New QT after display tank ich

[Sethoscar]

• New member, although I've been trolling for a while now. I have a 54 gallon corner that recently had an ich outbreak with one damsel surviving. I've since set up a hospital to treat the damsel, and a second tank for QT. I'm on day 8 of a fishless cycle adding majestic extra strength ammonia to start.
  
  My display tank has been running since march, and fallow since early may. It initially cycled fast with the damsels after 2-3 weeks. My question is can I add one of the bio stars from the recently infected display tank to the bare bottomed empty QT to kick start the cycle without adding any ich to it. And if I do transfer the parasite, how long can it live without substrate or fish?
  
  I would like to add fish within the next 3 weeks, just don't want to shoot myself in the foot by adding bacteria from a recently infected tank. 72 days from fallow will be July 19th, as I used some equipment that may have transferred some ich back to the display tank and pushed back my safe date.
  
  Should I add some food instead and wait, or can I get away with a bio wheel to add bacteria now?
  
  I've been adding stability, but no change in my ~3 ppm ammonia.
  
  Thanks in advance.

 

[aykwm]

Weird to have a wipeout from ich, are you sure it wasn't velvet? Regardless they are very similar in terms of treatment or life cycle, although velvet is much faster.
So for the fallow period you need to ensure no fish is in the DT for a period of 76 days if it was ich, if its velvet its a bit less, but I would rather do the 76 days period to be sure. Since you know the tank is infected you can't transfer anything wet from DT to QT or hospital, it will have high probability of carrying the parasite with it, so unfortunatly you can't use anything from DT back to the QT except if 76 has past without contact with fish or you disinfect it and leave it to dry for 24 hours, which will defeat the purpose.

I would suggest to go with the live nitrifying bacteria bottles that are usually refrigerated when you get them from LFS, like one and only or turbo start, although many debate if they are really beneficial, but I tried them several times and they usually cycle my tank within few days, given that they have a place to populate.
You didn't mention any thing about using a bio filter like sponge filter or hob with sponge. If you don't have one you need to add a porous filter that has not been in the DT to ensure no parasite transfer occur, this is necessary to ensure bacteria has place to populate. Although bacteria can populate on glass or other surfaces of the tank, their numbers will be so low they can barely process ammonia hence that might explain failure of cycling.

 

[Sethoscar]

Thanks for the quick response.

I do have HOB filters with new media in both hospital and Qt. Just the bio pellets that come with the aqua clear line.

So other than dosing straight ammonia, using something for bacteria other than stability would be helpful? What brand have you had success with?

I figured using a bio star from the display would be bad, just curious what the timeframe would be knowing I may or may not be introducing a parasite to the empty qt. Not my preferred method just looking at options.

I'm not sure it was ich, treating for ich and velvet, using ich-x. Went the safe route of 10-11 weeks fallow just in case. Invertebrates and corals are doing great, even having mushrooms reproducing during this time. So it's definitely something fish related.

 

[Sethoscar]

I also raised the temp to around 86°, and left a couple inches at the top of the 10 gallon tank so the hang on back filter would create some oxygenation in the tank.

 

[aykwm]

You will need something that mentions Live nitrifying bacteria, I had success with both one and only and turbo start
http://www.drtimsaquatics.com/saltwater-aquarium-products#one
http://fritzaquatics.com/product/fritzzyme-turbostart-900-saltwater/

Make sure you get the one designed for saltwater, as freshwater option is also available. I would advise to get it from LFS since it requires refrigeration and might spoil if it got to room temperature.

HOB will be enough to get the tank cycled. If you suspect ich then I suggest running it fallow for 76 days.
I don't recommend raising the temperature, for tank 76 days fallow should do the trick and raising temperature might affect corals and stress them, while in QT raising temperature will decrease dissolved oxygen in tank affecting the bacteria and the fish.

 

[ngoodermuth]

Dr tims and biospira are two other well known brands of bottled bacteria. I've used biospira with success.

Also, get an ammonia alert badge for both tanks and do a water change if it's anything but yellow. I've had to throw together emergency hospital tanks without any filters or media and successfully managed ammonia with frequent water changes until cycled.

 

[Brew12]

My question is can I add one of the bio stars from the recently infected display tank to the bare bottomed empty QT to kick start the cycle without adding any ich to it. And if I do transfer the parasite, how long can it live without substrate or fish?

I didn't see this answered but I would not add the bio star. The issue is if any Ich cysts have formed on the bio star. If it has, it could hatch up to 72 days later. Once hatched, it will starve out in a matter of a day or 2. Raising the temp could speed that process up, but I don't think it has been quantified in any useable manner.

 

[Sethoscar]

I just ordered a bottle of Dr. Tims - we'll see how it works out. Thanks for the replies!