Need Help with Hair Algae!

I tried the fluconazle and it was a total waste of time imo. Didnt even get rid of 20% of it. I’ve installed a wiper on my octopus skimmer. Started skimming wetter, installed a clearwater cw-300 algae scrubber which is rated for 325 gallons onto my 220 gallon tank. My rock is almost completely covered in this mess. Tommrow i plan on removing my rock and pouring 3% hydrogen peroxide over the rock and soaking each rock in 3% peroxide for 3-4 mins then rinsing in clean salt water then reinstalling back into the tank.
 
I'd be careful of the peroxide soak. That will most likely kill all the bacteria and other living things in the rock. If you can remove the rock, remove it and scrub it with a stiff brush and rinse off with clean salt water. Then plan on doing it a few times.
 
By ANY chance, Is your tank at or near a window?? Direct and indirect light from outside, even on a cloudy day will cause this. Blinds do little filtering in such situation.
 
By ANY chance, Is your tank at or near a window?? Direct and indirect light from outside, even on a cloudy day will cause this. Blinds do little filtering in such situation.
Do you feel that is a problem with a reef tank? I've always associated it with FOWLR's and fresh water systems. I know several reef tanks that are lit with natural light that don't have algae issues.
 
By ANY chance, Is your tank at or near a window?? Direct and indirect light from outside, even on a cloudy day will cause this. Blinds do little filtering in such situation.
Its around 14’ from the nearest window. Doubt that is the problem. Ive already reduced my light schedule to 6hrs of actinics only. Halides dont come on anymore till this issue is resolved.
 
I'm still thinking that before I put in a lot of effort trying to clean it manually I would add a Dolabella Sea Hare. If they do die, they are one Sea Hare that won't nuke your tank. Incredible algae eaters.

If I was unable to go that route, I would use Vibrant by UWC. In fact, that is the route I have gone. I love the stuff but I do understand why some people don't want to add unknown bacteria products to their systems.
 
Do you feel that is a problem with a reef tank? I've always associated it with FOWLR's and fresh water systems. I know several reef tanks that are lit with natural light that don't have algae issues.
When I had my pet store, and this issue was addressed by my marine customers, Of a couple of dozen persons, only one had it in the basement, the rest were near or across from a window. Its not the light but the UV's that caused the issue.
I had them black out side of the tank glass with black paper for 2-3 weeks as a test and the issue began to diminish. Additionally light and organics support algae
 
When I had my pet store, and this issue was addressed by my marine customers, Of a couple of dozen persons, only one had it in the basement, the rest were near or across from a window. Its not the light but the UV's that caused the issue.
I had them black out side of the tank glass with black paper for 2-3 weeks as a test and the issue began to diminish. Additionally light and organics support algae
Interesting. It may not be the UV though. Normal windows should block over 80% of the UV lighting. It is something to think about though and may have more to do with wavelengths above 300nm.
 
I deffinetly have light bleeding into my tank. Only on one side though. If the light were the culprit wouldn't I have algae mainly there. The darkest corner of my ta k has just as much algae.
 
I deffinetly have light bleeding into my tank. Only on one side though. If the light were the culprit wouldn't I have algae mainly there. The darkest corner of my ta k has just as much algae.
Likely supported by your tank lights
 
I had a problem with hair algae when I first set up my system. Since I'm not comfortable with the chemical treatments I got a Sea Hare. In a matter of days the problem was solved. Once your algae is gone, return him to your LFS or pass him on to someone else who has an algae problem as they do need the algae to survive. And they will bulldoze anything that isn't permanently placed. They are quite ugly but they do an excellent job quickly. There are several kinds but I had a Dolabella Sea Hare like the one in the picture. The problem with scrubbing with a toothbrush is if done in tank, it spreads.

marine-life-611.jpg
 
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Hey guys,

I like hijacking a good thread, so here I am

I had a bad outbreak too of GHA. My nitrates and my phosphates were too high and it went from this (11th June):

