New hobby . Need advice :)

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Nwel99

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Calcium 520
Phosphate .50 I between. 25
Ammonia 0 ppm
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 0
Carbonate hardness super high . 15 drops past the chart
Alkalinity high at 10
Ph low 7.8
Salinity 1.025
2 AI prime lights on a schedule recommended by a user on here :) been a day with these. Initially I was using the nicrew basic saltwater. But with getting more coral I felt I needed more. I have a 20 gallon long
Fish seem very happy. But my leather don't seem to open now
GSP have not opened since water change and new lighting .
And my duncan ever since I've had it never has looked the way It did at the store. It's "whiskers" look like little balls . But it's always open and willing to eat.
I use a aqua clear HOB with media basket with the bio and carbon .
Tank is heated at 79 degrees
I have two power heads on each side
Any recommendations on what to do differently would be greatly appreciated
I'm new to this . I'm still learning

Oh and my stock. I have two juvenile clowns , a teeny tiny watchmen goby which is grey hoping it turns yellow and a pistal shrimp and a cardinal.
Clean up crew. 5 snails and 1 emerald crab

I intend on going bigger. But I need to master the reef life before a large expense comes
Thanks again everyone

I have also attached a photo of the tank . As well as the duncon and leather and gsp. I wish I could get better photos based on blue lighting

16359458660107527152908956216647.jpg 1635945879991610110223747924283.jpg 16359458898594877229678128145340.jpg 16359458995193384003092911563243.jpg
 
Rodi water will help, make the water better condition and coral will be more happy, my leather looks like yours from time to time and will shed and look better then it did(I’m new to this and just what I’ve noticed with my leather) some time my clove flowers don’t open when the flow is a little to high. If you changed the lights recently with better lights it could be coral trying to adjust to the more powerful lights. I just started this hobby also and want to go bigger but learning still just as you mention.
 
No I use the tap water but I use the primer prior to adding . The LFS tested it and they said that it should be no problem
That is usually the standard answer LFS give. I would get an RODI system if you plan on keeping coral.
 
That is usually the standard answer LFS give. I would get an RODI system if you plan on keeping coral.
I second this, rodi is a must have if your going to take it serious and provide for the livestock as best as possible. I got my rodi unit from BRS, make sure to check the water/waste ratio get one that doesn’t waste a ton of water, make sure your rodi has the di-ionizer cartridge.
 
No I use the tap water but I use the primer prior to adding . The LFS tested it and they said that it should be no problem
Your LFS has no clue what they are doing then, that’s one huge problem and reason your phosphate is out the roof. Targeted range is 0.03!
 
RODI is a must!
How long has tank been setup and running?
Its also possible your LEDS are to high and stressing coral, it takes time to learn the sweet spot though.
 
Thanks everyone for the response.
Instead of a rodi atm couldn't I just purchase the water directly from the lfs in the mean time till more funds are more accessible?
Thinking cost effective atm.
And it's been going for just over 6 months. Corals are new. Almost a month now .. I will attach my lights schedule when iam home later. :)
 
I will go today and get the water . How would you recommend doing this water change with changing out all the water . I don't think I could change it all right away
 
I would do 20-30% water change every day or every other day depends how system responds…. Goal would be to remove the majority in the first week…. Slow changes are better most of the time … I am a new reefer so let’s see what others recommend
 
I will go today and get the water . How would you recommend doing this water change with changing out all the water . I don't think I could change it all right away
Never do 100% changes unless there's an emergency event. At most do 30% 2 or 3 times a week. In your case I would just do a normal 10 or 20% change weekly as usual. Only other concern I see is having zero nitrate. This either points to an algae issue, needing to increase feeding or export is too much. Most think around 5 is a good number. I keep mine around 10 or 15 though.
 
Never do 100% changes unless there's an emergency event. At most do 30% 2 or 3 times a week. In your case I would just do a normal 10 or 20% change weekly as usual. Only other concern I see is having zero nitrate. This either points to an algae issue, needing to increase feeding or export is too much. Most think around 5 is a good number. I keep mine around 10 or 15 though.
Thanks I'll do that :) and with the nitrate how would I increase without over feeding . I thought that is the reason why my phosphates are so high .. water chemistry is incredibly hard to learn lol . I should have paid attention in science class many years ago !
 
No I use the tap water but I use the primer prior to adding . The LFS tested it and they said that it should be no problem
use distilled or RODI, there can be nasty stuff in tap water besides just chlorine that fish cannot tolerate. Also it can irate corals and encourage algae growth
 
I called the supplier tomorrow morning I'm going to pick up 20 gallons and do the gradual water change on the tank . Here is a screenshot of my current lighting set up. It's only softies and leathers. If anyone has better scheduling that would be great .
Is there any chemicals I should be adding to increase nitrates and reducing phosphates . Lowering alkinity aside from switching to RODI water
Thanks again everyone
 

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I called the supplier tomorrow morning I'm going to pick up 20 gallons and do the gradual water change on the tank . Here is a screenshot of my current lighting set up. It's only softies and leathers. If anyone has better scheduling that would be great .
Is there any chemicals I should be adding to increase nitrates and reducing phosphates . Lowering alkinity aside from switching to RODI water
Thanks again everyone
What test kits are you using?
I wouldn't be overly concerned about the lighting schedule. I get the not wanting to buy an rodi right away but I would do it asap, you'd be wasting money on water that could go toward the rodi. Lol I just bought a 269g tank and its sitting in my living room until I have funds available. And I personally believe in the KISS method(keep it simple stupid). As far as the "chemicals" go. Coral if healthy will suck that alk right up. Glad someone asked if you were using rodi.
 
I called the supplier tomorrow morning I'm going to pick up 20 gallons and do the gradual water change on the tank . Here is a screenshot of my current lighting set up. It's only softies and leathers. If anyone has better scheduling that would be great .
Is there any chemicals I should be adding to increase nitrates and reducing phosphates . Lowering alkinity aside from switching to RODI water
Thanks again everyone

Alk of 10 is fine honestly all your levels arent to bad. Even if your phosphate is .5 thats high but not awful.
 
What test kits are you using?
I wouldn't be overly concerned about the lighting schedule. I get the not wanting to buy an rodi right away but I would do it asap, you'd be wasting money on water that could go toward the rodi. Lol I just bought a 269g tank and its sitting in my living room until I have funds available. And I personally believe in the KISS method(keep it simple stupid). As far as the "chemicals" go. Coral if healthy will suck that alk right up. Glad someone asked if you were using rodi.
I definitely hear yah ! And I certainly agree lol I'm going to look into it tomorrow when I go because apparently I can rent to own . I will weigh my options and I'm using the API test kit for saltwater as well as the API reef master. To test my alkalinity I used seachem reef test
I have been reading on the Hanna tester. And I cannot wait to get that one day seems so much simpler:)
 

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