Neptune Apex breakout box

[Xclusive Reef]

Can I also install cabinet door switches to turn on lights? I know with the breakout box there is a way but now I am unsure how to connect the 3.5 with the plug to the door sensors.

 

[jml1149]

I only use the green mechanical float switch in two places now, my 15g RO reservoir and my 55g new saltwater drum. If they fail, nothing catastrophic will happen, its more for convenience as a reminder to fill when necessary. All of my in-tank sensors are optical, two for the ATK and one high level emergency.

Plus, I royally goofed up the switch install on the 55g drum, and now, it's more of a "pride" thing hah. I didn't secure the drum properly and I slipped with the drill. Real stupid mistake so the hole was bad and it wouldn't seal right, I ended up using half a stick of Aquamend and a tube of superglue to get it to not leak. But I got it eventually. Now though if it fails someday, it's become a permanent part of the drum. It can't be replaced.

 

[rkpetersen]

I have all Neptune optical sensors in my setup. 2 on the ATK, 1 in the RO reservoir, 2 in DDR dosing containers. People are talking about how mechanical sensors can fail, but you should know that these optical sensors can and do fail as well, and it's probably not that rare. I've read of quite a few others having the low level sensors on the DDR go bad, and I personally have had the low level sensor on the ATK fail in the CLOSED position less than 3 months after purchase and installation. This was accompanied by some brownish stuff leaking out where the cord meets the sensor. Failing in the CLOSED position was particularly bad for this sensor; because of this, the ATK would never activate on its own or send any alarm, and your return pump would eventually be sucking air. I now have an email alarm set to warn me if the ATK doesn't activate at all for 4 hours, should this ever happen again.

 

[MaddyP]

I have all Neptune optical sensors in my setup. 2 on the ATK, 1 in the RO reservoir, 2 in DDR dosing containers. People are talking about how mechanical sensors can fail, but you should know that these optical sensors can and do fail as well, and it's probably not that rare. I've read of quite a few others having the low level sensors on the DDR go bad, and I personally have had the low level sensor on the ATK fail in the CLOSED position less than 3 months after purchase and installation. This was accompanied by some brownish stuff leaking out where the cord meets the sensor. Failing in the CLOSED position was particularly bad for this sensor; because of this, the ATK would never activate on its own or send any alarm, and your return pump would eventually be sucking air. I now have an email alarm set to warn me if the ATK doesn't activate at all for 4 hours, should this ever happen again.

I completely agree with you. I have seen instances where the optical sensor gets build up or fails for unknown reasons much sooner than high quality mechanical float switches. I personally use a combination of both and keep extra of both in case one does fail.

 

[Xclusive Reef]

so I don't think anyone answered the question on door sensor? how can I connect the cabinet door sensors to a FMM ?

 

[MaddyP]

so I don't think anyone answered the question on door sensor? how can I connect the cabinet door sensors to a FMM ?

Oh, I'm sorry...completely overlooked the post. Considering a door sensor works on the same principle as a mechanical float, I would wire the same way as described above.

 

[rkpetersen]

No reason not to use both. Some sensors/switches might be easier to set up with the FMM, and some with a breakout box. Since your door sensors will likely just be bare wire connectors, those would be super easy to use with a breakout box. And if you're going to have more than 4 sensors/switches in total, an FMM plus BB is cheaper than two FMMs.

 

[Newb73]

I have a high sensor in my sump which will also kill the ATO Off The sump water is too high.



If Swx12_2 CLOSED Then OFF

Since it never gets wet it should be less likely to fail.

 

[Ranjib]

I have all Neptune optical sensors in my setup. 2 on the ATK, 1 in the RO reservoir, 2 in DDR dosing containers. People are talking about how mechanical sensors can fail, but you should know that these optical sensors can and do fail as well, and it's probably not that rare. I've read of quite a few others having the low level sensors on the DDR go bad, and I personally have had the low level sensor on the ATK fail in the CLOSED position less than 3 months after purchase and installation. This was accompanied by some brownish stuff leaking out where the cord meets the sensor. Failing in the CLOSED position was particularly bad for this sensor; because of this, the ATK would never activate on its own or send any alarm, and your return pump would eventually be sucking air. I now have an email alarm set to warn me if the ATK doesn't activate at all for 4 hours, should this ever happen again.

This is the wisest advice I have read around ATK . Thank you for sharing.

I 'll attempt to build a general purpose alerting scheme that can trigger on anomalies from normal usage. i.e. the controller records normal usage over a month or so, then alert if a certain amount has not been poured into or its pouring more than it should be.

 

[Newb73]

Not that the Neptune break out box is bad...but this one is MUCH better.

https://www.avastmarine.com/products/digital-input-box

 

[Richard baker]

This is one I built using 3.5 mm head phone jacks and a 8 din mini cable

 

[Richard baker]

 

[LeeU]

Hi All,
First post here. So does anyone have a pin out for the FMM 3.5 jacks, I want a FMM but the OS-1 sensors are bulkhead style, I need a screw in style.
Respectfully LeeU

 

[mahenke]

Sure! I use the following to connect float switches to the FMM module. Break off the longer post as it won't be needed.


I wire this directly to the float switch with some heat shrink to protect wiring.

Then connect a 3.5mm male to male from float to FMM module.

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=644


Here is the finished product...

Hi thanks for posting but the FMM takes 4 TRRS pole 3.5mm jack not 3 pole TRS... I contacted Neptune they said could possible short the unit plugging 3 pole into 4... I tried anyways have these 2L Kamoer Dosing containers with built in float switch I was trying to incorporate ... it doesnt fry the unit but the switching is not detected by the FMM ports 3,4. Any Ideas would consider a TRS to TRSS adapter they sell but not certain still if the pin outs are the same?

 

[MaddyP]

Hi thanks for posting but the FMM takes 4 TRRS pole 3.5mm jack not 3 pole TRS... I contacted Neptune they said could possible short the unit plugging 3 pole into 4... I tried anyways have these 2L Kamoer Dosing containers with built in float switch I was trying to incorporate ... it doesnt fry the unit but the switching is not detected by the FMM ports 3,4. Any Ideas would consider a TRS to TRSS adapter they sell but not certain still if the pin outs are the same?

Worked fine for my setup while I was running it. One major reason why I’ve moved away from Neptune to my own DIY controller is the freedom to use the technology I want…