Need Ideas - Mounting option to raise T5 Fixture

reefstacks · Jul 14, 2016

Hey guys, I recently bought a Deep Blue Solarmax HO 2 bulb T5 fixture to compliment my Hydra 52HD LED. The standard way to mount this fixture is flush with the top of the tank, and I would like to raise it up to be near the height of my Hydra. Any ideas? Fo you think the Coralife mounting legs would work for this? I am fine with DIY or off the shelf solutions, and it doesn't necessarily need to be super pretty, but I really don't want to hang it until I move out of this apartment in a couple months.... thanks!

reefstacks · Jul 15, 2016

No feedback? Just need a little direction!

revhtree · Jul 15, 2016

You can buy some metal wire conduit bend it with a pipe bender, paint it, and mount it to the back of your stand. Then hang your lights from that. If I can do it, anyone can do it! Cost about $50 and most of the cost was from the pipe bender.

revhtree · Jul 15, 2016

revhtree · Jul 15, 2016

This was a temporary fix for me. Works great!

reefstacks · Jul 22, 2016

revhtree said:
This was a temporary fix for me. Works great!

You're the man, that's exactly what I'm looking for! I'll have to put up some pictures after I get it done

Thanks a lot!

reefstacks · Jul 22, 2016

What kind of screws did you use for mounting? Curious if you used machine screws with a nut on the end or sheet metal screws that just thread right into the stand.

revhtree said:

revhtree · Jul 22, 2016

reefstacks said:
What kind of screws did you use for mounting? Curious if you used machine screws with a nut on the end or sheet metal screws that just thread right into the stand.

I just used a wood screw!

reefstacks · Jul 22, 2016

Ahh nice, the revered third option lol. Thanks again man!

Smite · Jul 22, 2016

Just a heads up. I grabbed the pipe bender and a level and bent my conduit right there in HD!
I bend pipe all day at work so if you need a tip let me know.

When I did my pipe hangars I used 1/2". I bought some stainless machine eye bolts and nuts.

reefstacks · Jul 23, 2016

Smite said:
Just a heads up. I grabbed the pipe bender and a level and bent my conduit right there in HD!
I bend pipe all day at work so if you need a tip let me know.

When I did my pipe hangars I used 1/2". I bought some stainless machine eye bolts and nuts.

Hahaha that's awesome, I stopped today for the supplies and wish I would have tried that! Not like anyone is paying attention anyways. I really don't like doing this kind of stuff, but I might have to return the bender after I make my 2 bends. I can't imagine using it again for a loooonng time, if ever, and it ended up being at least half of the total amount I had to spend on everything.

I went with 1/2" as well. I did just realize that the one thing I did not get was something to fill the gap between the lip of the stand and where I plan to attach the two hole straps. Shouldn't be a big deal though, I can probably just cut some extra pieces of 2x4 to the required width. I'm definitely open to any suggestions, I'm a fast learner on DIY projects, but I'm not exactly full of experience.

reefstacks · Jul 23, 2016

See what I mean?

Smite · Jul 23, 2016

I think you have the right idea.

A few things i ran into on my first attempt:

If using a hanging kit like revhtree, set the height of your 90s high enough easily maintain your display.

You are working with a tight space (tank to wall) and a full tank. I'd cut 2 12" pieces of 2x2 or 2x4 so you can get 2 straps on each conduit. Id plan to have my pieces of wood bottom out against the bottom of that lip on the stand, getting the top 2 - 2 hole straps as high as possible.

I'd then find my height for the conduit (90 degree bends) off the rim of the tank. Then measure the rim of the tank to the top strap. From there (adding the two measurements together) I'd pre-assemble the conduits to the wood mounts with the 4 - 2 hole straps. That will allow you to sink screws from the inside of your stand to the wood mounts. If you decide you want to go a different route or change heights you'll be able to remove it easily. Stainless screws or a dab of silicon of the head of the screw. *I'm paranoid about rust

I'd also put a small wood mount with a 2 hole strap per conduit behind the back of the tank (glass) to eliminate bowing and swaying while working on the fixture/tank.

reefstacks · Jul 23, 2016

Smite said:
I think you have the right idea.

