Mr.Rocc
Valuable Member
I've had this wwc blueberry fields acro for about a year now. It just started having this weird reaction. The acro is still growing but the white flesh is also getting larger. Any opinions on what it is and how to solve it.
Need some blueberry advice.
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Mr.Rocc
Valuable Member
Can you get a photo without so much blue.
I cannot tell if that is leading-edge new growth, or tissue necrosis. I am leaning towards tissue necrosis, but I reserve the right to change my mind.
If it is necrosis, then everybody will want to know your parameters and lighting to try and help.
I cannot tell if that is leading-edge new growth, or tissue necrosis. I am leaning towards tissue necrosis, but I reserve the right to change my mind.
If it is necrosis, then everybody will want to know your parameters and lighting to try and help.
BoomCorals
2500 Club Member
Need a pic with more normal lighting. Try using whites only on your radions to take the pic.
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Mr.Rocc
Valuable Member
BoomCorals
2500 Club Member
Perfect thank you.
Definitely tissue necrosis. Most common causes for loss like that is light issues, alk swing, or no nutrients. What are you using for nutrient export? GFO? Carbon dosing?
Definitely tissue necrosis. Most common causes for loss like that is light issues, alk swing, or no nutrients. What are you using for nutrient export? GFO? Carbon dosing?
BoomCorals
2500 Club Member
Not much you can do other than keep it stable. I would stop the gfo and carbon for now. I would look into something like an ATS or refugium for nutrient export instead.
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Mr.Rocc
Valuable Member
Can I frag it or cut off the bad part? It hasn't receeded any more for a few weeks
You should not really be using organic carbon or GFO unless you have a acute need and can monitor it very closely - while low N and P are no issue (even though people make them out to be) chasing them down to near-zero can be a huge issue. I would stop both.
The rest of this looks like LED tissue burn. I would turn the Radions down - 70% is pretty high for most acropora. LED can burn/harm coral at PAR levels that other lights do not harm corals at.
In all actuality, it is probably a combo of both things... like it always is.
I would not frag it. If the tissue necrosis is still happening, then the frag can die too. If it has stopped, then let it recover.
The rest of this looks like LED tissue burn. I would turn the Radions down - 70% is pretty high for most acropora. LED can burn/harm coral at PAR levels that other lights do not harm corals at.
In all actuality, it is probably a combo of both things... like it always is.
I would not frag it. If the tissue necrosis is still happening, then the frag can die too. If it has stopped, then let it recover.
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Mr.Rocc
Valuable Member
Scorpius
2500 Club Member
No need for additives. Just remove gfo and carbon. Reduce lighting intensity and feed your fish and give things time.
The less stuff you add the more successful you'll be over time. Adding stuff creates more instability and points for failure. Keep it super simple.
The less stuff you add the more successful you'll be over time. Adding stuff creates more instability and points for failure. Keep it super simple.
I am with Scorpius... no need to dose anything. Just feed the fish and use natural methods of nutrient removal.
Natural N and P control down to detectable levels is OK - they always leave some to drive the equilibrium and there is always some available to the corals (ocean does this). N and P control with chemicals and media can be dangerous since you can scavenge all from the system and leave none for any of the organisms... this can be effective as long as you never go too low, but a lot of people do.
Natural N and P control down to detectable levels is OK - they always leave some to drive the equilibrium and there is always some available to the corals (ocean does this). N and P control with chemicals and media can be dangerous since you can scavenge all from the system and leave none for any of the organisms... this can be effective as long as you never go too low, but a lot of people do.
FWIW
Check your PAR levels
Blueberry Fields is a low PAR Acro.
I had mine in moderate (200 par) lighting and it always looked bleached out.
A while back I saw a video from Mr Saltwater Tank with someone from WWC. The subject, as best I recall, was concerning some of the Acros they'd recommend. One of them was the Blueberry Fields which they said was a low light Acro.
Put mine in low light (actually on the glass) and it's been fine ever since.
