Need to move 125gal
- Thread starter TankLife86
- Start date
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Retro Reefer
Slow and steady wins the race!
When I move a tank I just bag everything up like when you get it from your LFS and put them in large coolers, the rock can be put in buckets, before disturbing anything I syphon about 1/2 of the water out into clean containers to reuse in tank when setting it back up.. I would toss the sand and whatever water is left in the tank once it has been cleared of rock and livestock.
sbash
Valuable Member
How much time do you have to plan this out?
First considerations:
You will need separate tubs for fish, loose coral, encrusted coral and live rock. If you have corals on plugs, a piece of egg crate at the bottom of one of the bins/tubs could be very useful. Or you could make a grid out of egg crate to help them from mashing into each other during the drive (this would lower breakage).
This is going to be a long day, make sure you have a pot of coffee at the source and a case of beer at the destination
Here we go:
It also may not be practical to haul all that water, so if you can have enough water in reserve at the destination in advance, it might be easier.
There are other considerations to do after, like making new saltwater asap. A water change in a couple days may be in order; the corals will likely slime up and could release bio-warefare into the tank. Carbon might also be wise to run for a couple days. I would also wait a day or two before turning the lights back on.
Nice AT-AT, btw!
First considerations:
- You need a vehicle. A minivan would work quite well for this much livestock. The tank might fit in a van, but you may need a truck.
- The tank and hardware can easily be transported dry, so I am not going to bother talking about them much.
- Sand/substrate; are you going to keep your existing, or buy new?
- Containers for moving livestock - get more than you will need (you may be able to return the unused containers). The last think you want is to not have enough on moving day.
- Get some air bubblers. You may not be able to use your original tank until the next day, due to the substrate dust. So the easiest way around this is to just add bubblers (and maybe heaters) to tubs until the next morning.
- Get a strong utility pump (mag 9 would be my choice) and a garden hose long enough to go from the tank to the vehicle. On this note, get a few spring clamps too...
- Helpers to move the tank.
- Buckets, you will probably need a few. These will be useful for moving the hardware and such.
- Encrusted colonies will likely break off the rock during transit
- Time of year, and the heat/cold weather outside.
- You are going to lose water, so make sure you have extra (i.e. fresh saltwater) on hand.
You will need separate tubs for fish, loose coral, encrusted coral and live rock. If you have corals on plugs, a piece of egg crate at the bottom of one of the bins/tubs could be very useful. Or you could make a grid out of egg crate to help them from mashing into each other during the drive (this would lower breakage).
This is going to be a long day, make sure you have a pot of coffee at the source and a case of beer at the destination
Here we go:
- Rinse all your tubs/bins before use. Rinse the pump and rinse out the hose.
- Run the hose from your tank to your moving vehicle.
- Connect the utility pump and put it inside the tank - use spring clamp to hold in place.
- Shut down the system, it's go time!
- Put the first tub into the vehicle and use another spring clamp to hold the other end of the hose. Note, a second person and an open window between you will be very useful here. I have done it alone before, but it is a lot of back and forth. Watch the pump side more, you don't want to suck anything up that is alive.
- Fill the tub about 2/3, the put another tub down and repeat. Partially fill a few tubs (depending on the vehicle and how well you can reach them).
- By this point, you should have figure out which bins are for what. Plan on the last bin to be for fish, as they will be the last thing you catch (aside from a few snails and crabs). As the water level drops in the main tank, start pulling out rocks and corals in whatever way makes the most sense. Ideally you want to keep the water as clear as possible throughout this process; both for the fishes well being and visibility.
- Carry on until you have filled your bins and caught your fish.
- Once you have the water drained to the sand level, check for snails and crabs and whatever other sand critters you may have.
- Scoop the sand into a bucket or two (I find a dustpan works well for this).
- Pack everything else into the moving vehicle(s?) and hit the road. Just driving around should be enough splish-splashing to keep the oxygen at acceptable levels.
- Once you are at your destination, set the main tank back up. Don't worry about the sump until near the end.
- Get some bubblers into the tubs with livestock.
- Rinse your sand (this may be controversial, but these are generic instructions so they may not apply to every situation to the T). Whether new substrate or your existing, rinsing the sand will keep the dust down and flush out any potential toxins.
- Add the sand - either add the sand before or after you add the bulk of the water back. I have always done it first, but I'm not sure it will matter.
- Hook the hose and utility pump back up - in reverse.
- You could add your freshly made saltwater at this point, or afterwards. I would do it first, just so there is clean water in the tank right away.
