So i got a 75 GPD "Plus" system from BRS and i hooked it all up correctly. It comes with a dual TDS, Pressure gauge, dual DI and auto shut off. I turned the water on for the first time to let it run before i use the RO water. The instructions say that the water pressure should be a least 50 psi. I have the incomming water line hooked up to my sink using a hose adaptor and the sink is all the way on. My gauge says its at 82 psi.. Is that OK? Also it doesnt look like both DI canisters are completely filling up with water.. Should they?? The way i have the dual TDS hook up is to messure TDS going into the DI and exiting the DI. The TDS entering is only 13... Is this what it should be?? Thx
Need ro/di help!!
- Thread starter Xler8n
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Hopefully BRS told you how to properly flush the system completely before use. Each filter needs to be flushed before you run water to the next so you eliminate any glues or binders from the prefilter, fines or dust from the DI, preservatives from the RO membrane and storage solutions from the DI resins. For some reason lots of vendors neglect to tell customers these very important steps and it can make a big difference in component life. Lots of new inexperienced vendors I suppose.
Always remove all filters except the RO membrane if it is already installed and flush each filter individually starting with the prefilter. Disconnect the 1/4" line leading from the carbon block up to the RO membrane and flush to waste at this point. Once the prefilter is flushed install the carbon block and flush it, if you have two carbons (which are unnecessary in most cases) flush the first one before installing the second one. Next, reinstall the 1/4" line to the RO membrane and flush 3 to 5 gallons to waste using your TDS meter as a guide before installing the fisrt DI cartridge. Flush at least 2 or 3 canister volumes thriough the DI before installing the second DI and you are readyt to make water.
Follow this process every time you install new filter cartridges and make sure you disinfect the system with bleach every 6 months again following their instructions if they provided them.
The only way to know if an RO only TDS of 13 is good or bad is by knowing your tap water TDS. The RO only TDS should be 96-98% less than the tap water TDS. At 13 I would assume your tap water TDS is in the 300 to 500 range but thats only a guess with a properly working RO membrane that is broken in. Thats why I hate inline TDS meters, they only measure two points and you really need three points to trouble shoot your RO/DI system, tap water TDS, RO only TDS and final RO/DI TDS. I have two of the dual inlines but rarely use them, I rely on my COM-100 handheld for accuracy.
82 psi is great. Higher pressures make membranes perform better not only with higher GPD but also better water quality or lower TDS. If you have colder water higher pressure will offset the reduced production cold water causes. Never ever try to adjust water temperature with a faucet, cold water only. Blending hot and cold or tempering is the quickest way to ruin a membrane there is.
DI canisters usually do not fill all the way, its no big deal. The water actually passes up through the middle cartidge so it may not appear hardly at all on the outside. As a little experiment try raising your treated water line up in your hands, you will see the level rise then fall as you lower the tube down to fill a bucket. There is no pressure on the DI so this is normal and does not affect water quality.
Always remove all filters except the RO membrane if it is already installed and flush each filter individually starting with the prefilter. Disconnect the 1/4" line leading from the carbon block up to the RO membrane and flush to waste at this point. Once the prefilter is flushed install the carbon block and flush it, if you have two carbons (which are unnecessary in most cases) flush the first one before installing the second one. Next, reinstall the 1/4" line to the RO membrane and flush 3 to 5 gallons to waste using your TDS meter as a guide before installing the fisrt DI cartridge. Flush at least 2 or 3 canister volumes thriough the DI before installing the second DI and you are readyt to make water.
Follow this process every time you install new filter cartridges and make sure you disinfect the system with bleach every 6 months again following their instructions if they provided them.
The only way to know if an RO only TDS of 13 is good or bad is by knowing your tap water TDS. The RO only TDS should be 96-98% less than the tap water TDS. At 13 I would assume your tap water TDS is in the 300 to 500 range but thats only a guess with a properly working RO membrane that is broken in. Thats why I hate inline TDS meters, they only measure two points and you really need three points to trouble shoot your RO/DI system, tap water TDS, RO only TDS and final RO/DI TDS. I have two of the dual inlines but rarely use them, I rely on my COM-100 handheld for accuracy.
82 psi is great. Higher pressures make membranes perform better not only with higher GPD but also better water quality or lower TDS. If you have colder water higher pressure will offset the reduced production cold water causes. Never ever try to adjust water temperature with a faucet, cold water only. Blending hot and cold or tempering is the quickest way to ruin a membrane there is.
DI canisters usually do not fill all the way, its no big deal. The water actually passes up through the middle cartidge so it may not appear hardly at all on the outside. As a little experiment try raising your treated water line up in your hands, you will see the level rise then fall as you lower the tube down to fill a bucket. There is no pressure on the DI so this is normal and does not affect water quality.
Rukis
unregistered
I run an RO/DI system with a booster pump and I run about 150PSI, 82PSI (mine was around 62PSI) is great for just your main water line pressure, but I would recommended a booster pump to pump it up to 140-150PSI. The higher pressure you run the better clean/waste water ratio you get. I get 1:1 (1gallon RO/DI water to 1gallon waste water)
Actually a little more RO/DI water than waste!! I tested it. My system actually backflushes for 15 seconds every 2 hours or after each use, its great! Keep the membranes clean so they last longer.
Check out my system: VERTEX AQUARISTIK
Actually a little more RO/DI water than waste!! I tested it. My system actually backflushes for 15 seconds every 2 hours or after each use, its great! Keep the membranes clean so they last longer.
Check out my system: VERTEX AQUARISTIK
xrayrider
Active Member
I would also add that 75 gallons a day RO membrane is good, but a 50 gallon a day membrade is better. The faster the membrane allows water to pass through, the lower the rejection rate, or the higher the TDS left in the water. If the 150 gallon per day upgrade kit is just a new membrane, it will lower your water quality. I use a 50 gallon a day membrane, and a 45 gallon rubbermaid trash can to catch and store it in, with a float valve to turn it off when full. I have never had a problem with not being able to produce enough water for my needs. We drink it as well. Even after a 10% water change on my 125 + 60 sump, and on my 45 with 20 gallon sump, I still have enough left too fill the 5 gallon jug we drink from. Takes about a day to completely refill.
A 50 GPD membrane is not better than a 75 GPD membrane. With Dow Filmtec, 25, 50 and 75 GPD membranes have the same 96-98% rejection rate, its only the Dow Filmtec 100 GPD that is horrible at only 90% rejection. With Applied Membranes and GE Water tall their membranes are rated 96-98% rejection rate inclusing the 100 GPD but their production rate (GPD) is measured different than Dow Filmtec. Dow says it takes 50 psi to produce the rated GPD while the others say 65 psi. So in the case of a Dow 75 GPD at 50 psi, you lay the graph over a GE 100 GPD and you see they are almost identical, 75 GPD at 50 psi, 90 GPD at 60 psi and 100 GPD at 65 psi.
The main membrane to avoid is the Dow filmtec 100 GPD which is not intended as a drinking water membrane in the USA, it was designed and is approved for "Pool and Spa Use" by the ANSI/NSF.
The main membrane to avoid is the Dow filmtec 100 GPD which is not intended as a drinking water membrane in the USA, it was designed and is approved for "Pool and Spa Use" by the ANSI/NSF.
