New t5 light

ajhudson15

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So I am switching from radions to a 6bulb still fixture. Someone told me that I need to run the new t5 bulbs for a few days off of the tank because when they are new they can be a little strong. Does anyone else do this?
 
So I am switching from radions to a 6bulb still fixture. Someone told me that I need to run the new t5 bulbs for a few days off of the tank because when they are new they can be a little strong. Does anyone else do this?

Quite the opposite. They actually get stronger as they burn in. A good 20-30% stronger. This takes about 100 hours. Then they gradually lose strength and shift spectrum over a 9-18 month period
 
So I don't need to worry about burning them for a day or two before I use them. I was just worried about my sps and switching from led to t5
 
The LEDs are likely to be more efficient (photosynthetically speaking) than the T5s, so a slight decrease in PPFD (PAR) is acceptable. Use of a PAR meter is highly recommended, otherwise it's a shot in the dark (or light, as the case may be.)
 
Quite the opposite. They actually get stronger as they burn in. A good 20-30% stronger. This takes about 100 hours. Then they gradually lose strength and shift spectrum over a 9-18 month period
Interesting comment about the initial PAR increase. Can you provide details?
 
I just don't care for my radions. I have read allot of people have better results with sps using t5 instead. I don't think par will be an issue dive the fixture will only be about 6" off the water inside a canopy
 
Interesting comment about the initial PAR increase. Can you provide details?

I’ll dig around. 20% was an estimation. Mostly hobbbyist readings from par meters of bulbs getting brighter as they burn in, especially actinics. There was a big thread floating around when the new line of giesemann bulbs came out where the spectrum and par were measured before and after burn in and comparisons between them and their ati counterparts.
 
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/g...son-pics-par-and-a-whole-mess-of-data.200357/

I’ll amend my statement. I believe the difference on the ati actinic was what stuck with me. It looks like the rest of the bulbs tend to be all over the place. ATI bulbs seem to really hold their par stable from fresh to 100 hour burn in minus the actinic which really jumps. Giesemann bulbs look like they lost intensity in this experiment.

OP. Take note of correction.

That being said. I don’t bother with any sort of special treatment when changing bulbs. T5ho has been my preference for a while. I just change my bulbs 2 at a time to not shock the tank with the spectral shift. 2 bulbs every week and I never notice any negative response. No need to have additional burn in fixtures or do anything like that. You should be pleasantly surprised at how little you have to actually do with your t5 lights. They just work. You don’t have to mess with them a lot.
 
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/g...son-pics-par-and-a-whole-mess-of-data.200357/

I’ll amend my statement. I believe the difference on the ati actinic was what stuck with me. It looks like the rest of the bulbs tend to be all over the place. ATI bulbs seem to really hold their par stable from fresh to 100 hour burn in minus the actinic which really jumps. Giesemann bulbs look like they lost intensity in this experiment.

OP. Take note of correction.

That being said. I don’t bother with any sort of special treatment when changing bulbs. T5ho has been my preference for a while. I just change my bulbs 2 at a time to not shock the tank with the spectral shift. 2 bulbs every week and I never notice any negative response. No need to have additional burn in fixtures or do anything like that. You should be pleasantly surprised at how little you have to actually do with your t5 lights. They just work. You don’t have to mess with them a lot.
Thanks! I tested two fluorescent lamps (as well as a couple of metal halide lamps) and found output decreased during the first week of use, and continued to decrease over the time course of the experiments. But what is valid in one set of circumstances isn't always applicable to other instances. My observations are based to T8 lamps fired by an IceCap ballast some 20 years ago. Thanks for your reply!
 
Just put the T5s on. Turn the down a few hours if it makes you feel better.

I do not do anything when I change my MH bulbs and that can increase output 20% in just a few seconds. The coral is fine.

Most of the current day burning issues is with spectrum, not intensity... the spectrum in the T5s is a lot better, IMO, and you should not have any problems.
 

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