New growth or bleaching?
- Thread starter donnievaz
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donnievaz
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I'll have to check. I've been knee deep in setting up a quarantine tank for my fish an haven't tested. Come to think of it the rock with that frag on it was out of water for about ten minutes while I caught all my fish. Would that do it?
Joshky
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No, they can be out of water longer than you'd think.
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donnievaz
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Don't dose at all. Just change about 4 gallons of water about every other week in a BC29. I'll check the alk tonight. Been really busy and haven't tested other than ph anything in over a week. I only tested that to make sure it matched the water I was making for the QT tank. It was a couple points lower than usual now that I think about it. Around 8.0-8-1 vs. 8.3
ReeferBee
Active Member
alk swing would cause rtn or stn with birdsnest. I, and others keep this as an indicator sps. In my experience BN are one of the first sps to show if alkalinity is not stable. Alk burn, on the tips, generally means too high of alk for available nutrients. BN does get white tips for new growth, hard to tell from the pic
I agree I would like to see an image with more white light, less blue.
High constant flow can literally remove tissue from the tips as well.
The pH swing value you posted should have no effect on the coral.
If you're using a salt like Reef Crystals and do a large water change on a smaller tank you can cause a significant change in Alk, that might be the case here.
High constant flow can literally remove tissue from the tips as well.
The pH swing value you posted should have no effect on the coral.
If you're using a salt like Reef Crystals and do a large water change on a smaller tank you can cause a significant change in Alk, that might be the case here.
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donnievaz
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Parameters as of tonight, all tests API except magnesium (Salifert)
ph 8.3
Nitrates <5ppm
Phosphates 0
Calcium 500, down from 550
dkh 7, down from 8
Magnesium 1140, down from 1250
Yeah those are burnt tips. Let the Ca drift down to 450 and bring the mag up to 1250-1350. You'll alk and ca ratio should stabilize at a higher mag level. Those sure are wacky values for not dosing, how in the world did the Ca get that high.
Just leave them be for now. I have never had great success with tissue growing back over skeleton, others have. If algae begins to grow on the skeleton you may have to frag the piece up.
I use IO always have except when I have used RC.
I use IO always have except when I have used RC.
I've been considering going to RC. This may push me there.
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donnievaz
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@Tahoe61 I just had another thought. I run the 2nd chamber of my BC29 as a refugium with the lights on 24/7. It's jammed with chaeto and I pull out softball sized clumps regularly. Would I be better off running that on an alternating light cycle with the tank lights? Nitrate and phosphate regularly test undetectable. Maybe i'm stripping too much out of the water?
How long had you had the piece prior to the issue.
Yeah if you can run the chaeto on an alternating lighting schedule that would optimal.
If all other corals are doing well, growing with nice color than I would not be too concerned about undetectable N and P. You could always cut back on wc and the N/P values might go up a tad. Do not change the scheme of you tank because one coral is not doing well. I still think swings in chemistry is to blame for the burnt tips. My only real concern is the elevated Ca and lower Mag levels. Next time you make up a batch of water test Ca levels to see if the salt batch is to blame.
Yeah if you can run the chaeto on an alternating lighting schedule that would optimal.
If all other corals are doing well, growing with nice color than I would not be too concerned about undetectable N and P. You could always cut back on wc and the N/P values might go up a tad. Do not change the scheme of you tank because one coral is not doing well. I still think swings in chemistry is to blame for the burnt tips. My only real concern is the elevated Ca and lower Mag levels. Next time you make up a batch of water test Ca levels to see if the salt batch is to blame.
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donnievaz
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About 3 weeks. I also have a frag of green birdsnet that I got at the same time that's doing the same thing now.
The only sps that's really doing well (in comparison) is a Setosa I've had for about 2 months, it doesn't really ever have much polyp extension but color's great and I do see some growth. I have a 2 headed Duncan that's doing well, a small hammer that doesn't look bad, a candy cane that's all but dead. Assorted Zoas that don't open, some do others barely do...
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donnievaz
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Light is an Evergrow IT2040 LED, I removed the lenses for better dispersion. API for all but Mag which is Salifert. I fully plan to switch from API to Red Sea soon but funds are a little tight and that stuff ain't cheap.
