Need help with RODI system

[kaijor]

Hello,

I'm looking for a better RODI system because my current RODI isn't cutting it. Currently, the water of RODI is about 30 PPM on TDS meter. From what I read, with DI (my RODI has this) it should be 0 PPM once the water goes through the entire system. I was curious if someone could help me identify a better RODI system.

The current RODI system I'm using:
Here are some pictures of the water quality of the tap in my area:

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

 

[LeftyReefer]

What is the TDS of your tap water?
What is the TDS coming out of the RO membrane?
What is the TDS coming out of the DI? 30?

when is the last time you changed DI resin and/or the RO membrane or any of the pre-filters? (carbon and sediment filters)

Your RO membrane should be rejecting around 98% of TDS if it is functioning correctly. Your DI resin should remove the last few TDS, unless it's exhausted.

 

[Airwolf]

I would be concerned with your water department reporting chloramines, typically systems need to be 'designed' for this, which typically means at least two carbon stages. Passing chloramines through may be part of your issue...

If you look at any of the popular suppliers or RODI systems they will have systems recommended for chloramines.

BulkReefSupply and Buckeyehydro to name a couple.

 

[kaijor]

What is the TDS of your tap water?
160
What is the TDS coming out of the RO membrane?
I'll get this info in just a few.
What is the TDS coming out of the DI? 30?
21

when is the last time you changed DI resin and/or the RO membrane or any of the pre-filters? (carbon and sediment filters)
2 months ago

Your RO membrane should be rejecting around 98% of TDS if it is functioning correctly. Your DI resin should remove the last few TDS, unless it's exhausted.

 

[LeftyReefer]

it looks like your city water has chloramines, which do not play nice with RO membranes and can cause them to fail prematurely. if your RO membrane fails, then the DI resin ends up getting depleted very fast too.

It sounds like you may need to add some chloramine filters to your setup, pre RO membrane.
and you may or may not need to replace your RO membrane too, and definitely your DI resin.

its up to you whether you want to put the money into replacement filters/membranes for your current system, or replace the whole thing with a bigger/better unit.

 

[kaijor]

it looks like your city water has chloramines, which do not play nice with RO membranes and can cause them to fail prematurely. if your RO membrane fails, then the DI resin ends up getting depleted very fast too.

It sounds like you may need to add some chloramine filters to your setup, pre RO membrane.
and you may or may not need to replace your RO membrane too, and definitely your DI resin.

its up to you whether you want to put the money into replacement filters/membranes for your current system, or replace the whole thing with a bigger/better unit.

Yeah, I think I might just replace the unit and get something specifically for Chloramine.

 

[ZombieEngineer]

You're only getting 81% rejection right now. A few things could be causing this.

1. If you got hot water on the membrane, that can cause adhesive failures and make it terribly ineffective.

2. Chloramines are getting through the membrane. To fix this requires a 2 stage carbon filter before the membrane with carbon filters specifically designed for chloramines.

 

[kaijor]

Would something like this make more sense?

5 Stage Premium 75 GPD RO/DI System

.brs-layout { max-width: 1400px; margin: 20px auto 0; padding: 10px 0 30px; } .brs-section { margin-bottom: 34px; } .brs-section h2 { margin: 0 0 16px; font-size: 28px; line-height: 1.2; } .brs-card { border: 1px solid rgba(0,0,0,0.10); border-radius: 16px; background...

www.bulkreefsupply.com

 

[Airwolf]

Would something like this make more sense?

5 Stage Premium 75 GPD RO/DI System

.brs-layout { max-width: 1400px; margin: 20px auto 0; padding: 10px 0 30px; } .brs-section { margin-bottom: 34px; } .brs-section h2 { margin: 0 0 16px; font-size: 28px; line-height: 1.2; } .brs-card { border: 1px solid rgba(0,0,0,0.10); border-radius: 16px; background...

www.bulkreefsupply.com

That is very close the system that I have, only difference is I went for the "plus" version.

I think that system would work much better than what you are currently using....

 

[ZombieEngineer]

Would something like this make more sense?

5 Stage Premium 75 GPD RO/DI System

.brs-layout { max-width: 1400px; margin: 20px auto 0; padding: 10px 0 30px; } .brs-section { margin-bottom: 34px; } .brs-section h2 { margin: 0 0 16px; font-size: 28px; line-height: 1.2; } .brs-card { border: 1px solid rgba(0,0,0,0.10); border-radius: 16px; background...

www.bulkreefsupply.com

Yes, but make sure to also get the auto shutoff too. Otherwise when your reservoir is full, the unit will still pump 800 gallons a day into your drain until you personally turn it off.

