes? I’ve seen some people have issues because they weren’t treating the water before hand. If you are using RODI water make sure that the filters in the cartridge are new. I’ve heard cases where the city a poster lives in changed the chlorine they used and it started to get through their RODI filter. And are you sure they’re getting enough flow? I have a few coral that are closed up because they don’t like the flow, so I’m testing different spots. In your case try bringing down the power head. It looks like it is way too high. I have mine up 2/3 of the hight of the tank and 3/4 towards the front. Maybe also get a bigger one cause that one is pretty small compared to the size of the tank, but without any references to the size of the tank and the pump model I can’t 100% recommend it. Also I’m no expert but I think you should have more live rock. You need at least 1ibs per gallon.

 

[Cichlid Dad]

Also what is your magnesium levels. These guys in my experience can be touchy when it comes to mag

 

[Burrnt]

What is the current water temp? I had a heater go out and didn't catch it until 2 of my torches started dying off.
What is the size of the tank? Height preferred. I had the same light on a 20 gallon long an never had any settings at 100%

Thanks for the response!

The temp is 79F and it's a 55 gallon tank, the height is 21''.

 

[Burrnt]

This looks like a very young system. It might be difficult to keep some corals healthy/alive. I would try raising your nitrates (feed the fish more) as 3 is VERY low for the type of coral you have. Also test phosphates.

What type of flow does the tank have?

Thanks for the response!

I'm running 2 pumps across from each other in front of the corals. I'm not sure about the brand but they're both 120V/60Hz 3.3 Watts.

Just tested phosphates and they're at 0ppm

 

[Burrnt]

Your shared parameters are fine but there are a few others that matter. What is your salinity level? Are you using RODI water in the water changes? I’ve seen some people have issues because they weren’t treating the water before hand. If you are using RODI water make sure that the filters in the cartridge are new. I’ve heard cases where the city a poster lives in changed the chlorine they used and it started to get through their RODI filter. And are you sure they’re getting enough flow? I have a few coral that are closed up because they don’t like the flow, so I’m testing different spots. In your case try bringing down the power head. It looks like it is way too high. I have mine up 2/3 of the hight of the tank and 3/4 towards the front. Maybe also get a bigger one cause that one is pretty small compared to the size of the tank, but without any references to the size of the tank and the pump model I can’t 100% recommend it. Also I’m no expert but I think you should have more live rock. You need at least 1ibs per gallon.

Thanks so much for the response and advice!

I'm currently not using RODI water, I just used tap water treated with Prime for the water change because the lfs worker said it would probably be alright. I just lowered the pumps and 2 of the corals already look happier. I'll get more live rock as well.

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

Thanks for the response!

I'm running 2 pumps across from each other in front of the corals. I'm not sure about the brand but they're both 120V/60Hz 3.3 Watts.

Just tested phosphates and they're at 0ppm

Between the phosphates at 0 and the very low nitrates, your coral is starving. Adding more fish food is the easiest way to increase these nutrients.

 

[Burrnt]

Between the phosphates at 0 and the very low nitrates, your coral is starving. Adding more fish food is the easiest way to increase these nutrients.

Alright, I'll start doing that. I figured they weren't getting enough nutrients from other threads I was reading so I started feeding the corals reef-roids 2x/week. Should I continue doing this until the Nitrates come up from the fish food?

 

[KrisReef]

The spectrum of the light seems to only use blue lights at dusk.

The light source may not be suitable for coral, and the blue lights should be putting out light all day perhaps?

Brand and model of light can help evaluate my guesses, and I also recommend checking the no3 and P to prevent the coral from starving in water that is too clean?

A few more pounds of live rock and addition of pods may also improve the ecosystem to support coral growth and happiness.

 

[Mr. Mojo Rising]

Its just me, but when I see empty tanks, I always suggest more rock. Rock provides the surface area for nitrifying bacteria, it provides more space for coral, provides hiding spaces for fish, and provides breeding space for micro-organisms. Not to mention that it provides opportunity for aquascape, its looking kind of sparse in the tank with only 3 small rocks

 

[Burrnt]

Its just me, but when I see empty tanks, I always suggest more rock. Rock provides the surface area for nitrifying bacteria, it provides more space for coral, provides hiding spaces for fish, and provides breeding space for micro-organisms. Not to mention that it provides opportunity for aquascape, its looking kind of sparse in the tank with only 3 small rocks

I totally agree, like I said earlier I'm going to make a run back to my lfs and pick up more live rock asap. Thanks for the advice!

