New 180 Build - Mini Coop's Dream Tank

[Diesel]

Ok. Dumb move of the night...I don’t have my ATO hooked up yet. So every other day or so I just fill with RODI straight from the system. A gallon or two is no big deal. Well. I let it run too long and forgot to set my timer so it got quite the fill. Salinity is fine.

Saw 2 of my Corals all *****. Temp in the tank was 76 degrees!! Thought my heater was broken until I realized I filled about 15 gallons of RO water that was cold!!! Ugh. Thank goodness the temp wasn’t too significant. They should be back out tomorrow. But they were not happy! This weekend the ATO is getting hooked up!!!

(PS - the amount of evaporation of a completely open tank with a 100 gallon open sump is HUGE!!!). I bet I lose 2-3 gallons per day!!!

Get the new DI membrane that produces the pre-evaporate water, in that case your water won't evaporate as much.
Btw, yes I'm ok

 

[Mini Coop]

Get the new DI membrane that produces the pre-evaporate water, in that case your water won't evaporate as much.
Btw, yes I'm ok

Ok - have no idea what that is! Link?

 

[Fudsey]

A joke....;Hilarious;Hilarious;Hilarious

 

[Diesel]

Ok - have no idea what that is! Link?

Have to look it up when I get back to Houston.
I have it running since 04/01/17 with no problem.

 

[Mini Coop]

Ok. 2 questions tonight.

1. Will coral RX dip kill aptasia?? I received a coral from a vendor with aptasia all over it. Thank goodness I started QTing corals. I did aptasia x on that one but it came back. Also - can it spread to the other corals in QT? (None are touching).

2. I have a banded shrimp pairs with the goby's but because I had treated the fish with prazi, I put him in the coral tank. He's been in QT for 4 weeks. Think it's ok to go ahead and put him in the DT? The other fish will come out of QT in about 2 weeks. Do I need to wait and put him and the goby's in at the same time.

3. Clowns have been in for 2 weeks. I have diatom algae bloom. It wasn't too bad and is already clearing up. Fish in QT will be done in 2 weeks. (Letting stubby grow back his fins as much as possible in QT).
QT fish: cardinal, 2 wheelers shrimp goby's.
I also have a flame hawk and a scooter dragonette in my 120 that can come over.

Would it be ok to go ahead and add the flame and scooter now, then the QT in 2 weeks?
Add all at once in 2 weeks?
Or add QT in 2 weeks and then wait 2 more weeks to add flame and scooter??

Thank you!!!

 

[Mini Coop]

Also - to avoid too much with algae blooms, I am running my Kessils 6 hours a day. Is it time to up it??

 

[ksfulk]

Ok. 2 questions tonight.

1. Will coral RX dip kill aptasia?? I received a coral from a vendor with aptasia all over it. Thank goodness I started QTing corals. I did aptasia x on that one but it came back. Also - can it spread to the other corals in QT? (None are touching).

2. I have a banded shrimp pairs with the goby's but because I had treated the fish with prazi, I put him in the coral tank. He's been in QT for 4 weeks. Think it's ok to go ahead and put him in the DT? The other fish will come out of QT in about 2 weeks. Do I need to wait and put him and the goby's in at the same time.

3. Clowns have been in for 2 weeks. I have diatom algae bloom. It wasn't too bad and is already clearing up. Fish in QT will be done in 2 weeks. (Letting stubby grow back his fins as much as possible in QT).
QT fish: cardinal, 2 wheelers shrimp goby's.
I also have a flame hawk and a scooter dragonette in my 120 that can come over.

Would it be ok to go ahead and add the flame and scooter now, then the QT in 2 weeks?
Add all at once in 2 weeks?
Or add QT in 2 weeks and then wait 2 more weeks to add flame and scooter??

Thank you!!!

1. No. It is a good practice to get into to remove frags from their plugs when you get them and transfer/glue them to new clean plugs. This gets rid of a lot of potential pests. There are no dips that get rid of aiptasia, but if there are only one or two on the coral itself, get some superglue and completely encase the aiptasia in the superglue. This will keep them from doing anything bad in your tank. And yes, they can spread.

2.) The shrimp do not carry ich parasites, so if thats what you're worried about there's no problem there. You can wait if you like, that will make it more likely pair up while in the tank. Otherwise, they can and do get seperated and just live by themselves.

3.) Ummm maybe? I dont like to mix batches, even if I know where they are coming from, so I would finish QT, then start with the next set. If you are entirely sure that the newcomers dont have anything, then you can add them and watch and wait, but for my peace of mind, I wouldnt do it.

