New and Looking for advise!

[Dan_Reef87]

Hello, I recently acquired a 75 Gallon setup from a friend of a friend. It came with almost everything needed except a return pump for the sump. What is recommended for a return on a 75 Gallon? Brand? ect. after doing research it appears that the GPH is recommended to be between 375 and 750 GPH. Also it's a DIY Sump what is the best way for the overflow to be attached to the sump with a sock? I'm not going to rush and take my time setting everything up in hope to eliminate problems. I will be putting new sand in to replace the black gravel that it pictured.

Equipment it came with that i can recall. Is there anything else i need to purchase?
Aquamaxx cone style skimmer
spectrapure maxcap ro/di 90 gpd
Kessil AP700 light
bunch of rock
1 large and 2 small heaters
jebao wifi wavemaker
bucket of reef crystals salt
various foods
API Saltwater test kit
API Reef Test kit.

 

[MnFish1]

1. I would make sure that before you make up your salt - that you mix the salt (in the bucket) - incase some of the elements have settled.
2. I assume you've done a leak test - of all of the equipment - if not - I would.
3. Some people will criticize the API test kits. I find that if you do them correctly (i.e. exactly correctly) - they will work fine.
4. If you took sand from the old tank - I would take it out and thoroughly clean it before using (i.e. rinse under water until clear) tap water is fine - since you're basically starting up a new tank. (PS I see you're planning to replace it - but in case you decide to use it - make sure it's clean).
5. IF you can keep the rocks wet (with salt water) - i.e. in a bucket with a powerhead - assuming that the tank was in use - you can decrease your cycle time. If not - I would rinse/clean them with high pressure tap water (you can also consider soaking in a dilute bleach solution - realizing that you will lose your cycling bacteria).
6. As to the pump - I like the Sicci Brand - here is a nice article on how to size a pump. https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/content/post/md-2020-11-how-to-size-a-return-pump

Hope this helps - good luck with the tank

 

[Dburr1014]

Welcome to reef 2 reef!

 

[Gumbies R Us]

Welcome to Reef2Reef and best of luck with the new tank!

 

[Dan_Reef87]

1. I would make sure that before you make up your salt - that you mix the salt (in the bucket) - incase some of the elements have settled.
2. I assume you've done a leak test - of all of the equipment - if not - I would.
3. Some people will criticize the API test kits. I find that if you do them correctly (i.e. exactly correctly) - they will work fine.
4. If you took sand from the old tank - I would take it out and thoroughly clean it before using (i.e. rinse under water until clear) tap water is fine - since you're basically starting up a new tank. (PS I see you're planning to replace it - but in case you decide to use it - make sure it's clean).
5. IF you can keep the rocks wet (with salt water) - i.e. in a bucket with a powerhead - assuming that the tank was in use - you can decrease your cycle time. If not - I would rinse/clean them with high pressure tap water (you can also consider soaking in a dilute bleach solution - realizing that you will lose your cycling bacteria).
6. As to the pump - I like the Sicci Brand - here is a nice article on how to size a pump. https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/content/post/md-2020-11-how-to-size-a-return-pump

Hope this helps - good luck with the tank

Thank you!
1. i have a 20gal tank that came with everything that was used for mixing.
2. the tank was in use until last week when i received it. I got these items and my friend got the fish and coral that was in it.
3. is there a better option for testing? i've only done Freshwater and the API master kit is the most recommended for fresh.
4. I'm going to buy new sand (Not a fan of the black gravel that came with it.)
5. I'm going to clean the rocks due to not being set up yet to keep them in water, and they have been out of water for a week now.
6. Thank you, I do have a Sicci Syncra HF 10.0 that came with everything but it puts out 2500 GPH and it would take almost 16' of head pressure to being it down to 750 GPH . is it possible to put a valve inline to restrict the flow?

 

[MnFish1]

Thank you!
1. i have a 20gal tank that came with everything that was used for mixing.
2. the tank was in use until last week when i received it. I got these items and my friend got the fish and coral that was in it.
3. is there a better option for testing? i've only done Freshwater and the API master kit is the most recommended for fresh.
4. I'm going to buy new sand (Not a fan of the black gravel that came with it.)
5. I'm going to clean the rocks due to not being set up yet to keep them in water, and they have been out of water for a week now.
6. Thank you, I do have a Sicci Syncra HF 10.0 that came with everything but it puts out 2500 GPH and it would take almost 16' of head pressure to being it down to 750 GPH . is it possible to put a valve inline to restrict the flow?

I believe that the pump has an ability to adjust the intake on the pump. I'm not sure exactly which one you have - mine does. Additionally, you can use the enclosed adapters - which will also decrease the flow some. I would think, though that that will waste energy - you might be better with a smaller pump unless it's one of the adjustable ones.

