New Red Sea Max 250!

Things to know about coral. Very general. The softer the coral the lower flow it needs/can handle. Some good starting corals are mushrooms and zoanthids. They are usually lower light.

I am unfimiliar with the lighting in those tank. What lighting does it have?
 
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[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]234W T5 linear (1 watt/ litre)
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[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]117W 10,000K/117W Actinic

This is what the specifications say. It is a 66 gallon tank, and we keep our house at 72. I set the water temp to 79 so I'm assuming I'm in the clear for the chiller.

Does it matter where corals are placed, other than taking flow into consideration? I see all the frags for sale at the LFS and they seem to be connected to a "root". Is this removed before placing the coral, or is this what roots it to the rock?[/FONT]
 
I think the root you are talking about is a frag plug. these are sold so they will easily sit in a frag rock or holes in rock. Placement of the corals will depend on three main things. One that its far enough away from another coral to not sting or get stung by it. two is flow and the third is light. For the corals that require less light they would go towards the bottom of the tank and the ones that need more light would go towards the top.
 
I will have to do my research on corals then! How long after adding livestock can coral be added? What coral do you recommend to begin with?
 
you can add hardy coral as soon as your cycle is done. I would wait a little bit before adding anything to high end or delicate until you have a little more time under your belt.

A good coral to start with is mushrooms (I dont really like them) I usually go for a Frogspawn or torch or hammer. They will add movement and color.
 
Toadstools and leathers are a good option to start with as well.


Mike D "like the beastie boys" Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
About the sand moving...usually it will start to develop a bio-film throughout it and become more stationary as time goes on. Also as mentioned before, 18lbs of rock isn't going to provide a lot of filtration. If you like the minimal rockscape look you can always add a sump with a bunch of extra rock. If not then you could greatly benefit by adding rock to the display. At this point you already have live rock and I would highly recommend using dry rock for the remainder. Its less expensive and in a few weeks it will work just as well and in a few months it will look the same too. Marco Rocks sell good quality dry rock if you are looking for it. Coral can be added as soon as the tank is cycled(ammonia 0, nititrites 0), but as others mentioned you may not want to add any of the more demanding corals until you have a good handle on water chemistry and how to keep it stable. A good starting place is always your softies such as mushrooms, zoas, xenia, leathers, and some LPS (large stony polyps). Hopefully getting into the hobby you do a lot of research as this will definitely make things go smoother, saving you money and heartache in the long run. Not sure if you are running a skimmer, but for that size tank I would highly recommend one or if you prefer you could use alternative means (do some research). the number one piece of advice I can offer is to use good water. This mean RO/DI water or its equivalent. If you can't spring for the purchase of an RO/DI system yet ($130 or less for a used one) you can usually get water from a LFS or you can get distilled drinking water from grocery stores (usually most expensive). Using tap water with conditioners or without is a sure way to lead to some common beginner issues so definitely look into your best options for getting good quality. Welcome to R2R and happy reefing!
 
About the sand moving...usually it will start to develop a bio-film throughout it and become more stationary as time goes on. Also as mentioned before, 18lbs of rock isn't going to provide a lot of filtration. If you like the minimal rockscape look you can always add a sump with a bunch of extra rock. If not then you could greatly benefit by adding rock to the display. At this point you already have live rock and I would highly recommend using dry rock for the remainder. Its less expensive and in a few weeks it will work just as well and in a few months it will look the same too. Marco Rocks sell good quality dry rock if you are looking for it. Coral can be added as soon as the tank is cycled(ammonia 0, nititrites 0), but as others mentioned you may not want to add any of the more demanding corals until you have a good handle on water chemistry and how to keep it stable. A good starting place is always your softies such as mushrooms, zoas, xenia, leathers, and some LPS (large stony polyps). Hopefully getting into the hobby you do a lot of research as this will definitely make things go smoother, saving you money and heartache in the long run. Not sure if you are running a skimmer, but for that size tank I would highly recommend one or if you prefer you could use alternative means (do some research). the number one piece of advice I can offer is to use good water. This mean RO/DI water or its equivalent. If you can't spring for the purchase of an RO/DI system yet ($130 or less for a used one) you can usually get water from a LFS or you can get distilled drinking water from grocery stores (usually most expensive). Using tap water with conditioners or without is a sure way to lead to some common beginner issues so definitely look into your best options for getting good quality. Welcome to R2R and happy reefing!