A few things i ran into on my first attempt:

If using a hanging kit like revhtree, set the height of your 90s high enough easily maintain your display.

You are working with a tight space (tank to wall) and a full tank. I'd cut 2 12" pieces of 2x2 or 2x4 so you can get 2 straps on each conduit. Id plan to have my pieces of wood bottom out against the bottom of that lip on the stand, getting the top 2 - 2 hole straps as high as possible.

I'd then find my height for the conduit (90 degree bends) off the rim of the tank. Then measure the rim of the tank to the top strap. From there (adding the two measurements together) I'd pre-assemble the conduits to the wood mounts with the 4 - 2 hole straps. That will allow you to sink screws from the inside of your stand to the wood mounts. If you decide you want to go a different route or change heights you'll be able to remove it easily. Stainless screws or a dab of silicon of the head of the screw. *I'm paranoid about rust

I'd also put a small wood mount with a 2 hole strap per conduit behind the back of the tank (glass) to eliminate bowing and swaying while working on the fixture/tank.

Man, that's some great input! It will definitely save me from a couple of otherwise inevitable do-overs

I am actually planning on resting the T5 fixture right on top of the conduit, as the will save me the trouble of having to go the extra mile to rig together a hanging kit for it.

Due to the limited space behind the tank & stand as you mentioned, I was planning to drill through the stand from the front side and use S/S machine screws with lock nuts to attach the straps (2 for each piece, same as you suggested, and I also like to play it safe with stainless since it's in a salt water environment). However, with the realization that I need to use some kind of wooden spacer to clear the stand lip, I will most likely go with wood screws to pre attach the conduit and straps and then other wood screws to go from the stand into the 2x4.

I believe I understand what you are suggesting for behind the glass section. Use another piece of wood to sit on TOP of the lip in picture, behind the glass, with a strap attachment at well. I will take your advice on that if necessary, but that being said, I was planningto space out the straps on the conduit and bring the conduit almast all the way to the floor. What are your thoughts, is another block right behind the glass going to do much unless I I mountt hem poorly in the first place

reefstacks · Jul 23, 2016

Smite said:
I think you have the right idea.

A few things i ran into on my first attempt:

If using a hanging kit like revhtree, set the height of your 90s high enough easily maintain your display.

You are working with a tight space (tank to wall) and a full tank. I'd cut 2 12" pieces of 2x2 or 2x4 so you can get 2 straps on each conduit. Id plan to have my pieces of wood bottom out against the bottom of that lip on the stand, getting the top 2 - 2 hole straps as high as possible.

I'd then find my height for the conduit (90 degree bends) off the rim of the tank. Then measure the rim of the tank to the top strap. From there (adding the two measurements together) I'd pre-assemble the conduits to the wood mounts with the 4 - 2 hole straps. That will allow you to sink screws from the inside of your stand to the wood mounts. If you decide you want to go a different route or change heights you'll be able to remove it easily. Stainless screws or a dab of silicon of the head of the screw. *I'm paranoid about rust

I'd also put a small wood mount with a 2 hole strap per conduit behind the back of the tank (glass) to eliminate bowing and swaying while working on the fixture/tank.

Man great advice, thanks so much for the help. It will definitely help me to avoid a do-overs or two lol.

Ill actually be setting the fixture on top of the conduit rather than hanging like Rev did, at least for now, but I'll keep the conduit as long as possible in casei need to raise or lower it in the future.

Good call on the way you suggested to attach the straps and the 2x4s, much easier than what I was concocting to work within the tight space lol. And I'll definitely be sticking with stainless with it being so close to saltwater.

I'm not sure if I understand quite whatyou mean about the wood mount behind the glass...can you dumb that down for me at all?

Thanks again, huge help brother. Both you and Rev.

Smite · Jul 23, 2016

No problem glad I could help.

From looking at the pic you posted, the back of your stand and back glass of your tank look like they line up pretty well. I mounted a shim up higher behind the back of my tank to make sure the conduit couldnt come in contact with the glass if I bumped it during maintenance. I just mounted it to the conduit with a 2 hole strap and let it rest against the back of the tank.

I had a much heavier mh/t5 combo at the time, you may not need it.