New RO/DI unit not producing water?!

[AmatuerAuer]

I installed my Typhoon 5 stage RO/DI from Air Water Ice yesterday evening and it is not producing any RO/DI water.

I have it set up in the basement and took the water line from the ice maker (we don't use) and ran it from the copper pipe to the filter.

The first 3 stages filled quickly enough but the DI canister didn't fill, I went to bed, woke up and the canister is filled half way but no water is exiting the unit.

The waste line is draining fine.

Is this a pressure issue? Should I move the unit to connect to the washer line through a splitter?? I do not have a pressure gauge on the unit so I am uncertain what pressure is feeding the filter.

Any help or advice is appreciated!

-AA

 

[AZDesertRat]

I thought all theTyphoons had a pressure gauge, my old Typhoon III did? If the system has a flush kit, is the flush valve in the closed position? If the icemaker was installed using a self piercing saddle valve make sure the needle fully pierced the line then is backed fully out so it is wide open.
If you still suspect it is a pressure issue go to the hardware and buy a pressure gauge and hose bib adapter and see what it is at the washing machine cold water supply.

 

[AmatuerAuer]

Thanks for the prompt reply AZ. There is no pressure gauge, the fast flush is open which is likely the issue. I've attached the diagram.

If the flush valve should be turned off my question would be where does the waste water leave the system?

 

[AZDesertRat]

The flush valve should be in the closed or normal position. You only open it for 30 seconds or so at the end of making water to flush any excess TDS over tap water levels out so the membrane doesn't sit soaking in it when not in use. While this oundsgrea,in actual practice they don't do much for you and I feel a waste of money but if it makes you feel good use it.

 

[AmatuerAuer]

If the valve is closed how would the waste water leave the system?

Looking at the other page it looks like the unit does not include a DI bypass and RO only valve.

Would I install a DI bypass in between the RO filter and DI canister? Wouldn't the DI bypass also be the RO only valve??

Thanks very much AZ

 

[ca1ore]

If the valve is closed how would the waste water leave the system?

When you close the fast flush valve, the flow restrictor part remains open, providing the correct back pressure, so you get the proper ratio of RODI to waste water.

 

[AZDesertRat]

All the flush kit does is bypass the flow restrictor to increase the velocity around the membrane, in theory it scours the surface and helps clean it. When in the closed position the waste stream goes through the flow restrictor at a rate of around 4:1, waste to treated. It still comes out the same waste line, just at a slower pace.

A DI bypass is an excellent addition and one that actually is proven to do something. It's as simple as a tee and ball valve installed between the RO membrane and the DI filter which you open up and flush down the drain each time you start the system until the TDS creep, on the treated side of the RO membrane not the waste side thus the difference, drops to say 2% of your tap water TDS to extend the life of your DI resin. The flush kit is only on the waste side so does not flush out TDS creep.

 

[AmatuerAuer]

Understood. I will install a DI bypass valve this evening. The DI bypass valve would be excreting RO water post-filter so why have two valves as listed in the second image.

Flush valve - installed
Product valve - installed
DI bypass - will install
RO only valve - same as DI no?

 

[AZDesertRat]

The RO only valve is if you want to use RO only water for drinking, cooking, icemaker etc. If you have a pressure tank and drinking faucet you would want this line installed with a check valve past the ball valve so the pressurized RO is available for drinking but cannot get back out to the DI since it will contain some TDS creep due to the nature of how the pressure tank works.

Look at this diagram and note the placement of the check valve on the drinking water circuit:
http://spectrapure.com/huds/4-STAGE-DWK-RODI-NAG.pdf

It makes it really easy to justify a good RO/DI system when you get dual use out of it. We love the great tasting RO water and the clear ice cubes it makes when hooked to the frig. No more buying all those throwaway plastic water bottles, just get a good one and refill it over and over.

 

[AmatuerAuer]

Excellent you have been very helpful!

I will install the DI bypass today, close the flush valve and see what we get from product line.

I have no need for RO water. If/when that changes I will just use the DI bypass line to fill water jugs, or check the RO membrane's performance.

Any handheld TDS meter recommendations?

 

[AZDesertRat]

HM Digital TDS-4TM is around $25 and ATC temperature compensated and has a built in digital thermometer which is very useful. The TDS-3 and AP-1 are very similar. Do not buy the TDS-EZ which is not ATC.

 

[AmatuerAuer]

Closed the flush valve and installed the DI bypass valve.

It's producing but extremely slowly. Better described as periods dripping quickly and periods with no water coming out at all.

The flow into the DI chamber from the RO canister is also a slow drip.

I didn't check all four ASOV lines for pressure - that's my next step.

The DI canister fills to less than half way then slowly drains to about one inch (where I'm pointing). Then takes a while to gradually fill.

I would think the product flow should not be sporadic..so I assume something is wrong.

 

[AmatuerAuer]

The output over night was virtually zero.

I confirmed the self piercing valve was open fully and the fast flush is closed fully but still producing some waste water at a constant.

The DI canister appears to be staying at round a 1" depth (where my finger is pointing haha).

I am going to buy a water pressure gauge today and check all the lines this evening starting with pressure input, then pressure entering RO unit then pressure leaving the RO unit and finally.

Mean while, any ideas??

 

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Things that may affect your water production- pressure and water temperature......
Make sure water is all the way on at the source, sounds silly, but it has happened.

 

[AmatuerAuer]

I rerouted my supply line directly to the washer plumbing (cold water line) system and the pressure is much greater. The DI out put is strong.

Still need to find a better connector. This one is leaky and not efficient