 

[Mini Coop]

1. No. It is a good practice to get into to remove frags from their plugs when you get them and transfer/glue them to new clean plugs. This gets rid of a lot of potential pests. There are no dips that get rid of aiptasia, but if there are only one or two on the coral itself, get some superglue and completely encase the aiptasia in the superglue. This will keep them from doing anything bad in your tank. And yes, they can spread.

2.) The shrimp do not carry ich parasites, so if thats what you're worried about there's no problem there. You can wait if you like, that will make it more likely pair up while in the tank. Otherwise, they can and do get seperated and just live by themselves.

3.) Ummm maybe? I dont like to mix batches, even if I know where they are coming from, so I would finish QT, then start with the next set. If you are entirely sure that the newcomers dont have anything, then you can add them and watch and wait, but for my peace of mind, I wouldnt do it.

Thanks for the input! As far as the aptasia - it isn’t on the plug. It’s a favia (one polyp) and on top of the plug looks like skeleton under the polyp before the plug. Can I remove the polyp all together? I’ll do the super glue for sure. I’ve never had aptasia. I’m 1/2 tempted to throw it out!

As far as the fish - the ones coming from my 120 are clean. They went through all QT procedures and have been in my 120 DT for over a year now. The only thing that has happened is that we moved the entire tank about six months ago. But they have been in and clean since then with no issues. If it wasn’t my system, I would definitely QT before I put them in my other tank.

I was more concerned about timing. Is two weeks enough time in between adding batches of fish? If I add the flame Hawkin scooter now, it will be two weeks before I can add the fish that are in cutie. And then it would be another six weeks after that before I add a third batch because they will go through my QT process first.

 

[rainmaker]

You could try a couple of peppermint shrimp in your frag tank I've had good luck with them getting rid of aptasia

 

[rainmaker]

as far as adding fish I think it would be alright to go ahead an add the ones you want now but if you have a fish know to be aggressive or territorial proably would add last

 

[ksfulk]

Thanks for the input! As far as the aptasia - it isn’t on the plug. It’s a favia (one polyp) and on top of the plug looks like skeleton under the polyp before the plug. Can I remove the polyp all together? I’ll do the super glue for sure. I’ve never had aptasia. I’m 1/2 tempted to throw it out!

As far as the fish - the ones coming from my 120 are clean. They went through all QT procedures and have been in my 120 DT for over a year now. The only thing that has happened is that we moved the entire tank about six months ago. But they have been in and clean since then with no issues. If it wasn’t my system, I would definitely QT before I put them in my other tank.

I was more concerned about timing. Is two weeks enough time in between adding batches of fish? If I add the flame Hawkin scooter now, it will be two weeks before I can add the fish that are in cutie. And then it would be another six weeks after that before I add a third batch because they will go through my QT process first.

A favia's skeleton should be connected to the flesh, as far as I know - cant say that Im super familar with favias though. If its on the skeleton, then you can hit it with a stiff nylon bristled brush (gun cleaning brushes work great, but a stiff toothbrush also does the job) and brush it down to nothing, rinse the plug in salt water thats NOT in your frag tank to remove any loose particles, and then cover that area in superglue. That should give you the most protection from the aiptasia. Dont wait on it though - sooner is better in this case, you dont want to get an infestation in your frag tank. As for the super glue, any gel super glue will work, for work around frags/corals, I prefer the LocTite Super Glue Gel Control as the nozzle is very tiny and you have a lot of control over where the glue goes. A quick dip in salt water skins the glue over so it doesnt wash off at all, and then you are good to go.

I always move to clean plugs anyhow, keeps things (aside from aiptasia) like bryopsis, valonia (bubble algae), nudis and eggs, flatworms, etc out of your system, as most of these creatures have a tendency to hang out between the frag plug and the coral itself. A fresh plug wont solve all those problems, but you know that you are putting a clean plug into you system at least.

Every system is different, yours is large, so once your biofilter (bacteria) start, they have a lot of ground to cover. When I started my last tank, I had 15 fish in QT at the same time, and my QT busted a seam, so all of them went in at the same time. I didnt have an issue with the biofilter at all. I would assume with the size of tank you have, 2 weeks is a fine amount of time to wait between fish additions. Real concern for bioload and biofilter comes in when you have a very small tank with a limited amount of water.

 

[Mini Coop]

Ok. Here is the frag with the aptasia. I tried to put superglue around it. I like it, so don’t want to throw it out. But how do I take it off the plug? What’s the honeycomb thing under the polyp?

Also - what about frags that are encrusted onto the plug? Suggestions for that? (I received 2 “free” ones but no ID as to what they are. Can’t get a great pic either. But they are the last 2.

