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- Jun 7, 2017
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I got my first frags and they seem to be doing fine. Adjusting to the new tank I assume. I dipped in revive, quick dip and swish for the torch and candy cane, 5min dip for the zoas. I hit them with the turkey baster but didn't scrub the plugs(I didn't know that it's a good idea to scrub em). They all opened up once in the tank. A couple of the polyps on the eagle eye zoas keep closing and opening, the torch has been opening and closing at times. I noticed the torch close up and excrete some brown stringy stuff. I've seen it happen three times now. In searching about it it seems they do this sometimes and it could mean it's upset and dying or it could mean it's just getting rid of extra zooxanthellae or waste or both and may mean nothing. So I was just going to observe and see how it goes. But I got home late tonight, about 11:00pm and noticed all the frags are closed up. Around 12:30pm I noticed the torch had opened up a little more, the rest are completely closed up. I read that in nature corals stay open all night and are actually most active at night but in out aquariums it's common for them to close at night. Is that all I'm seeing or could there be an issue? Am I just getting worried over nothing?
/Oh and the first couple calcium tests are off because the lid was leaking each time I shook the bottle because the cap leaks. Would I be able to do that test in the red sea bottle? I don't think the difference in the shape of the bottles will mater on that test right?
10 Gallon Tank
Aquaclear 70 (300gal/hr) Stuffed with filter floss.
200w Heater
Digiten Temp Controller
LuminiGrow LED (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071LJC8HL/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
9-26-17
Cycle Complete
10-4-17 - 5:00pm
75%WC
NH4+3- oppm
NO3- 5ppm Red Sea
Temp- 78F
SG- 1.026
Moved light all the way up and dimmed to lowest setting.
Added frags to tank:
Green and Yellow Torch
Neon Green Candy Cane
Eagle Eyes Zoa
Radioactive Dragon Eyes Zoa
10-6-17 - 9:00pm
NH4+3- 0ppm Red Sea
NO3- 5ppm Red Sea
PO4- 0.03ppm Salifert
KH- 9 Red Sea
Ca- 420 mg/l API
Ph- 8.4 Red Sea
SG- 1.026
Temp- 77.8F
10-8-17 - 9:30pm
NH4+3- 0ppm Red Sea
NO3- 5ppm Red Sea
KH- 9 Red Sea
Ca- 480 mg/l API
SG- 1.026
Temp- 77.9F
Bumped light intensity up one notch.
10-9-17 11:45pm
KH- 9 Red Sea
NH4+3- oppm Red Sea
NO3- 5ppm Red Sea
PO4- 0ppm Red Sea
Ca- 460mg/l API
PH- 8.4
Temp- 77.9F
SG- 1.025
10-7-17:
10-8-17
/Oh and the first couple calcium tests are off because the lid was leaking each time I shook the bottle because the cap leaks. Would I be able to do that test in the red sea bottle? I don't think the difference in the shape of the bottles will mater on that test right?
10 Gallon Tank
Aquaclear 70 (300gal/hr) Stuffed with filter floss.
200w Heater
Digiten Temp Controller
LuminiGrow LED (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071LJC8HL/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
9-26-17
Cycle Complete
10-4-17 - 5:00pm
75%WC
NH4+3- oppm
NO3- 5ppm Red Sea
Temp- 78F
SG- 1.026
Moved light all the way up and dimmed to lowest setting.
Added frags to tank:
Green and Yellow Torch
Neon Green Candy Cane
Eagle Eyes Zoa
Radioactive Dragon Eyes Zoa
10-6-17 - 9:00pm
NH4+3- 0ppm Red Sea
NO3- 5ppm Red Sea
PO4- 0.03ppm Salifert
KH- 9 Red Sea
Ca- 420 mg/l API
Ph- 8.4 Red Sea
SG- 1.026
Temp- 77.8F
10-8-17 - 9:30pm
NH4+3- 0ppm Red Sea
NO3- 5ppm Red Sea
KH- 9 Red Sea
Ca- 480 mg/l API
SG- 1.026
Temp- 77.9F
Bumped light intensity up one notch.
10-9-17 11:45pm
KH- 9 Red Sea
NH4+3- oppm Red Sea
NO3- 5ppm Red Sea
PO4- 0ppm Red Sea
Ca- 460mg/l API
PH- 8.4
Temp- 77.9F
SG- 1.025
10-7-17:
10-8-17
Last edited:
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