 

[Dan_Reef87]

I believe that the pump has an ability to adjust the intake on the pump. I'm not sure exactly which one you have - mine does. Additionally, you can use the enclosed adapters - which will also decrease the flow some. I would think, though that that will waste energy - you might be better with a smaller pump unless it's one of the adjustable ones.

This is the pump i have, I looked and don't see any adjustments on it. I'll pick up a different pump i feel like that will be my best bet.

 

[MnFish1]

This is the pump i have, I looked and don't see any adjustments on it. I'll pick up a different pump i feel like that will be my best bet.

the adjustment 'knob' is on the back end where water comes in. I agree with you it does not appear to be there on this model. BUT - if you buy a new pump - you can look for that option. Given the flows you want - it seems to me either a 2.5 or 3 would be enough?? https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/sicce-syncra-silent-3-0-pump-714-gph.html

 

[Dan_Reef87]

the adjustment 'knob' is on the back end where water comes in. I agree with you it does not appear to be there on this model. BUT - if you buy a new pump - you can look for that option. Given the flows you want - it seems to me either a 2.5 or 3 would be enough?? https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/sicce-syncra-silent-3-0-pump-714-gph.html

That 3.0 Silent is the one i've been looking at and i will most likely order it for the setup

 

[Dan_Reef87]

Hey everyone, Still not added water yet but i have the plumbing fixed and sump almost ready to go. Trying not to rush and take my time to make sure everything is ready. At this point i just need to add sand, water and start the cycle.

 

[Dan_Reef87]

Water has been added, now to start the cycling process

 

[Dan_Reef87]

Just over 2 weeks and ammonia and nitrites have dropped. I’m ghost feeding. Do I need to add more food? I’ve attached 2 pictures the one with nitrites showing purple is from one week ago.

 

[Dan_Reef87]

3 1/2 weeks into the fishless cycle and it looks to have entered the “ugly” phase. Do
I need to add fish or cleanup crew or just let it go ?

 

[MrGisonni]

Keep feeding I think you're still cycling.

 

[Dan_Reef87]

Keep feeding I think you're still cycling.

Sounds good, Thank you

 

[MnFish1]

Just over 2 weeks and ammonia and nitrites have dropped. I’m ghost feeding. Do I need to add more food? I’ve attached 2 pictures the one with nitrites showing purple is from one week ago.

I don't think you need to add more food. I would wait until the ammonia is more yellow. (i.e. 0) - EDIT - Once, without feeding, the ammonia is yellow, add 'stuff'. The problem with 'ghost feeding' - is that you really don't know how much ammonia your tank is processing/day. I would stop feeding, get a bottle of Fritz 9000 and add a CUC and a couple fish (like a mated pair of clowns, etc). After this time period, you should be cycled once the ammonia is 'yellow'. PPS - what is your pH?

 

[Dan_Reef87]

I don't think you need to add more food. I would wait until the ammonia is more yellow. (i.e. 0) - EDIT - Once, without feeding, the ammonia is yellow, add 'stuff'. The problem with 'ghost feeding' - is that you really don't know how much ammonia your tank is processing/day. I would stop feeding, get a bottle of Fritz 9000 and add a CUC and a couple fish (like a mated pair of clowns, etc). After this time period, you should be cycled once the ammonia is 'yellow'. PPS - what is your pH?

Okay, I'm probably going to get a couple fish in the next week or so, The PH was around 8.2. I plan on getting some better testing equipment soon. I'll order a bottle of Fritz 9000 today and add it once it comes in.

 

[MnFish1]

Okay, I'm probably going to get a couple fish in the next week or so, The PH was around 8.2. I plan on getting some better testing equipment soon. I'll order a bottle of Fritz 9000 today and add it once it comes in.

Many people would say you don't need the bacteria after this long. Especially if you're just stocking with a low bioload. The reason I recommended it is that you seem concerned.

 

[Dan_Reef87]

Many people would say you don't need the bacteria after this long. Especially if you're just stocking with a low bioload. The reason I recommended it is that you seem concerned.

Yeah i just don't want to kill something when it could be prevented. Also what is the main difference between the Fritz 900 and 9 other than the turbo 900 costing twice as much?

 

[MnFish1]

Yeah i just don't want to kill something when it could be prevented. Also what is the main difference between the Fritz 900 and 9 other than the turbo 900 costing twice as much?

The actual number of bacteria present. "

About FritzZyme® TurboStart® 900 Saltwater​

FritzZyme® TurboStart® 900 contains the same proven saltwater strains of effective, live nitrifying bacteria as FritzZyme® 9 but at 15 times the concentration. TurboStart® 900 reduces fish loss due to toxic levels of ammonia and nitrite. Establishing colonies of nitrifying bacteria without FritzZyme® can take weeks; FritzZyme® TurboStart® completely cycles aquariums in five days or less, allowing for safe, immediate addition of livestock.
TurboStart® may be added to new tanks or established systems any time the biofilter needs fortification, including after water changes, aggressive cleaning, adding new livestock, medicating or changing filter media."

Hope this helps!