need help with my lights

STEVEN ADAMS

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Hi all I recently got a established 35 gal tank used from a guy. It came with Orbit Marine LED. it has 4 preset modes currently the one I am using is 8 hours or 100 percent power light. I need help figuring out how bright the lights need to be. The remote allows you to control blue and white light separately from 0-100. the current cycle is 100 percent I believe. anyone know about this light? how bright should I have it? my corals are hammer, button polyps, frogspawn, blue mushrooms, sun coral, kenya tree and some green zoas.
 
Blue 100% white %50 is what I used to use
 
Blue 100% white %50 is what I used to use
is that like peak day or just all the time or what? I know on my planted tank the lights comeo n then they shut off. seems like everyone has sunrise and sunset in their reef tanks and all kinds of stuff going on with the lights.
 
is that like peak day or just all the time or what? I know on my planted tank the lights comeo n then they shut off. seems like everyone has sunrise and sunset in their reef tanks and all kinds of stuff going on with the lights.

If I remember the was a ramp up and ramp down on the light, and yes that would be at peak.
 
If I remember the was a ramp up and ramp down on the light, and yes that would be at peak.
so higher than 50 percent white would be too much you think? currently its at 100 some of my corraline is turning white which I think might be from light shock.
 
Hi all I recently got a established 35 gal tank used from a guy. It came with Orbit Marine LED. it has 4 preset modes currently the one I am using is 8 hours or 100 percent power light. I need help figuring out how bright the lights need to be. The remote allows you to control blue and white light separately from 0-100. the current cycle is 100 percent I believe. anyone know about this light? how bright should I have it? my corals are hammer, button polyps, frogspawn, blue mushrooms, sun coral, kenya tree and some green zoas.

Ideally you keep the lights (and coral placement) the same as they were since it was already established.

Keep an eye that nutrients don't bottom out or get close to zero....particularly PO4. Zero = Bad :)

Are you seeing any signs of stress or just trying to stay on top of things?
 
I replaced my light. I found and this is my opinion, that the Orbit Marine light is a good light for a fish only system. Then new loop light from what I understand are much better suited for reef systems.
 
Ideally you keep the lights (and coral placement) the same as they were since it was already established.

Keep an eye that nutrients don't bottom out or get close to zero....particularly PO4. Zero = Bad :)

Are you seeing any signs of stress or just trying to stay on top of things?
well I have corraline algae turning white which many are saying is possibly just from the move. Idk what the previous light schedule was from the other owner so thats why I am asking. I have just had it on for two weeks 10 hour cycle with sunrise and sunset and white and blue are peak at 100 percent. I thought phosphate should always be close to zero because algae. my phosphate is 0 and nitrate as high as 5 in the last few days since I tested before water change. I am having lots of brown algae growing too.
 
Idk what the previous light schedule was from the other owner so thats why I am asking.

It should have kept the previous config when you plugged it in, shouldn't it? The schedule you have seems fine.

Zero PO4 (anything under 0.017, potentially) can be a really serious problem.

For best results, don't take it lower than 0.03 ppm (even higher could be better), and dont forget to consider the accuracy of your test kit in that number....the level in the water can actually be less than testing indicates.
 
I need help figuring out how bright the lights need to be.

I neglected to suggest getting a light meter, btw. That way you can measure your levels.

You can download a lux meter app to get started, but get a $10-20 handheld lux meter like the LX-1010B I use ordered – much better.

BTW, which Orbit Marine do you have – plain, IC or Pro?

And how tall is your tank?
 
I neglected to suggest getting a light meter, btw. That way you can measure your levels.

You can download a lux meter app to get started, but get a $10-20 handheld lux meter like the LX-1010B I use ordered – much better.

BTW, which Orbit Marine do you have – plain, IC or Pro?

And how tall is your tank?
I will look into lux meter. As far as I can tell my light must be the plain. It doesnt say pro anywhere on it.
 
I neglected to suggest getting a light meter, btw. That way you can measure your levels.

You can download a lux meter app to get started, but get a $10-20 handheld lux meter like the LX-1010B I use ordered – much better.

BTW, which Orbit Marine do you have – plain, IC or Pro?

And how tall is your tank?
Tank is 21" tall 18" from sand to surface.
 
It should have kept the previous config when you plugged it in, shouldn't it? The schedule you have seems fine.

Zero PO4 (anything under 0.017, potentially) can be a really serious problem.

For best results, don't take it lower than 0.03 ppm (even higher could be better), and dont forget to consider the accuracy of your test kit in that number....the level in the water can actually be less than testing indicates.
so 0 phosphate is bad? what is the highest it should get? my phosphate test only reads .25 the next lowest is 0 on the color chart. how do you measure such a small amount of phosphate?
 
