Need to triple my bio load

[Cliffsreef]

I have a 120 display with a 80 sump I have a naso tang yellow tang malenurus wras 2 sunset Mathias yellow spot goby, lawnmower blemmy and 2 clowns. Mixed reef tank. I'm having a problem with to low of nitrates and phosphate. This is a mixed reef tank. I was told to over feed and double my load. What should I be looking for as far as large fish go. Or what can I get? Looking for another large fish or two not just anthias and wrasses...

 

[mcarroll]

I'm having a problem with to low of nitrates and phosphate.

Have low nitrates and phosphates caused actual problems or was this condition something that was picked up early in testing?

I was told to over feed and double my load.

That's a good way to foster an algae outbreak or worse a disease outbreak if you try to do that all at once.

It also may be premature to say that's what's needed – it's a pretty major move to add that much so I'd want to have more evidence to consider.

Why are nutrients so low?
Do you have any algae growth?

For example, are you...
...carbon dosing?
...using GFO?
.....bio-pellets?
.....extra bio-filtration or nutrient reduction tools of any kind?
...doing too many water changes?


Also, how low is "low" for both N and P – 0.00 ppm?

Do you happen to have a log of test results you could share?

How old is this tank?

Anything else noteworthy/relevant that you can think of?

 

[GoVols]

I have a 120 display with a 80 sump I have a naso tang yellow tang malenurus wras 2 sunset Mathias yellow spot goby, lawnmower blemmy and 2 clowns. Mixed reef tank. I'm having a problem with to low of nitrates and phosphate. This is a mixed reef tank. I was told to over feed and double my load. What should I be looking for as far as large fish go. Or what can I get? Looking for another large fish or two not just anthias and wrasses...

How low is your phosphates and nitrates?
What test kits are you using?

Are you stripping your water too clean with ROX carbon and not feeding your corals with something like Red Sea "Reef Energy" to keep up your organics up in the water column?

 

[Cliffsreef]

Have low nitrates and phosphates caused actual problems or was this condition something that was picked up early in testing?



That's a good way to foster an algae outbreak or worse a disease outbreak if you try to do that all at once.

It also may be premature to say that's what's needed – it's a pretty major move to add that much so I'd want to have more evidence to consider.

Why are nutrients so low?
Do you have any algae growth?

For example, are you...
...carbon dosing?
...using GFO?
.....bio-pellets?
.....extra bio-filtration or nutrient reduction tools of any kind?
...doing too many water changes?


Also, how low is "low" for both N and P – 0.00 ppm?

Do you happen to have a log of test results you could share?

How old is this tank?

Anything else noteworthy/relevant that you can think of?

I recently acquired the tank 6 weeks ago. It has everything mentioned above. Dose pumps bio reactor and carbon reactor dosing pumps... however I scaled back to just a refugium, skimmer and hand dosing to get it up and moving after the move... I'm kinda a purest.. lol I have Red Sea and Hanna checkers.. I took my water to the store where they use ati test kits. The guy I got the tank from was running a low nutrient system (or attempting) and failing at sustainable life. ( why I cut everything back). Everything is pretty much spot on other than pH it's running 7.9-8.1 now and rising with soda ash dosing... but nitrates are in the - and phosphate is 0.0

 

[GoVols]

I recently acquired the tank 6 weeks ago. It has everything mentioned above. Dose pumps bio reactor and carbon reactor dosing pumps... however I scaled back to just a refugium, skimmer and hand dosing to get it up and moving after the move... I'm kinda a purest.. lol I have Red Sea and Hanna checkers.. I took my water to the store where they use ati test kits. The guy I got the tank from was running a low nutrient system (or attempting) and failing at sustainable life. ( why I cut everything back). Everything is pretty much spot on other than pH it's running 7.9-8.1 now and rising with soda ash dosing... but nitrates are in the - and phosphate is 0.0

How bout a school of Blue Green Chromis or a school of an Anthias species?

 

[mcarroll]

Well if the tank was just moved then that qualifies as a pretty big disturbance.....so I'd characterize it as "still recovering" and the zero N and P situation should be resolved ASAP – even if you haven't had any negative symptoms yet.

In the short term by a little N and P fertilizers. (In the long term, the fish load and feeding will work.)

Bring PO4 up to ≥ 0.10 ppm.
Bring NO3 up to ≥ 5-10 ppm.

At least while it's "maturing" – and particularly if you're making any changes to the bio-load (make them slowly to minimize the impact) – make sure these levels stay around here or better. Don't let either one get close to zero. Once the tank is settled and you're into a feeding routine, I doubt you'll have any need for dosing. Ideally you'll have plenty of regular well-fed green algae growing and plenty of grazers to keep it managed. No work!

 

[Cliffsreef]

How bout a school of Blue Green Chromis or a school of an Anthias species?

just got me an exquisite wrasse... he amazing.

looking at other wrasse and anthias.... not really a chromis fan

 

[GoVols]

just got me an exquisite wrasse... he amazing.

looking at other wrasse and anthias.... not really a chromis fan

Wish you, all the best.

 

[Cliffsreef]

Well if the tank was just moved then that qualifies as a pretty big disturbance.....so I'd characterize it as "still recovering" and the zero N and P situation should be resolved ASAP – even if you haven't had any negative symptoms yet.

In the short term by a little N and P fertilizers. (In the long term, the fish load and feeding will work.)

Bring PO4 up to ≥ 0.10 ppm.
Bring NO3 up to ≥ 5-10 ppm.

At least while it's "maturing" – and particularly if you're making any changes to the bio-load (make them slowly to minimize the impact) – make sure these levels stay around here or better. Don't let either one get close to zero. Once the tank is settled and you're into a feeding routine, I doubt you'll have any need for dosing. Ideally you'll have plenty of regular well-fed green algae growing and plenty of grazers to keep it managed. No work!

Just for my first measurable nitrates!! 0.5 ppm