 

[redfishbluefish]

A sharp knife at the face of the plug.....sheer on cyanoacrylate is fairly poor....should snap right off.

 

[Mini Coop]

A sharp knife at the face of the plug.....sheer on cyanoacrylate is fairly poor....should snap right off.

What is the honeycomb looking part? That is where the aptasia is growing

 

[Mini Coop]

Ok - device on my next batch!!! Thinking I will go wrasses next because I have heard how difficult anthias can be and might just wait for @Humblefish and his amazing new business to take care of those for me!!

I am thinking a pair of 3 wrasses - 3 different species. I'd like a McCosker flasher (male) and I like the male leopard wrasse. I need a suggestion for the 3rd. I would like more variety in color in my tank. Maybe something with some blues in it or yellow? (Yellow Corris wrasse - but not sure I love them).

And....go!

 

[rainmaker]

The honeycomb is the coral skeleton it would be OK to scrape off a small area where the aptasia is with a knife then rinse coral in salt water before putting back

 

[Zonly1]

I hate those things...only thing worse is manjano. I'd scrape and then superglue to be safe.

 

[Mini Coop]

I hate those things...only thing worse is manjano. I'd scrape and then superglue to be safe.

I am still learning a lot about corals, does this coral have one big pull up or will it developed several little polyps? Also, if I superglue around the skeleton, will that prevent it from growing any larger? Sorry if you sound like stupid questions, just still learning as much as I can

 

[ksfulk]

Ok - device on my next batch!!! Thinking I will go wrasses next because I have heard how difficult anthias can be and might just wait for @Humblefish and his amazing new business to take care of those for me!!

I am thinking a pair of 3 wrasses - 3 different species. I'd like a McCosker flasher (male) and I like the male leopard wrasse. I need a suggestion for the 3rd. I would like more variety in color in my tank. Maybe something with some blues in it or yellow? (Yellow Corris wrasse - but not sure I love them).

And....go!

Flashers are beautiful! Something that you should think about is that to get the most "bang for your buck" with flasher or fairy wrasses is to have something for them to "compete" against - meaning you want more than one flasher or fairy wrasse so they will display/flash/strut for you. I would avoid pairs of wrasses (except for maybe the leopards) as flashers and fairies almost always transition into males in aquaria. Instead of getting pairs, I would look at getting 3-5 wrasses of the same genus (Cirrhilabrus (fairys) or Paracheilinus (flashers)) and use the guidance in this article by the resident wrasse expert. My favorites for fairys are C. exquisite, C. cf cyanopleura, C. laboutei, and C. rhomboidalis. My favorite flashers are P. mccoskeri, P. carpernteri, and P. filamenosis. For a blue color C. solorensis and for yellow, P. filamentosis and there are some fairys like the C. rhomboidalis, or C. jordani

I am still learning a lot about corals, does this coral have one big pull up or will it developed several little polyps? Also, if I superglue around the skeleton, will that prevent it from growing any larger? Sorry if you sound like stupid questions, just still learning as much as I can

I think for this type they are called 'mouths' or 'eyes' instead of polyps, but thats semantics at this point. This type will grow flesh out around its base and grow along the rock work or sand depending on where it is lying. If there is superglue on the old skeleton, it will eventually grow over the top of it. Superglue will harden like rock and the coral can grow over it.

 

[Mini Coop]

Flashers are beautiful! Something that you should think about is that to get the most "bang for your buck" with flasher or fairy wrasses is to have something for them to "compete" against - meaning you want more than one flasher or fairy wrasse so they will display/flash/strut for you. I would avoid pairs of wrasses (except for maybe the leopards) as flashers and fairies almost always transition into males in aquaria. Instead of getting pairs, I would look at getting 3-5 wrasses of the same genus (Cirrhilabrus (fairys) or Paracheilinus (flashers)) and use the guidance in this article by the resident wrasse expert. My favorites for fairys are C. exquisite, C. cf cyanopleura, C. laboutei, and C. rhomboidalis. My favorite flashers are P. mccoskeri, P. carpernteri, and P. filamenosis. For a blue color C. solorensis and for yellow, P. filamentosis and there are some fairys like the C. rhomboidalis, or C. jordani



I think for this type they are called 'mouths' or 'eyes' instead of polyps, but thats semantics at this point. This type will grow flesh out around its base and grow along the rock work or sand depending on where it is lying. If there is superglue on the old skeleton, it will eventually grow over the top of it. Superglue will harden like rock and the coral can grow over it.

So - I could do 3 flashers and a pair of leopards??