Hi all I recently got a established 35 gal tank used from a guy. It came with Orbit Marine LED. it has 4 preset modes currently the one I am using is 8 hours or 100 percent power light. I need help figuring out how bright the lights need to be. The remote allows you to control blue and white light separately from 0-100. the current cycle is 100 percent I believe. anyone know about this light? how bright should I have it? my corals are hammer, button polyps, frogspawn, blue mushrooms, sun coral, kenya tree and some green zoas.
For the love of god get rid of that light. Long run its not worth it
 
Hello,

There are several several marine orbit lights, I run or have ran all of them. If you have the orbit marine pros, then I would do 100 on blues and 60 on whites orbit should be preset #4 which is coral acclimation. The new ic loop lights are good, but depends which version you have. If you compare to the original orbit marines, yes they are better, if you compare them to the orbit marine pros then the marine pros are still the higher end light, then the new ic lights.

In order of best to worse it would be orbit marine pro, orbit marine ic then orbit marine, then current satellite. Yet, depending on the size of your tank, which version will dictate which model you should use. I have had amazing success with the marine pros, and the ic lights are not terrible as long as your not using them with lots of sps coral and any tank larger than a 125 or 24 inches and 18 wide. Even then 24 inches is pushing the light, on the ic pros. The orbit marine pros can go much deeper because they have a 60 degree lens, instead of a 90 degree lens. The orbit marine s version one, I think anything above a 75 gallon is really pushing your luck. They just don’t have the spectrum or power to give what certain corals need, unless they are placed high, and are low light.

If you have a pic of the remote, and or light that would better help me tell you preset to use, and or how to set it up better.

Sarah

@Zeal
You stated “For the love of god get rid of that light. Long run its not worth it”

What is the reason for this, and what experience do you have? Are you aware that most full size local aquariums for the public prefer these lights? In my research and studing with about 8 different major aquariums, they had more of these lights than any other led light. If they are so terrible why would local aquariums is them? I’m just curious as to how you came to your conclusion, yet at the same time, you show no support as why you say get rid of them? (Please note, I’m not saying you can’t have your view or your opinion, I’m just curious as to why, (plus maybe the op would like to know as well).
 
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I agree with zeal get some thing better I've never used an orbit but I doubt it's that good.
 
Hello,

There are several several marine orbit lights, I run or have ran all of them. If you have the orbit marine pros, then I would do 100 on blues and 60 on whites orbit should be preset #4 which is coral acclimation. The new ic loop lights are good, but depends which version you have. If you compare to the original orbit marines, yes they are better, if you compare them to the orbit marine pros then the marine pros are still the higher end light, then the new ic lights.

In order of best to worse it would be orbit marine pro, orbit marine ic then orbit marine, then current satellite. Yet, depending on the size of your tank, which version will dictate which model you should use. I have had amazing success with the marine pros, and the ic lights are not terrible as long as your not using them with lots of sps coral and any tank larger than a 125 or 24 inches and 18 wide. Even then 24 inches is pushing the light, on the ic pros. The orbit marine pros can go much deeper because they have a 60 degree lens, instead of a 90 degree lens. The orbit marine s version one, I think anything above a 75 gallon is really pushing your luck. They just don’t have the spectrum or power to give what certain corals need, unless they are placed high, and are low light.

If you have a pic of the remote, and or light that would better help me tell you preset to use, and or how to set it up better.

Sarah

@Zeal
You stated “For the love of god get rid of that light. Long run its not worth it”

What is the reason for this, and what experience do you have? Are you aware that most full size local aquariums for the public prefer these lights? In my research and studing with about 8 different major aquariums, they had more of these lights than any other led light. If they are so terrible why would local aquariums is them? I’m just curious as to how you came to your conclusion, yet at the same time, you show no support as why you say get rid of them? (Please note, I’m not saying you can’t have your view or your opinion, I’m just curious as to why, (plus maybe the op would like to know as well).

20180419_192847.jpeg


20180419_192823.jpeg
 

Hello,

Okay so these are the original orbit pros version one. I would suggest using preset 2 or 4. For the coral, and tank this light is more than plenty to do what you need. (I will say the coral you have ((mostly lps, and softies low light)). If you move to a deeper or bigger tank, or sps coral, then you should consider one of currents newer lights. For a beginner, this light is more than sufficient. Aquariums still use this light on their smaller tanks that are primarily softies, and lower light corals.

If you obtain some corals that need medium light you will need to place them higher up in the tank. Please keep in mind that yes this is a lower powered light, but it’s still strong enough to bleach corals. Is this the best light no, will it work yes. I’d suggest maybe finding a tank that fits the length of the light as well. I wish you luck and fun with your new hobby.
 

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