Needing some guidance

[Digimes]

I have what I think is a monti, that has gone from bright to dark in the last 30ish days. I have read a lot on this and have some confusion over the fix. Everything seems to say that the zoenthelia has gotten too dense and caused the darkening. I run kinda dirty tank for the softies and zoanthids so I am not surprised if the levels are slightly higher than normal. I have stock fluval evo lighting, not the best, but most things are doing wonderful. Some things I read also says to raise it nearer to the light to raise the par but not too much as it can then over oxygenate itself and die. Any thoughts woukd be appreciated. I am attaching a before and after image as well as other things in the tank.

 

[livinlifeinBKK]

What are your nitrates and phosphates? You mentioned a "dirty" tank so I'm curious...

 

[Digimes]

I don't measure phosphates often but normal nitrates run around 5 ppm with a sporadic high up to about 10 ppm at times. Everything else looks really good.

 

[livinlifeinBKK]

I don't measure them often but normal nitrates run around 5 ppm

I'd definitely measure both... especially phosphates...what test kits?

 

[Digimes]

I'd definitely measure both... especially phosphates...what test kits?

I don't have test kits for phosphates, I run it by the lfs, but they charge $10 to run it so it's almost cheaper to toss out a $20 frag than keep paying to test it. I know that sounds bad but kinda survival of the fitest in a 5g tank. Here is my most recent at home stats.

 

[livinlifeinBKK]

I don't have test kits for phosphates, I run it by the lfs, but they charge $10 to run it so it's almost cheaper to toss out a $20 frag than keep paying to test it. I know that sounds bad but kinda survival of the fitest in a 5g tank.

If you have SPS in a nano it's VERY important to make sure nutrients don't accumulate...it happens very quickly in such a small volume of water. You should get Salifert kits or if you can afford Hanna kits. Honestly I wouldn't even count on the LFS accuracy.

 

[livinlifeinBKK]

What do you mean by "dirty" precisely? Dirty as in you allow algae to grow without cleaning it or dirty as in feed heavily without changing the water often?

 

[Digimes]

What do you mean by "dirty" precisely? Dirty as in you allow algae to grow without cleaning it or dirty as in feed heavily without changing the water often?

Feed moderately with little water changes. Maybe 10% a month to bring in some of the extra minerals. I don't believe it is that dirty but I don't export like some people try.

 

[livinlifeinBKK]

Feed moderately with little water changes. Maybe 10% a month to bring in some of the extra minerals.

That's very little...I feel that you really need to buy a decent nitrate and phosphate test kit like Salifert or Red Sea...you coulve paid for the kits with each of those $20 frags you threw away after they died

 

[livinlifeinBKK]

Btw, are you sure those test results posted are accurate and nothing needs to be calibrated? If you have an ATO, I'd wonder why your salinity fluctuated like it did.

 

[Digimes]

Btw, are you sure those test results posted are accurate and nothing needs to be calibrated? If you have an ATO, I'd wonder why your salinity fluctuated like it did.

The salinity was just a fluctuation based on small volume, water change and how often I top off. It can fluctuate between 1.024 and 1.026 very quickly. I use Fluval test kits because I can get fresh refills fairly cheap. I have tested against other kits like salifert and get near identical readings.

 

[livinlifeinBKK]

The salinity was just a fluctuation based on small volume, water change and how often I top off. It can fluctuate between 1.024 and 1.026 very quickly. I use Fluval test kits because I can get fresh refills fairly cheap. I have tested against other kits like salifert and get near identical readings.

It's generally due to inadequate lighting or high phosphates when SPS turns darker or brown like that...what did you read that makes you think a dense population of zooxanthellae has occured over the past 30 days, and if that's the case, maybe it's related to high phosphates or inadequate lighting.

 

[Digimes]

It's generally due to inadequate lighting or high phosphates when SPS turns darker or brown like that...what did you read that makes you think a dense population of zooxanthellae has occured over the past 30 days, and if that's the case, maybe it's related to high phosphates or inadequate lighting.

Both are the suspected causes from what I read. Not sure if my little tank is the right environment and may just need to trade it some someone who can better care for it.

 

[livinlifeinBKK]

Both are the suspected causes from what I read. Not sure if my little tank is the right environment and may just need to trade it some someone who can better care for it.

I wouldn't just give up...I just googled about the light and it didn't sound great. Try replacing the light and testing for phosphates. I read the light spectrum is very white which likely means there isn't a great amount of par.

 

[Digimes]

Ordered a phosphate kit from Amazon, it was only $14 so much better than the LFS. I also have the upgrade Fluval 20w nano reef light coming today. It is more controllable than the stock light and controllable spectrum.

 

[Digimes]

I wouldn't just give up...I just googled about the light and it didn't sound great. Try replacing the light and testing for phosphates. I read the light spectrum is very white which likely means there isn't a great amount of par.

Bigger question, I understand par in general but I have two evo5 strip lights on this tank. I run 1 blue and 1 blue/white. Would you think running both as blue/white would increase par ? Does the second set of whites actually help much?

 

[livinlifeinBKK]

Bigger question, I understand par in general but I have two evo5 strip lights on this tank. I run 1 blue and 1 blue/white. Would you think running both as blue/white would increase par ? Does the second set of whites actually help much?

I'd advise you to buy a better quality light instead if you want SPS but yeah, you can try that.

 

[Digimes]

I'd advise you to buy a better quality light instead if you want SPS but yeah, you can try that.

Money is always a factor and I may stay clear of SPS. My stylocoeniella always seem to do good, just these Montiporas... I can send the new light back if that doesn't work out. I was also looking at the reef Breeder nano v2 but it's $120 and twice what I paid for the fuval nano reef one.

 

[MnFish1]

I wouldn't just give up...I just googled about the light and it didn't sound great. Try replacing the light and testing for phosphates. I read the light spectrum is very white which likely means there isn't a great amount of par.

Agree, never give up...

 

[MnFish1]

I have what I think is a monti, that has gone from bright to dark in the last 30ish days. I have read a lot on this and have some confusion over the fix. Everything seems to say that the zoenthelia has gotten too dense and caused the darkening. I run kinda dirty tank for the softies and zoanthids so I am not surprised if the levels are slightly higher than normal. I have stock fluval evo lighting, not the best, but most things are doing wonderful. Some things I read also says to raise it nearer to the light to raise the par but not too much as it can then over oxygenate itself and die. Any thoughts woukd be appreciated. I am attaching a before and after image as well as other things in the tank.

Not every coral does well in a mixed tank - since coral can also release toxins to poison their neighbors. Leather and soft corals especially. This would not explain your problem entirely - however if I was running this type of tank - I would consider activated carbon - which will remove some of these potential issues