Screenshot_20180802-084223_Gallery.jpg Screenshot_20180802-084228_Gallery.jpg Screenshot_20180802-084249_Gallery.jpg

To this (yesterday):

20180801_150945.jpg 20180801_151002.jpg 20180801_150833.jpg

So last night I spent 6 hours after work absolutely killing myself. I did a 40% water change (208L), removed and cleaned every coral, and removed and scrubbed every single rock. Over the next few days I will be cleaning my pumps and skimmer regularly to rid any excess hair that has go caught up in the system, but as of 1am this morning, the tank was put back together (albeit the rocks were in a different set up and the coral are currently not glued down anywhere at the moment!), and there was hardly any GHA left. I will post a pic over the next few days with the new look of the tank. But for now I will just leave you with this....

20180801_233913.jpg
 
If you have tangs in your tank you shouldn't have any hair algae in the main display. My thoughts are the tang is being overfed and is not interested in the algae. I know you said you have reduced feeding but regal tangs tend to out compete the other fish for the food and they still stay full while the others starve.

Since I got a yellow tang I have had zero issues with algae in my main display. Yellow tangs are more specialised at getting to the algae (mouth shape vs regal tang shows this) and tend to graze more through out the day than regal tangs. Also it doesn't look like you have many snails. I aim for about 1 snail per 5-10 gallons of water.
 
Hey guys,

I like hijacking a good thread, so here I am

I had a bad outbreak too of GHA. My nitrates and my phosphates were too high and it went from this (11th June):

Screenshot_20180802-084223_Gallery.jpg Screenshot_20180802-084228_Gallery.jpg Screenshot_20180802-084249_Gallery.jpg

To this (yesterday):

20180801_150945.jpg 20180801_151002.jpg 20180801_150833.jpg

So last night I spent 6 hours after work absolutely killing myself. I did a 40% water change (208L), removed and cleaned every coral, and removed and scrubbed every single rock. Over the next few days I will be cleaning my pumps and skimmer regularly to rid any excess hair that has go caught up in the system, but as of 1am this morning, the tank was put back together (albeit the rocks were in a different set up and the coral are currently not glued down anywhere at the moment!), and there was hardly any GHA left. I will post a pic over the next few days with the new look of the tank. But for now I will just leave you with this....

20180801_233913.jpg
Lets hope you didnt kill all the beneficial bacteria in the live rock when scrubbing them as you may have a bigger issue coming your way.
 
Hey guys,

I like hijacking a good thread, so here I am

I had a bad outbreak too of GHA. My nitrates and my phosphates were too high and it went from this (11th June):

Screenshot_20180802-084223_Gallery.jpg Screenshot_20180802-084228_Gallery.jpg Screenshot_20180802-084249_Gallery.jpg

To this (yesterday):

20180801_150945.jpg 20180801_151002.jpg 20180801_150833.jpg

So last night I spent 6 hours after work absolutely killing myself. I did a 40% water change (208L), removed and cleaned every coral, and removed and scrubbed every single rock. Over the next few days I will be cleaning my pumps and skimmer regularly to rid any excess hair that has go caught up in the system, but as of 1am this morning, the tank was put back together (albeit the rocks were in a different set up and the coral are currently not glued down anywhere at the moment!), and there was hardly any GHA left. I will post a pic over the next few days with the new look of the tank. But for now I will just leave you with this....

20180801_233913.jpg
I hate to tell you this, but I don't think that was GHA you scrubbed off. That looks like the type of Bryopsis that I was dealing with. GHA tends to be very uneven in length and pulls off in a stringy manner. This type of Bryopsis grows in tight uniform height clumps, is very hard to remove, and easily spreads if you get a piece off but don't get it out of the tank.
 