The plus version is also nice since the pressure Guage and tds meter are nice haves.

 

[kaijor]

That is very close the system that I have, only difference is I went for the "plus" version.

I think that system would work much better than what you are currently using....

Could you link the version that you use?

 

[ZombieEngineer]

Could you link the version that you use?

5 Stage Premium Plus 75 GPD RO/DI System

Makes up to 75 Gallons of RODI Water Per Day! BRS 5 Stage Systems are our most popular systems and are great for a majority of wells, along with city water that is treated with chlorine, or small amounts of chloramines. The single Color Changing DI stage comes on its own bracket allowing you to...

www.bulkreefsupply.com

Plus this

Auto Shut Off Kit for Reverse Osmosis Systems

All Bulk Reef Supply RODI units come pre-installed with an Auto Shut Off Valve and check elbow. If you wish to add a float valve to your BRS RODI system, just purchase a float valve separately and connect it to your product water line. Standard Float Valve Adjustable Float Valve Auto shut off...

www.bulkreefsupply.com

 

[Airwolf]

The one ZombieEngineer linked is the one I got. I did not get the autoshut off kit. I set timers on my phone. I have only flooded the basement once. :Shrugs:

I did have to get a boost pump for mine as well, due to my city water pressure being below forty. But if you have good city water pressure, that is not needed.

Water pressure can play a role in the 'quality' of water you are getting too, but in your case, I would deal with the chloramines first.

 

[ZombieEngineer]

I did not get the autoshut off kit. I set timers on my phone. I have only flooded the basement once. :Shrugs:

That's what I did too until I accidentally left the flush valve running for 3 days one month and the following month left the RODI running for 2 weeks straight.

Those two mistakes cost me 26,000 gallons of water and $300. The auto shutoff and solenoids paid for themselves the moment I installed them. (I also have an auto flush system setup too with my apex).

 

[kaijor]

The one ZombieEngineer linked is the one I got. I did not get the autoshut off kit. I set timers on my phone. I have only flooded the basement once. :Shrugs:

I did have to get a boost pump for mine as well, due to my city water pressure being below forty. But if you have good city water pressure, that is not needed.

Water pressure can play a role in the 'quality' of water you are getting too, but in your case, I would deal with the chloramines first.

Oh good to know! Btw, how do you find your city's water pressure?

 

[ZombieEngineer]

Oh good to know! Btw, how do you find your city's water pressure?

It's your house water pressure you need to know not the city. If you get the plus model, it has a pressure Guage when you hook up.

If you want to know before you buy anything you can use one of these on your garden hose spigot https://www.lowes.com/pd/Watts-Wate...TG_0O5zbVTcrSvp4syhoC95gQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

[kaijor]

That's what I did too until I accidentally left the flush valve running for 3 days one month and the following month left the RODI running for 2 weeks straight.

Those two mistakes cost me 26,000 gallons of water and $300. The auto shutoff and solenoids paid for themselves the moment I installed them. (I also have an auto flush system setup too with my apex).

The thing about the Auto shut off valve (I got one today actually) is that you have to create a hole in the bucket for it. I'm still trying to figure out how I'm going to do that.

 

[ZombieEngineer]

The thing about the Auto shut off valve (I got one today actually) is that you have to create a hole in the bucket for it. I'm still trying to figure out how I'm going to do that.

With a drill bit

 

[Airwolf]

It's your house water pressure you need to know not the city. If you get the plus model, it has a pressure Guage when you hook up.

If you want to know before you buy anything you can use one of these on your garden hose spigot https://www.lowes.com/pd/Watts-Wate...TG_0O5zbVTcrSvp4syhoC95gQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

ZombieEngineer is quick on the draw today! Couldn't have said it better myself.

The thing about the Auto shut off valve (I got one today actually) is that you have to create a hole in the bucket for it. I'm still trying to figure out how I'm going to do that.

Yeah I am one more flooding of the basement away from the wife demanding I do something different. This time came very close to her book collection, which I often reference when cost of fish are brought up.

 

[LeftyReefer]

The thing about the Auto shut off valve (I got one today actually) is that you have to create a hole in the bucket for it. I'm still trying to figure out how I'm going to do that.

They also make magnetic mount float kits.
magnetic mount float kit

mount with a magnet, instead of drilling into your container.
Added bonus of being able to be moved from container to container easily too.