- Joined
- Sep 25, 2018
- Messages
- 8
- Reaction score
- 6
- What state or country do you live in
- Florida
Hello everyone,
I'm a new member here and I could use some help with my reef tank.
So I have a 75-gallon sumpless tank, which was more of a reef tank at one point, and is about 2 years old now. As it sits, I have 3 PJ cardinals, a harptail blenny, a blue neon goby, 2 ocellaris clownfish, and an orchid dottyback. For invertebrates, I have some xenia coral, a single very small ricordea, and a few left hand and blue leg hermit crabs. Unfortunately, I have lost a couple of inverts along the way (but no fish), including 2 scarlet skunk cleaners which lasted about a year, a serpent star which often had an injury in the central disk, and duncan, blasto, and mushroom corals. After these deaths happened (they were spread out over a few months), the tank has become completely covered in algae. The fish are still content, but I need to make the algae go away. My current parameters are as follows:
Nitrates: about 0 (done with API saltwater test kit)
pH: about 8 (done with API saltwater test kit)
Salinity: 40 ppt (done with a calibrated refractometer, I am working to reduce this salinity to 35 ppt)
Magnesium: 1350 (done with salifert test kit)
Alkalinity: 11.5 (done with salifert test kit)
Calcium: 350 (done with salifert test kit)
I also have the following equipment:
SunSun canister filter
Coralife super skimmer
Current USA Orbit Marine LED
2x Hydor Koralia Nano 425
Current USA dual light T5 HO fixture
So I know that Canister filters have a tendency to become nitrate factories without frequent cleaning (which is something I have found to be difficult with my stand), so my idea is to replace the canister filter with a power filter, do more water changes, and add an additional powerhead (I have some that I got from a friend and I don't know the exact model at this time; I do know they are larger than my current ones though). I need some help to make sure I am doing the right thing. Thanks!
I'm a new member here and I could use some help with my reef tank.
So I have a 75-gallon sumpless tank, which was more of a reef tank at one point, and is about 2 years old now. As it sits, I have 3 PJ cardinals, a harptail blenny, a blue neon goby, 2 ocellaris clownfish, and an orchid dottyback. For invertebrates, I have some xenia coral, a single very small ricordea, and a few left hand and blue leg hermit crabs. Unfortunately, I have lost a couple of inverts along the way (but no fish), including 2 scarlet skunk cleaners which lasted about a year, a serpent star which often had an injury in the central disk, and duncan, blasto, and mushroom corals. After these deaths happened (they were spread out over a few months), the tank has become completely covered in algae. The fish are still content, but I need to make the algae go away. My current parameters are as follows:
Nitrates: about 0 (done with API saltwater test kit)
pH: about 8 (done with API saltwater test kit)
Salinity: 40 ppt (done with a calibrated refractometer, I am working to reduce this salinity to 35 ppt)
Magnesium: 1350 (done with salifert test kit)
Alkalinity: 11.5 (done with salifert test kit)
Calcium: 350 (done with salifert test kit)
I also have the following equipment:
SunSun canister filter
Coralife super skimmer
Current USA Orbit Marine LED
2x Hydor Koralia Nano 425
Current USA dual light T5 HO fixture
So I know that Canister filters have a tendency to become nitrate factories without frequent cleaning (which is something I have found to be difficult with my stand), so my idea is to replace the canister filter with a power filter, do more water changes, and add an additional powerhead (I have some that I got from a friend and I don't know the exact model at this time; I do know they are larger than my current ones though). I need some help to make sure I am doing the right thing. Thanks!

I have bought a Marineland emperor power filter to replace the canister because the thing is a pain to clean and creates a lot of heat, so I was planning on replacing it. I will try to get my hands on a phosphate test kit as soon as I can. Also, my lighting schedule is to turn the T5s on at 6:30 am (before I go to school), have the orbit marine begin turning on about 7:00 am, and turn off the T5s about 6:30 PM when the orbit marine begins turning off. I also make sure to feed my fish only what they are eating, so overfeeding is probably not the issue. WWIII, I do use RO/DI water and I will check for TDS to make sure all is good with that. I also have been manually removing the algae but it has kept growing back. Xavierwally, I will clean and add one of the two new powerheads and then I will see if I need the other one. I don't want to do a blackout because I do not wish to kill my remaining corals (which are pretty much on the brink), but I will see what I can do about reducing the daytime period. I will get more buckets and start doing more regular water changes as well, but some of my CUC members have been dying off recently; I am not sure if I want to replace them right away.

