New large build - transfer old live rock?

[ariellemermaid]

With this I would agree with you 100%

But the daunting task of running multiple QT tanks, can also chase many new aquarists(sp?) out of the hobby as well.

Many different ways to reef, choosing what works for you is the hardest part.

True, I’ll add to that the compounded disappointment when you QT a fish for 6 weeks plus (ramping up copper, 2 rounds of prazi) and it still dies in the DT for another reason. Or a coral for 76 days and it flounders in the DT. And of course, carefully QTing and still ending up with vermitid armageddon .

 

[Om84]

Great discussion guys.
This time around I do think I’m going to be buying fish that have already been quarantined and conditioned by the vendor so I don’t have to do it. Problem with that approach is then I can only add fish that are bought from similar vendor down the road otherwise what was the point of buying expensive fish.

Back to the issue of adding small amount of LR from my current display to my new tank.

You guys think just 30 lbs is enough to seed 100-125 more lbs of rock immediately to transfer current fish?

If I do transfer the rock, and don’t add the fish wouldn’t technically the vermetid snail and bristleworm population die out after several weeks since there won’t be available nutrition that cycles their growth and spread? I guess theoretically they will already have what they need on the rock that was transferred in but it should deplete. Correct?

 

[ariellemermaid]

Any amount of rock or bottled bacteria will seed, it’s only a question of how long that will take. More is better, and you could also do both to speed things up. Keep an eye on the old tank though; it has a good balance right now and removing x% of rock will mean the remaining bacteria will have to scale to replace it like a mini cycle potentially.

In terms of going fallow I wouldn’t count on that. Vermitids can be reduced by reducing feeding and nutrients or so I’ve read, but they’re so small I’d bet they can survive for a while. The bristleworms like the vermitids will eventually starve, however, they also have the ability to eat each other which will nourish the remainder for a while. So who knows how long it would take to accomplish that goal. In my case I think I will use the old rock but I’m going to use the out-of-tank opportunity to go to town on the vermitids with super glue; that should help to reduce the total burden.

Down the road with pre-QT fish you could eventually decide to do your own QT and change course, so you’re not tied to that forever. I took the pre-QT risk with my first two clowns from LA diver’s den with the benefit of having a mated pair. However they still had stringy poo but that was easy to treat.

 

[Seneca]

Step 1 get harlequin tusk
Step 2 no vermatids
Step 3 Profit

 

[ariellemermaid]

Step 1 get harlequin tusk
Step 2 no vermatids
Step 3 Profit

$400 on live aquaria and eats snails and crabs… So I’m going to go with a no on that one.

 

[Seneca]

My lfs sells them for around 100 usually. Yes, it eats snails and crabs, though not big ones, my zebra eel does that. I still have lots of snails, mostly collonista that come out at night, and lots of asternias and tiny brittle stars, and bristle worms. It never occurred to me to be particularly attached to snails.

 

[tautog83]

Why dont you get 3 marine pure blocks let them sit in your tank for a couple months then ditch your rock .

 

[Om84]

that’s what I did about 2 weeks ago. Who put them in very tiny nets to lower the chances of bristleworms getting in but I’m sure I’ll still have some. Unfortunately I can’t wait 2 months. How many weeks do I keep them in the tank to ensure I have them seeded?