- Start adding water back. Draining the water tubs first, then the liverock tubs, then the livestock tubs.
- Add the liverock back as the tubs drain.
- Depending on how well the substrate settles, you may or may not want to hold off until morning to add the livestock. I usually wait.
- If you are waiting, the tubs I linked to are perfectly fine holding tanks for a couple days. Just make sure you have a bubbler running in them and add a heater if needed. Just drain the water low enough to carry them indoors and not get you soaked in the process, add enough water back to make everything comfortable.
- Set the rest of the tank up accordingly.
It also may not be practical to haul all that water, so if you can have enough water in reserve at the destination in advance, it might be easier.
There are other considerations to do after, like making new saltwater asap. A water change in a couple days may be in order; the corals will likely slime up and could release bio-warefare into the tank. Carbon might also be wise to run for a couple days. I would also wait a day or two before turning the lights back on.
Nice AT-AT, btw!
OP
OP
TankLife86
Well-Known Member
Man thank you so much for all the advice on moving the tank! I'll take everything in consideration and take pics once my adventure is over and everything settles! Thanx again!How much time do you have to plan this out?
First considerations:
Once you have planned out your vehicle and purchased your moving tubs (I use these ones: https://www.rona.ca/en/storage-box-...g7nxq26nkwpVtGRQmkQhl_2Nt3ndvWbBoCs-MQAvD_BwE I imagine they are sold everywhere. They are low cost and very durable - unlike the clear bins which tend to crack easily).
- You need a vehicle. A minivan would work quite well for this much livestock. The tank might fit in a van, but you may need a truck.
- The tank and hardware can easily be transported dry, so I am not going to bother talking about them much.
- Sand/substrate; are you going to keep your existing, or buy new?
- Containers for moving livestock - get more than you will need (you may be able to return the unused containers). The last think you want is to not have enough on moving day.
- Get some air bubblers. You may not be able to use your original tank until the next day, due to the substrate dust. So the easiest way around this is to just add bubblers (and maybe heaters) to tubs until the next morning.
- Get a strong utility pump (mag 9 would be my choice) and a garden hose long enough to go from the tank to the vehicle. On this note, get a few spring clamps too...
- Helpers to move the tank.
- Buckets, you will probably need a few. These will be useful for moving the hardware and such.
- Encrusted colonies will likely break off the rock during transit
- Time of year, and the heat/cold weather outside.
- You are going to lose water, so make sure you have extra (i.e. fresh saltwater) on hand.
You will need separate tubs for fish, loose coral, encrusted coral and live rock. If you have corals on plugs, a piece of egg crate at the bottom of one of the bins/tubs could be very useful. Or you could make a grid out of egg crate to help them from mashing into each other during the drive (this would lower breakage).
This is going to be a long day, make sure you have a pot of coffee at the source and a case of beer at the destination
Here we go:
This is the basics of moving a tank! Do your planning and read up on your substrate options and you will do fine. If I missed anything critical, please chime in!
- Rinse all your tubs/bins before use. Rinse the pump and rinse out the hose.
- Run the hose from your tank to your moving vehicle.
- Connect the utility pump and put it inside the tank - use spring clamp to hold in place.
- Shut down the system, it's go time!
- Put the first tub into the vehicle and use another spring clamp to hold the other end of the hose. Note, a second person and an open window between you will be very useful here. I have done it alone before, but it is a lot of back and forth. Watch the pump side more, you don't want to suck anything up that is alive.
- Fill the tub about 2/3, the put another tub down and repeat. Partially fill a few tubs (depending on the vehicle and how well you can reach them).
- By this point, you should have figure out which bins are for what. Plan on the last bin to be for fish, as they will be the last thing you catch (aside from a few snails and crabs). As the water level drops in the main tank, start pulling out rocks and corals in whatever way makes the most sense. Ideally you want to keep the water as clear as possible throughout this process; both for the fishes well being and visibility.
- Carry on until you have filled your bins and caught your fish.
- Once you have the water drained to the sand level, check for snails and crabs and whatever other sand critters you may have.
- Scoop the sand into a bucket or two (I find a dustpan works well for this).
- Pack everything else into the moving vehicle(s?) and hit the road. Just driving around should be enough splish-splashing to keep the oxygen at acceptable levels.
- Once you are at your destination, set the main tank back up. Don't worry about the sump until near the end.
- Get some bubblers into the tubs with livestock.