 

[Burrnt]

The spectrum of the light seems to only use blue lights at dusk.

The light source may not be suitable for coral, and the blue lights should be putting out light all day perhaps?

Brand and model of light can help evaluate my guesses, and I also recommend checking the no3 and P to prevent the coral from starving in water that is too clean?

A few more pounds of live rock and addition of pods may also improve the ecosystem to support coral growth and happiness.

Thanks for the response and advice!

The light is a Fluval Marine 3.0

 

[Rick's Reviews]

At a guess you have adjusted aquascape recently as your 'hair algae' is growing in weird places.(especially middle rock)
The green algae/grass looking thing, you can remove this with your fingers and scrub with a toothbrush, suck up large floating with a turkey baster and remove.
I'm clueless about hammer corals care.

If you can reduce white light intensity or reduce hours this will slow down algae growth

 

[KrisReef]

That light may be a bit weak for LPS , and suggest that you check out:

Fluval marine 3.0 lighting settings

I don't understand the sporadic points you guys run, it's to mimic the sun not a disco.. First is my 75g display mixed reef tank, second is my planted freshwater 49gal bowfront, third is my 60 g long cichlid tank

www.reef2reef.com

To adjust your spectrum similar to the one shown in that post.

The light may be a bit weak for LPS, but without a PAR measurement I'm guessing this.
(I searched "Fluval Marine 3.0" in the search feature on here to see what others have experienced.)

Welcome to Reef2Reef!

 

[Burrnt]

At a guess you have adjusted aquascape recently as your 'hair algae' is growing in weird places.(especially middle rock)
The green algae/grass looking thing, you can remove this with your fingers and scrub with a toothbrush, suck up large floating with a turkey baster and remove.
I'm clueless about hammer corals care.

If you can reduce white light intensity or reduce hours this will slow down algae growth

Thanks for the advice! I never thought to use the turkey baster to suck it up so I'll definitely give that a shot.

 

[Burrnt]

That light may be a bit weak for LPS , and suggest that you check out:

Fluval marine 3.0 lighting settings

I don't understand the sporadic points you guys run, it's to mimic the sun not a disco.. First is my 75g display mixed reef tank, second is my planted freshwater 49gal bowfront, third is my 60 g long cichlid tank

www.reef2reef.com

To adjust your spectrum similar to the one shown in that post.

The light may be a bit weak for LPS, but without a PAR measurement I'm guessing this.
(I searched "Fluval Marine 3.0" in the search feature on here to see what others have experienced.)

Welcome to Reef2Reef!

I look into that thread now,

Thanks Kris!

 

[littlefoxx]

Hello all!

I hope you're all doing well. I recently inherited a reef tank from a family member who was having some difficulties with it, and I've always wanted to get started in the hobby so I figured I'd give it a shot. However, I'm encountering some issues with the corals in the tank, and I'm hoping to get some advice/input. I did a 50% water change 3 days ago which seemed to help the hammer (not sure if thats what it is) open up.

Tank Parameters:

• pH: 8.2
• Ammonia: 0
• Nitrite: 0
• Nitrate: 3
• Calcium: 400
• Alkalinity (dkH): 8
• Lighting: Fluval Marine 3.0

I used the API test kit to check these parameters, but I've heard mixed reviews about how accurate the tests are.

The main concern is that the corals in the tank appear to be unhealthy or dying. Are these water parameters within an acceptable range for a reef tank, or should I be looking into other factors? I've read another post talking about how the Nitrates should probably be higher. I've had the tank for about 2 weeks now (tank is 10 months old) and things haven't seemed to be getting better.

Did you use any of the previous water or is it all newly mixed saltwater?

 

[Burrnt]

Did you use any of the previous water or is it all newly mixed saltwater?

I used half of the previous water