In no way does peroxide any way we want to apply it affect tank filtration bacteria. Search for the peroxide example threads some are nine yrs running

That at least helps to free up options, I'm watching this thread to see how alt approaches are ran, I'd do something totally different here involving three brute containers and you accessing that rock in the air, while it's still in the tank


Ideally we wouldn't cast the scrubbed off parts around inside the tank by scrubbing while full, we drain for reasons of not doing that. The right procedure for your tank has medical order of ops action steps in order to export and kill, so the results are diff than current results


your rocks are removable they're not locked by coral, and the coral can sit in the air half an hour easy but you could spray it and keep it out four hours if needed

am aware that's too much work for most in a tank that big, but it would still fix your condition last month and the less work alternatives aren't shining yet.


accessing that algae in the air would change your entire outcome, so the work is worth it and you can prove it using a small model before you do the work if youll consider the works thread below

If by page 7 here algae still grows back, it won't after the brute and peroxide trick. Our method is hardly ever used intitially due to the partial work required in the 3/4 tank drain, but you're resolved enough to scrub (minus the kill step, important) and this is rare. The correct peroxide method isn't about peroxide it's the pre removal step that accomplishes more


You are applying the effort, but leaving the root. You have localized patches ripe for rasping. Toothbrushing is mowing for growback. Rasping is my grandma digging up dandelions with a butterknife four inches down under the root, dedication and deliberate moves

partiality and hesitation from bacterial concern is happening, we have a thread of opposites w pics

The fact you'd brush over and over is rare, most won't expent two calories effort vs something dumped in the water, nice trait of dedication all you need is a little change up

Try to envision your aquarium being ran through this thread and not responding like the others:

https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/reef2reef-pest-algae-challenge-thread-hydrogen-peroxide.187042/

For sure it would respond.


Option one: buy things, change water params, wait and hope and indeed these could work


Option two, mini modeling already displays growback science, then the tank is drained or rock removed as needed and algae exported and leftovers and roots killed this time, tank is made algae free without hesitation. All the steps from option one are -then- applied on the clean condition tank and your reefing approach changes forever

Reef tank algae invasions are caused by the keepers approach, not a tank imbalance in the majority of cases says big work threads. Every other algae control method exposes your whole tank, nontargets, to the change and then we hope and wait, corals bleach etc


The peroxide method is never about dosing peroxide into your tank, it is a mini modeled systemic approach first, you know it works ahead of time, and exposes nontargets to zero risk, again it's pre modeled before you begin so it always works. The dedication you displayed in multiple toothbrushings means this method will factually work for you. If it's doesn't work, the pre model will show it and we never wasted your time.


Once a tank is cycled, nothing undoes that cycle from physical actions we might take. Extreme sustained heat and cold, meds (not peroxide even up to 35% strength) and true drying are the three actions that can undo a cycle, no others past that have been demonstrated.
 
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Dan


your system as well would work great since you have already cut back most mass

I'm amazed at the willingness to work in this thread

most other algae threads are presented full on nonharvest hasn't been hand guided ever. If you guys would add a kill step and rasp to dislodge roots and anchors, gold



Every method listed in this thread so far is a growback prevention step and not a kill export step...though at times they'll starve out algae eventually, usually with more purchases somewhere along the way

the ordering of operations changes the outcome bigtime....apply preventative steps like gfo, ats, carbon dosing, vibrant, no pox, grazers, fish et al only to the clean condition tank after target has been killed not just brushed (if growback requires them) not when you can see the invader in the tank (the purposeful farming portion of invasion science)
 
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I have a 25 gallon fuge lit with a mars hydra led. The cheato2 used to grow like mad. Now it doesn't grow at all. Just floats around and is all dark green. No new growth. It stopped growing when the hair took over.

What is your iodine like? Macro algae needs iodine to thrive and hair algae less so. You might have arrested growth on macro algae due to a trace being low so the macro can’t compete with the hair algae for PO4 and NO3.

Another thing to try is siphon some water from where the hair algae grows. Sometimes you can have 0 readings for NO3 PO4 in the water column but high localised levels where detritus settles. If some of your rockwork is in low flow then poo will settle and create a nutrient hotspot.
 
By any chance sre you using pukani rock? I have read several different sources that say pukani has been know to leech phos if not bleeched and acid bathed and then cured for several weeks or even months. This would explain alot.
 

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