- Rinse your sand (this may be controversial, but these are generic instructions so they may not apply to every situation to the T). Whether new substrate or your existing, rinsing the sand will keep the dust down and flush out any potential toxins.
- Add the sand - either add the sand before or after you add the bulk of the water back. I have always done it first, but I'm not sure it will matter.
- Hook the hose and utility pump back up - in reverse.
- You could add your freshly made saltwater at this point, or afterwards. I would do it first, just so there is clean water in the tank right away.
- Start adding water back. Draining the water tubs first, then the liverock tubs, then the livestock tubs.
- Add the liverock back as the tubs drain.
- Depending on how well the substrate settles, you may or may not want to hold off until morning to add the livestock. I usually wait.
- If you are waiting, the tubs I linked to are perfectly fine holding tanks for a couple days. Just make sure you have a bubbler running in them and add a heater if needed. Just drain the water low enough to carry them indoors and not get you soaked in the process, add enough water back to make everything comfortable.
- Set the rest of the tank up accordingly.
It also may not be practical to haul all that water, so if you can have enough water in reserve at the destination in advance, it might be easier.
There are other considerations to do after, like making new saltwater asap. A water change in a couple days may be in order; the corals will likely slime up and could release bio-warefare into the tank. Carbon might also be wise to run for a couple days. I would also wait a day or two before turning the lights back on.
Nice AT-AT, btw!
Captain Quint
Plank Owner of the Orca
Excellent procedure sbash and much like one I use. Great safe important info for the OP for sure.
_________________________
My method generally for upsizing or downsizing to a new tank also works well in moving situation and combined with yours would be awesome as well:
*Have new tank ready to transfer all from existing tank. Ie; RO Vinegar wipe down inside tank, RODI fresh rinsed carbon or whatever media you will use in your new filter.
***If using the same equipment such as power heads, heater, filter...it would be good to clean them in RO Vinegar water to get rid of junk... algae, Aiptasia, etc. Then just RO rinse and they are good. Place the equipment in new tank where you want it to be.
*Have new RO Saltwater ready and temp at the same degree range as the existing tank... Simple to do by having it in covered container(s) with a heater in it. ***Make sure the salinity and pH are the same as your existing water in 'old tank'. Always try to have a little more of both RODI Saltwater as well as RODI fresh if adjustments need to be made for volume and/or SG tweaking.
*Have several containers; 5 gallon buckets, Rubber Made trash cans or some kind of clean tubs on hand. Amount of containers will vary according to how much volume you are going to store.
*Remove LR from existing tank and place into the bucket(s), tub(s) and put existing water into the containers with a pitcher, or use a pump with flex hose to fill. Again, depends on what size you are doing as to the fastest way possible.
*Remove water to fill the bucket about with about X amount of gallons of established water and place critters in containers covering with egg crate, cardboard, anything non-toxic so no jumpers or any critter gets out. If you're not going to an extremely large tank I don't believe it will not be necessary to keep a heater in the container(s) as it will not take all that long to do it. You can keep an air stone in the bucket with critters or just stir the water if this 'switch' runs longer than an hour or so. If big project, have heater if necessary and circulation pump.
*Remove remainder of water to bucket/container leaving about X amount gallons of established water in tank with existing sand.
*Stir, stir and stir the existing tank sand which will turn almost black from debris, nitrates, phosphates and all the bad junk which would create a crash if you just moved the sand 'as is' like some do to another tank without bringing the bad stuff to the water instead.
*Start dipping/removing the bad water from old tank to a 'waste' container as you will be tossing this water. You will lose a few pods but your critters will be fine. While doing this stir some more, push the sand to the side of tank allowing the water to drain from sand and have more area to dip the remainder of bad water out...continue until you have the bad water out.
*Dip/scoop the sand out with something like a large plastic drinking glass and pour off whatever water is at the top of the cup. Have a container to hold your LS. It will be fine for the little time it's going to take you to switch tanks...if it's going to be an all-day project it is wise to have water atop the sand with mild circulation.
*Hard part is done and now the fun and rewarding part...This will go quick.
*In the tank you will be putting them in, add around 50% or so of NEW RODI Saltwater, does not need to be exact, but close. Put in LR, add sand with the cup you used to remove the sand from the old tank and slowly submerge it to new rank pouring it around in the tank around the LR. If you are adding more LS, it would be fine to put in at any point either with your existing sand, before or after it does not matter. It would also be wise to add a double dose of 'Prime' or whatever product you utilize to ZERO out any bad juju remaining.