I wish someone at our store had expressed how important NOT using tapwater to fill the tank is. Ignorantly we filled it with the garden hose and added conditioners and salt. Since dumping the tank and refilling is out of the question, will the water changes with RO/DI water improve the water quality over time? We now have 45lbs of rock, does that sound substantial or should we be looking into getting more?

As far as placing the coral, we have some great peices of rock with lots of holes that are good for the plugs, but we also have some flat rocks. How would we go about placing coral on the flat ones? Will they eventually attach to the rock?
 
Yes water changes with RO/DI will fix the issue with tap water with additives, but in order to prevent algae growth you are probably going to want to do several (2-3) large ones 25-50% to get anything harmful out. Also at this point I would recommend letting the tank cycle with the lights off since you are going to be doing water changes to reduce nitrates after the cycle anyway and without light algae can't grow. For the future I always recommend to stick away from additives/conditioners and only add things that corals use like light, calcium, and alkalinity. As you become more knowledgeable you may expand to trace elements and things, but personally I still take a minimalistic approach.

45lbs of rock sounds like a good starting point. A general rule of thumb is 1.5lbs per gallon, however this all depend on how porous the rock is and what other means of filtration you have. I use 50lbs in my 60 gallon of MarcoRocks dry rock (its very porous) and have recently added some dead coral skeletons (from a local reefer) to my sump.

About the corals: most of your starter corals are going to be softies. Most softies are attached to something such as a piece of LR (live rock) or a plug. The plugs you can stick in holes as you have noted, but for the flat rocks it may be best to set the corals that are attached to LR on top. If they dont want to stay in place your LFS probably sells a 2 part putty epoxy marketed specifically for attaching corals to rocks. Branching LPS such as hammers frogspawns and things usually have some branch that you can stick in a hole or epoxy to a flat surface. SPS, which you may want to stay clear from until you have a little more experience with water chemistry, usually come on plugs which many people will brake them off and then superglue to a small piece of LR so it can have a more substantial base to move around as it grows. Super glue gel can be used in all these methods of placing coral and is a reefers inside the tank 'duct tape' and best friend.
 
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Most of the reefers try to use 1lb of rock per gallon. I have looked at this system and I didn't see a place that a lot of rock could be added to the sump. I would suggest getting as much rock in the tank as you can and still be happy with the look of it.
 
I have 90+ lbs of pukani rock in my 120 gallon and more in my sump.
 
Loki2902 said:
Most of the reefers try to use 1lb of rock per gallon. I have looked at this system and I didn't see a place that a lot of rock could be added to the sump. I would suggest getting as much rock in the tank as you can and still be happy with the look of it.

There isn't any room for rock at all in the filtration system, so it will all have to be inside the tank. I'll get some more soon. I want to wait until our LFS gets some new pieces in. If I add more live rock after the tank has done its initial cycle, will I have to wait another week before adding livestock?
 
Well you would have to wait until it cycles again. If you add 20 more lbs of cured live rock there shouldn't be a cycle. I would wait 3-4 days and test the ammonia. If its 0 add the fish.
 
3-4 days after you add the rock. Assuming it has already cycled. :)
 
Loki2902 said:
3-4 days after you add the rock. Assuming it has already cycled. :)

It hasn't cycled yet, so maybe adding it before it cycles is what I'll do. Thanks for all of your help!!
 
Yeah add it before the cycle is over or started. You won't/can't really mess up a cycle. You're welcome. Ask any questions you have. :) we like to answer them.
 
Ok, another question... As we were looking at the live rock today we noticed these small red coral-esq looking things in a few places. They were not there when we put the rock into the tank. They are about the size of a pearl with swaying tentacles. Any idea what this could be? Hubby noticed one earlier that was protruding about 2" and covered in tentacles, but its not there anymore...so i guess these things crawl?
 
It could be aiptasia or majano anemones which are pests. You want to kill them. This can be done with aiptasia-X, syringe with boiling water and lemon juice, kalk paste (mrs.wages pickling lime works too) and another way that I can't recall at the moment.
 
SeahorseKeeper said:
It could be aiptasia or majano anemones which are pests. You want to kill them. This can be done with aiptasia-X, syringe with boiling water and lemon juice, kalk paste (mrs.wages pickling lime works too) and another way that I can't recall at the moment.

I googled some images and it doesn't look like either. I will post a picture. Psh, just my luck!
 

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