New tank cycle

[Linoss17]

I’m currently on my third going to fourth week of cycling and my ammonia reads .25 and nitrites is a deep purple kinda hard to tell which one it is and my nitrates is about 10-20 ppm and it’s been stuck like this for about a week. I did a 25% wc then a 50% 2 days after and it’s still reading the same levels has my cycle stopped due to high nitrates I read on another forum high nitrites can cause for the process to slow. Any advice or comments would be greatly appreciated !!!

 

[Linoss17]

I’ve already microbacter xlm and ammonia drops to 2ppm. Nothing I was happening for the first week and a half so I added Dr Tim’s one and only and my ammonia went down but my nitrites and nitrates sky rocketed would the bio spira overload my tank and stall it out if I add more nitrifying bacteria I haven’t ran any type of filter media or my skimmer for the whole process it’s all been an empty empty hob filter to get the water moving and I also used live sand and rock. The tank glass looks like it has something on it it’s still clearing but it looks like little particles of sand or salt on it I was going to scrape it off but I haven’t I’ve only done the water changes.

 

[Jekyl]

I’m currently on my third going to fourth week of cycling and my ammonia reads .25 and nitrites is a deep purple kinda hard to tell which one it is and my nitrates is about 10-20 ppm and it’s been stuck like this for about a week. I did a 25% wc then a 50% 2 days after and it’s still reading the same levels has my cycle stopped due to high nitrates I read on another forum high nitrites can cause for the process to slow. Any advice or comments would be greatly appreciated !!!

API tests right? Do a large water change to get nitrate in order and toss the API ammonia test in the trash. Then get a fish or 2.

 

[Jekyl]

Welcome to R2R!

 

[mdb_talon]

Ammonia going down and nitrites and nitrates skyrocketing is what you would expect in a cycle. If the tank is processing ammonia quicky then you are good to proceed with adding fish. Agree on doing large WC first to get those nitrates at lower level.

 

[Snoopy 67]

I don't know why people do a water change during cycling.
It only interrupts everything. Let it finish then do a water change if you need to.

 

[vetteguy53081]

API tests right? Do a large water change to get nitrate in order and toss the API ammonia test in the trash. Then get a fish or 2.

Throw in trash ?? Theyre so UNRELIABLE and garbage despite what some argue- Dont throw in trash but rather fireplace

 

[Jekyl]

I don't know why people do a water change during cycling.
It only interrupts everything. Let it finish then do a water change if you need to.

Because his tank isn't cycling. It's like every other post on here with people using API tests. Everything that needs to happen before fish has been accomplished except getting nitrates to a manageable level.

 

[vetteguy53081]

I’m currently on my third going to fourth week of cycling and my ammonia reads .25 and nitrites is a deep purple kinda hard to tell which one it is and my nitrates is about 10-20 ppm and it’s been stuck like this for about a week. I did a 25% wc then a 50% 2 days after and it’s still reading the same levels has my cycle stopped due to high nitrates I read on another forum high nitrites can cause for the process to slow. Any advice or comments would be greatly appreciated !!!

A cycle is called a cycle when two things occur. . . . when ammonia rises then falls and holds a steady reading of Zero for at least 5 days and also nitrate rises and falls and holds at 20 or below- you are cycled.
Did you add ammonia chloride or something to increase ammonia initially ?
Being that you are using API kits , I would suggest taking a water sample to a trusted LFS and see what numbers they come up with and to compare with yours then you will know where your readings are at.
A typical cycle period is 14-21 days and you want to stock very slowly to allow denitrifying bacteria to keep up with new bioload as tank matures
Adding 1.5ml per ten gallons daily for next 2 weeks will assure bacteria is sufficient and supported.

 

[Linoss17]

A cycle is called a cycle when two significant actions occur. . . . when ammonia rises thn falls and achieves a steady reading of Zero for at least 5 days and when nitrate rises and falls and holds at 20 or below- you are cycled.
Did you add ammonia chloride or something to increase ammonia initially ?
Being that you are using API kits , I would suggest taking a water sample to a trusted LFS and see what numbers they come up with and to compare with yours then you will know where your readings are at.
A typical cycle period is 14-21 days and you want to stock very slowly to allow denitrifying bacteria to keep up with new bioload as tank matures
Adding 1.5ml per ten gallons daily for next 2 weeks will assure bacteria is sufficient and supported.

Yes I added 2 ppm ammonia chloride to start and it turned into nitrite my ammonia is .25 right now and my nitrite is a deep purple about 5ppm and my nitrate is measuring at 10 ppm I have no mechanical filtration during this process I have my job filter empty it’s running the water and my protein skimmer is off. My tank temp is 80 degrees Fahrenheit, the salinity is 1.026. My nitrites haven’t gone down in a week I just don’t want my tank to stall out during the process. Should I have my filter media in while doing the process and have my skimmer on?

 

[V A R I A N T]

Your cycle isn’t stuck. You introduced bottled bacteria to assist with converting ammonia to nitrite. This phase of the cycle is complete. Additionally, you introduced bottled bacteria to help with converting nitrite to nitrate. This bacteria does not reproduce at the same rate as ammonia to nitrite, so it takes longer. If you are using API test kits (I don’t see you confirm this, assumed by other responders) then a reading of .25 is normal for this test kit as it measures both NH3 and NH4 ammonia presence in the water.

 

[vetteguy53081]

Yes I added 2 ppm ammonia chloride to start and it turned into nitrite my ammonia is .25 right now and my nitrite is a deep purple about 5ppm and my nitrate is measuring at 10 ppm I have no mechanical filtration during this process I have my job filter empty it’s running the water and my protein skimmer is off. My tank temp is 80 degrees Fahrenheit, the salinity is 1.026. My nitrites haven’t gone down in a week I just don’t want my tank to stall out during the process. Should I have my filter media in while doing the process and have my skimmer on?

Suggestion:
Take a water sample to a store that does NOT use Api kits and compare readings- then you'll know
I will never trust a $7 badge or $25 master kit to sustain hundreds of dollars in livestock.
If the ammonia is zero and nitrates are 20 or below, you are cycled

 

[Jekyl]

Suggestion:
Take a water sample to a store that does NOT use Api kits and compare readings- then you'll know
I will never trust a $7 badge or $25 master kit to sustain hundreds of dollars in livestock.
If the ammonia is zero and nitrates are 20 or below, you are cycled

Agree with this. The API tests we expect you are using are giving false positives. There's always going g to be "some" ammonia in the system as the conversion isn't instantaneous. That is what the test is showing you. As for their nitrite test, it picks on on the nitrate I'm the system if I remember correctly. @brandon429 can probably explain better.

 

[Linoss17]

Suggestion:
Take a water sample to a store that does NOT use Api kits and compare readings- then you'll know
I will never trust a $7 badge or $25 master kit to sustain hundreds of dollars in livestock.
If the ammonia is zero and nitrates are 20 or below, you are cycled

These are my current readings

 

[Linoss17]

These are my current readings

 

[Jekyl]

I still stand with my first post. If still unsure do as @vetteguy53081 recommended and have your local fish store test the water for you, making sure they don't use API tests.

If you plan on having coral, you'll need to upgrade to salifert, red sea, or hanna tests before you do.

 

[vetteguy53081]

I still stand with my first post. If still unsure do as @vetteguy53081 recommended and have your local fish store test the water for you, making sure they don't use API tests.

If you plan on having coral, you'll need to upgrade to salifert, red sea, or hanna tests before you do.

Yes- take a water sample to a store that does NOT use Api kits and compare readings- then you'll know
I will never trust a $7 badge or $25 master kit to sustain hundreds of dollars in livestock.