*Add the remainder of established water you have contained to new tank slowly. Should have very little cloudiness and 'sandstorm'. At this point I admit, I use some Stability by Seachem. In your new tank would add caps of it according to directions...it will mix in with no issues. Probably not necessary but this is what I have always done with success.
*Add NEW RODI Saltwaterer to tank to capacity. ***I do not have power on yet as to not stir anything around as it's already got plenty of oxygen in it from adding the water.
*Remove critters however you normally do and place in new tank. If you have an anemone it would be good to place it where you like. ***Do not use the gallons of water from this container as it will be full of NH 3 at this point...simply dispose of it.
*Turn power on and make sure power heads, filter, etc are working.
*******What you have done is essentially is a good cleaning as far as all is concerned by using established everything removing the bad gunk from an old tank at some point and ~50% water change. Your critters will be happy in a clean, bigger, or different home with no ill side effects.
Enjoy the new, yet established home. ;
_________________________
My method generally for upsizing or downsizing to a new tank also works well in moving situation and combined with yours would be awesome as well:
*Have new tank ready to transfer all from existing tank. Ie; RO Vinegar wipe down inside tank, RODI fresh rinsed carbon or whatever media you will use in your new filter.
***If using the same equipment such as power heads, heater, filter...it would be good to clean them in RO Vinegar water to get rid of junk... algae, Aiptasia, etc. Then just RO rinse and they are good. Place the equipment in new tank where you want it to be.
*Have new RO Saltwater ready and temp at the same degree range as the existing tank... Simple to do by having it in covered container(s) with a heater in it. ***Make sure the salinity and pH are the same as your existing water in 'old tank'. Always try to have a little more of both RODI Saltwater as well as RODI fresh if adjustments need to be made for volume and/or SG tweaking.
*Have several containers; 5 gallon buckets, Rubber Made trash cans or some kind of clean tubs on hand. Amount of containers will vary according to how much volume you are going to store.
*Remove LR from existing tank and place into the bucket(s), tub(s) and put existing water into the containers with a pitcher, or use a pump with flex hose to fill. Again, depends on what size you are doing as to the fastest way possible.
*Remove water to fill the bucket about with about X amount of gallons of established water and place critters in containers covering with egg crate, cardboard, anything non-toxic so no jumpers or any critter gets out. If you're not going to an extremely large tank I don't believe it will not be necessary to keep a heater in the container(s) as it will not take all that long to do it. You can keep an air stone in the bucket with critters or just stir the water if this 'switch' runs longer than an hour or so. If big project, have heater if necessary and circulation pump.
*Remove remainder of water to bucket/container leaving about X amount gallons of established water in tank with existing sand.
*Stir, stir and stir the existing tank sand which will turn almost black from debris, nitrates, phosphates and all the bad junk which would create a crash if you just moved the sand 'as is' like some do to another tank without bringing the bad stuff to the water instead.
*Start dipping/removing the bad water from old tank to a 'waste' container as you will be tossing this water. You will lose a few pods but your critters will be fine. While doing this stir some more, push the sand to the side of tank allowing the water to drain from sand and have more area to dip the remainder of bad water out...continue until you have the bad water out.
*Dip/scoop the sand out with something like a large plastic drinking glass and pour off whatever water is at the top of the cup. Have a container to hold your LS. It will be fine for the little time it's going to take you to switch tanks...if it's going to be an all-day project it is wise to have water atop the sand with mild circulation.
*Hard part is done and now the fun and rewarding part...This will go quick.
*In the tank you will be putting them in, add around 50% or so of NEW RODI Saltwater, does not need to be exact, but close. Put in LR, add sand with the cup you used to remove the sand from the old tank and slowly submerge it to new rank pouring it around in the tank around the LR. If you are adding more LS, it would be fine to put in at any point either with your existing sand, before or after it does not matter. It would also be wise to add a double dose of 'Prime' or whatever product you utilize to ZERO out any bad juju remaining.
*Add the remainder of established water you have contained to new tank slowly. Should have very little cloudiness and 'sandstorm'. At this point I admit, I use some Stability by Seachem. In your new tank would add caps of it according to directions...it will mix in with no issues. Probably not necessary but this is what I have always done with success.
*Add NEW RODI Saltwaterer to tank to capacity. ***I do not have power on yet as to not stir anything around as it's already got plenty of oxygen in it from adding the water.
