Need help with sump

[lviva003]

Hello,

I finally decided to get rid of my canister filter that I've had for two years running and replace it with a sump. I have a 36 gallon reef tank that has been running for two years. Since this tank was my very first saltwater tank, all of my current equipment are HOB. I decided to buy the Deluxe CPR overflow (CS90) from BRS and the sicca 3.5 return pump. I have never set up a sump so I am extremely nervous with the installation. I was wondering if anybody here could help me and point me to the right direction. These are some of the questions I have:

1. Will the sump provide additional benefits even though my tank has been fine for two years?
2. How big of a sump should I get? 10, 15, or a 20 gallon?
3. Should I DIY my sump or buy one like the Emerald sump 26 from trigger systems?
4. If DIY is better, where do I start? I really like the emerald sump, but is so dang expensive!
5. I see everyone's tank with PVC pipe, do I have to get PVC pipe for my sump and if so which one?
6. I've seen also valves that enables people to control the flow rate, Can I still use one of those valves to control the overflow rate?
7. should I make my sump into a refugium or just live it as a regular sump?
8. Do I need to clean the sump weekly like my canister filter?
9. when I do water changes, Do I take water from the sump or the main tank?
10. How much water do I add so the sump and the display tank is balance?

any help will be highly appreciated!

Thanks!

 

[cloak]

Check these out.

http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2008-01/newbie/index.php

http://www.reefkeeping.com/issues/2003-01/gt/index.php

HTH.

 

[Lenny_S]

I'll give it a go...
1. 2 main benefits, creates a place to hide gear, adds volume to the system which helps with stability. (36 gal tank plus 30 gal in the sump gives you a 66 gal system)
2. The biggest sump you can fit. Remember it will only be between 1/2 and 2/3 full of water. So a 20 gallon capacity container would only have 10-15 gallons of water in it.
3. If you're handy build one, if you're all thumbs then buy one.
4. If you build your sump start wit a used glass or acrylic tank that is the biggest that will fit in the stand or otherwise be hidden. Used tanks are all over the place and stores like Petco run $1 per gallon tank sales a few times a year.
5. PVC pipe or "hard plumbed" is nice, but unnecessary. In fact, especially for the return, flexible hose will absorb/deaden vibration from the pump and run quieter.
6. Sure, you can use valves in either case.
7. I'm a big fan of refugiums, but it will make the sump more complicated and aren't necessary if you use other ways for nutrient export and bio diversity. Sounds like you've been fine for 2 years without one.
8. Depending on what mechanical/pre-filtering you put in place, you may never need to clean the sump.
9. Either is fine, but if you vac detritus then you'd want to incorporate that processes wit the water change. I.e main tank.
10. Not sure what you are asking here. But basically the overflow/drain will match pace with the return pump. What you want to test is when you shut the return off, how much water siphons into the sump from the tank. Unlike a canister filter, you want to skim the water from your tank no more than 1/2-3/4 inch below the surface. Likewise, you don't want your return more than that same amount below the surface. The lower those things are the more water will siphon out of your tank and into your sump if there was ever a power outage or pump failure. That's why the first test you want to do after it's setup is power off the return pump and be ready to power that sucker back up right quick. Otherwise you are sure to have a flood on your hands.

Hope I helped.

 

[DurocShark]

My answers fit Lenny_S's.

I'm running a CPR on my 70 as well. Doesn't flow as much as I would like, but works very well. Especially if you stick an Aqualifter on there.

 

[cloak]

Just out of curiosity, being that your tank has already been set up for 2 years without a sump, how does everything look?

 

[lviva003]

Just out of curiosity, being that your tank has already been set up for 2 years without a sump, how does everything look?

Thanks everyone!. My tank has been running fine. I have several rainbow chalices among other chalices and they are doing great. Zoas are thriving. The only thing that I cant seemed to keep are SPS. I also have a bubble algae problem, but overall its been good. I also have a high bioload so thats why I want to get a sump.

 

[lviva003]

I'll give it a go...
1. 2 main benefits, creates a place to hide gear, adds volume to the system which helps with stability. (36 gal tank plus 30 gal in the sump gives you a 66 gal system)
2. The biggest sump you can fit. Remember it will only be between 1/2 and 2/3 full of water. So a 20 gallon capacity container would only have 10-15 gallons of water in it.
3. If you're handy build one, if you're all thumbs then buy one.
4. If you build your sump start wit a used glass or acrylic tank that is the biggest that will fit in the stand or otherwise be hidden. Used tanks are all over the place and stores like Petco run $1 per gallon tank sales a few times a year.
5. PVC pipe or "hard plumbed" is nice, but unnecessary. In fact, especially for the return, flexible hose will absorb/deaden vibration from the pump and run quieter.
6. Sure, you can use valves in either case.
7. I'm a big fan of refugiums, but it will make the sump more complicated and aren't necessary if you use other ways for nutrient export and bio diversity. Sounds like you've been fine for 2 years without one.
8. Depending on what mechanical/pre-filtering you put in place, you may never need to clean the sump.
9. Either is fine, but if you vac detritus then you'd want to incorporate that processes wit the water change. I.e main tank.
10. Not sure what you are asking here. But basically the overflow/drain will match pace with the return pump. What you want to test is when you shut the return off, how much water siphons into the sump from the tank. Unlike a canister filter, you want to skim the water from your tank no more than 1/2-3/4 inch below the surface. Likewise, you don't want your return more than that same amount below the surface. The lower those things are the more water will siphon out of your tank and into your sump if there was ever a power outage or pump failure. That's why the first test you want to do after it's setup is power off the return pump and be ready to power that sucker back up right quick. Otherwise you are sure to have a flood on your hands.

Hope I helped.

wow. thank you very much. I will deff get a pre-made sump. I started looking at videos on youtube and they seem easy to attempt, but I got a feeling its going to be a PITA. lol so you recommend that I get a clear hose for the intake and return?

 

[Lenny_S]

wow. thank you very much. I will deff get a pre-made sump. I started looking at videos on youtube and they seem easy to attempt, but I got a feeling its going to be a PITA. lol so you recommend that I get a clear hose for the intake and return?

I use pretty much all hose line with the exception of a manifold for water control and distribution to reactors etc...
My primary return pump is connected to the manifold with a 1" braided silicon hose. Silicon is really great at absorbing all the vibration from the pump.

I use quick disconnects with stops for all the reactors etc because it allows me to quickly and easily pull them out, clean them, and reload media. No muss no fuss and no spills.