*Remove critters however you normally do and place in new tank. If you have an anemone it would be good to place it where you like. ***Do not use the gallons of water from this container as it will be full of NH 3 at this point...simply dispose of it.
*Turn power on and make sure power heads, filter, etc are working.
*******What you have done is essentially is a good cleaning as far as all is concerned by using established everything removing the bad gunk from an old tank at some point and ~50% water change. Your critters will be happy in a clean, bigger, or different home with no ill side effects.
Enjoy the new, yet established home. ;
sfin52
So many pedestrians so little time
For the fine particles being stirred up a polishing filter should clean that up fairly quickly. Nothing else to add sense @sbash and @Captain Quint Sent us to college with both those detailed write ups .
Diesel
ME=1, CANCER=0.
How much time do you have to plan this out?
First considerations:
Once you have planned out your vehicle and purchased your moving tubs (I use these ones: https://www.rona.ca/en/storage-box-...g7nxq26nkwpVtGRQmkQhl_2Nt3ndvWbBoCs-MQAvD_BwE I imagine they are sold everywhere. They are low cost and very durable - unlike the clear bins which tend to crack easily).
- You need a vehicle. A minivan would work quite well for this much livestock. The tank might fit in a van, but you may need a truck.
- The tank and hardware can easily be transported dry, so I am not going to bother talking about them much.
- Sand/substrate; are you going to keep your existing, or buy new?
- Containers for moving livestock - get more than you will need (you may be able to return the unused containers). The last think you want is to not have enough on moving day.
- Get some air bubblers. You may not be able to use your original tank until the next day, due to the substrate dust. So the easiest way around this is to just add bubblers (and maybe heaters) to tubs until the next morning.
- Get a strong utility pump (mag 9 would be my choice) and a garden hose long enough to go from the tank to the vehicle. On this note, get a few spring clamps too...
- Helpers to move the tank.
- Buckets, you will probably need a few. These will be useful for moving the hardware and such.
- Encrusted colonies will likely break off the rock during transit
- Time of year, and the heat/cold weather outside.
- You are going to lose water, so make sure you have extra (i.e. fresh saltwater) on hand.
You will need separate tubs for fish, loose coral, encrusted coral and live rock. If you have corals on plugs, a piece of egg crate at the bottom of one of the bins/tubs could be very useful. Or you could make a grid out of egg crate to help them from mashing into each other during the drive (this would lower breakage).
This is going to be a long day, make sure you have a pot of coffee at the source and a case of beer at the destination
Here we go:
This is the basics of moving a tank! Do your planning and read up on your substrate options and you will do fine. If I missed anything critical, please chime in!
- Rinse all your tubs/bins before use. Rinse the pump and rinse out the hose.
- Run the hose from your tank to your moving vehicle.
- Connect the utility pump and put it inside the tank - use spring clamp to hold in place.
- Shut down the system, it's go time!
- Put the first tub into the vehicle and use another spring clamp to hold the other end of the hose. Note, a second person and an open window between you will be very useful here. I have done it alone before, but it is a lot of back and forth. Watch the pump side more, you don't want to suck anything up that is alive.
- Fill the tub about 2/3, the put another tub down and repeat. Partially fill a few tubs (depending on the vehicle and how well you can reach them).
- By this point, you should have figure out which bins are for what. Plan on the last bin to be for fish, as they will be the last thing you catch (aside from a few snails and crabs). As the water level drops in the main tank, start pulling out rocks and corals in whatever way makes the most sense. Ideally you want to keep the water as clear as possible throughout this process; both for the fishes well being and visibility.
- Carry on until you have filled your bins and caught your fish.
- Once you have the water drained to the sand level, check for snails and crabs and whatever other sand critters you may have.
- Scoop the sand into a bucket or two (I find a dustpan works well for this).
- Pack everything else into the moving vehicle(s?) and hit the road. Just driving around should be enough splish-splashing to keep the oxygen at acceptable levels.
- Once you are at your destination, set the main tank back up. Don't worry about the sump until near the end.
- Get some bubblers into the tubs with livestock.
- Rinse your sand (this may be controversial, but these are generic instructions so they may not apply to every situation to the T). Whether new substrate or your existing, rinsing the sand will keep the dust down and flush out any potential toxins.
- Add the sand - either add the sand before or after you add the bulk of the water back. I have always done it first, but I'm not sure it will matter.
- Hook the hose and utility pump back up - in reverse.
- You could add your freshly made saltwater at this point, or afterwards. I would do it first, just so there is clean water in the tank right away.
- Start adding water back. Draining the water tubs first, then the liverock tubs, then the livestock tubs.
- Add the liverock back as the tubs drain.
- Depending on how well the substrate settles, you may or may not want to hold off until morning to add the livestock. I usually wait.
- If you are waiting, the tubs I linked to are perfectly fine holding tanks for a couple days. Just make sure you have a bubbler running in them and add a heater if needed. Just drain the water low enough to carry them indoors and not get you soaked in the process, add enough water back to make everything comfortable.
- Set the rest of the tank up accordingly.
It also may not be practical to haul all that water, so if you can have enough water in reserve at the destination in advance, it might be easier.
There are other considerations to do after, like making new saltwater asap. A water change in a couple days may be in order; the corals will likely slime up and could release bio-warefare into the tank. Carbon might also be wise to run for a couple days. I would also wait a day or two before turning the lights back on.
Nice AT-AT, btw!
This should be a STICKY thingie.
Great job on making it so much easier for the OP.
OP
OP
TankLife86
Well-Known Member
Why search for it when you have actual nice people that is willing to give you guidance on how to do stuff after all isn't what this forum is all about? The thing is if you're not doing research and not know if there is 20+ threads regarding moving tanks why put your 2 say in things that doesn't concern you?
Captain Quint
Plank Owner of the Orca
The way I see it, if someone asks they might not find the 'moving threads' because there are so many members and threads on this great forum which can make it difficult at times to pinpoint topics.
I only put in my 2 cents worth on a post if I can in anyway help a member to not lose any marine life with personal experinces of learning the hard way.
TankLife86 thanks for the great topic which may help you and others in the future. I know in reading the teriffic wtiteup by sbash that it will enhance and help some important steps to what I do if I ever move again. And please let us know how it all goes. ~cheers~
I only put in my 2 cents worth on a post if I can in anyway help a member to not lose any marine life with personal experinces of learning the hard way.
TankLife86 thanks for the great topic which may help you and others in the future. I know in reading the teriffic wtiteup by sbash that it will enhance and help some important steps to what I do if I ever move again. And please let us know how it all goes. ~cheers~
There has been some great advice given. I agree with about 99% of it. The only way any of my moves have really differed is that I never reuse any old water. Why would you want to? There is absolutely nothing in it that is worthwhile, and besides, it is heavy. There's plenty of other heavy stuff to move without moving water too. Use just enough to keep things wet, and toss it once you arrive. Have enough water already made up at the new site to more than fill the tank and just go with it. If you think about it, it's nothing more than an extra large water change. Your fish and corals will love you for it.
OP
OP
TankLife86
Well-Known Member
Wait Wait Wait you mean I dont have to use my old water in the new house? I can mix new salt water and I wont need to cycle the tank again?
sbash
Valuable Member
Correct, you don't cycle the water, you cycle the rocks. BUT you do need lots of new water on hand if you go that route (or a smaller cycled holding tank while you make the new water), with a tank your size it is not practical for a lot of moving situations.
I have always try to keep 60% (ish) of the old water for the tanks I have moved. Just a preference, I have not seen any difference with the livestock with old or new water. One tank I moved recently was a 90 gallon and I only had about 10 gallons of usable water left by the time I got it home so I had to make all new water for it. None of the inhabitants seemed to care about the new water.
ZoWhat
10K Club member
IMO this is reverse thinking...
I guess its bc of my IT background where as a Tech if you asked coworkers/ bosses a question, they always responded "Did you GOOGLE it? And read up on it? I dont have the time to hold your hand....."
I've even seen many Techs get fired or demoted bc thry kept asking ignorant questions over and over and over again without researching it. Asking questions is fine if you've exhausted researching it yourself..... That's how Techs are trained
When I have a question I search this forum as a DATABASE OF KNOWLEDGE to see if I can read up on my question. Someone may have written a great post a year or two ago that answers all my questions with an "AaaawHa!" moment
If I dont see an answer to my question then I post a question.
.
Last edited:
OP
OP
TankLife86
Well-Known Member
That's cool it's your opinion man still doesnt make sense why you have to put your 2 sense in a topic that had nothing to do with you.
ZoWhat
10K Club member
Heres a link to dozens and dozens of recent threads from people moving tanks:
https://www.reef2reef.com/search/3977183/?q=Moving+tank&o=relevance&c[node]=16
https://www.reef2reef.com/search/3977183/?q=Moving+tank&o=relevance&c[node]=16
I saw it. I want one where to get please.
