New Tank Cycling Question

[brandon429]

The documented lag time for that kit, that color, to work back down to yellow green/common .25 is ten days. I want to see how predictable that degradation rate is here in the presence of fish and daily feed thank you so much for making a thread we can really reference in other studies including invasion mitigation/opt out today vs tomorrow.

the masses would have let that invasion stay and grow and fight it only via water actions like testing for phosphate and nitrate using similar methods. this way is better in every way, that's a gem of a tank whipped into shape.

 

[MB_Reef]

I checked the ammonia yesterday (2/9) and it produced the same result as today. Can't remember what it was before that or if I even checked it.

Feeding Rod's frozen original food. Small amounts once daily. About dime size.

 

[brandon429]

that's a fine baseline to see right now since life started 4 days ago. I predict fully that a tuned seneye would read thousandths or at max hundredths ppm and without that gear we can watch the fish to infer


I think it's safe water right now, but whatever adulterates api like that holds for ten days on average making it look like those fish cooked this whole time


only they never act that way...burned fish won't eat, have inflamed gills, pant and hover at the top or bottom in clear harm, have reddened + inflamed gills, high opercular rate, like any higher order animal in liver failure they don't just continue on normally each day

burned fish show very marked symptoms the disease forum routinely encounters.

all searchable stalled cycle threads are like yours, test kits vs symptoms in animals that would never be symptomless while being burned- we need to study that subtle pattern to evolve cycling science.

 

[Garf]

@brandon429

Attached are pictures and video with all white lights.

I will hold course with changes and can post updates. Is there any other parameters that are helpful?

Was the anemone bleached when you got it, or is that a new development?
Is the rock on the right from the other tank?
I’d be making sure I’ve got some new saltwater warmed up, ready to go.

 

[MB_Reef]

Was the anemone bleached when you got it, or is that a new development?
Is the rock on the right from the other tank?
I’d be making sure I’ve got some new saltwater warmed up, ready to go.

It was like that when I got it. Rock on the right was from a lfs. Is something wrong with the anemone?

 

[brandon429]

Bright lighting, low tank nutrient = anemone stress.

Anemones are not ammonia indicators they are expected to die in new white tanks lacking all biome that supports them

He's saying a decaying anemone can wreck the tank, if it dies must remove it before rot. If it bleaches white fully that's not going to poison your tank but rotting anemone flesh will

you could trade it back before it goes if you want, if you want to rehab it you need to be feeding it well and doing your tank exporting water changes to not let it's waste + food command back up your invasion potential as the rock is maturing. I'd rather have a group of candy corals than that for a new tank/more likely to look great and work fine.

 

[MB_Reef]

Bright lighting, low tank nutrient = anemone stress.

Anemones are not ammonia indicators they are expected to die in new white tanks lacking all biome that supports them

He's saying a decaying anemone can wreck the tank, if it dies must remove it before rot. If it bleaches white fully that's not going to poison your tank but rotting anemone flesh will

you could trade it back before it goes if you want, if you want to rehab it you need to be feeding it well and doing your tank exporting water changes to not let it's waste + food command back up your invasion potential as the rock is maturing. I'd rather have a group of candy corals than that for a new tank/more likely to look great and work fine.

Is something wrong with the anemone then? The previous pictures (before the all white light) pictures are is my current lighting.

 

[brandon429]

its bleached or in process of bleaching, it should be dark nice colors, like a coral all fluorescent

if you bought it that way and it didn't downgrade to that clear color, your options are feed it to bring it back if possible/it's a rehab side job you're taking on + change water assertively so the extra feed doesn't pollute, or just trade it back now for an easier common coral. if you bought it colorful then it downgraded to that, I would not keep it/tank isn't mature enough.

it is quite a rehab job too, not simple. if that thing dies/detaches and rots when you're gone for two days it could kill that nano. in the anemone forum, poster Orion shows advanced rehab techniques where a snipped tentacle from a living anemone is fed to that one, to promote the right zoox strains within-feeding does not always regenerate them before they fall off and die. if it was my tank I'd prefer a starter coral

 

[MB_Reef]

its bleached or in process of bleaching, it should be dark nice colors, like a coral all fluorescent

if you bought it that way and it didn't downgrade to that clear color, your options are feed it to bring it back if possible/it's a rehab side job you're taking on + change water assertively so the extra feed doesn't pollute, or just trade it back now for an easier common coral. if you bought it colorful then it downgraded to that, I would not keep it/tank isn't mature enough.

it is quite a rehab job too, not simple. if that thing dies/detaches and rots when you're gone for two days it could kill that nano. in the anemone forum, poster Orion shows advanced rehab techniques where a snipped tentacle from a living anemone is fed to that one, to promote the right zoox strains within-feeding does not always regenerate them before they fall off and die. if it was my tank I'd prefer a starter coral

Im confused why the lfs wouldn’t have said something when I bought it? I just assumed this was the color it was supposed to be.

 

[brandon429]

who knows, maybe it looked different to them under extreme blues/ not sure. you need to pretty much instruct them on procedure from here on out vs ask just to prevent future issues from them. meaning if you're in the shop to buy something don't let them have much input, just direct them to what you need and have them bag it up etc. the forums will help you carve down selections so the pet store isn't making the referrals. usually they do well but in white light that's a very borderline bleached out anemone that is likely to starve since its zoox are missing and feed isn't directed right at it/silverside fish etc

anemone rehab takes some notable work and tank reinforcements though it's not impossible it can survive and color back up. I give it a 20% chance of surviving. as long as it sits there attached it's not going to poison your water but if it turns loose and rots it sure could.

 

[MB_Reef]

its bleached or in process of bleaching, it should be dark nice colors, like a coral all fluorescent

if you bought it that way and it didn't downgrade to that clear color, your options are feed it to bring it back if possible/it's a rehab side job you're taking on + change water assertively so the extra feed doesn't pollute, or just trade it back now for an easier common coral. if you bought it colorful then it downgraded to that, I would not keep it/tank isn't mature enough.

it is quite a rehab job too, not simple. if that thing dies/detaches and rots when you're gone for two days it could kill that nano. in the anemone forum, poster Orion shows advanced rehab techniques where a snipped tentacle from a living anemone is fed to that one, to promote the right zoox strains within-feeding does not always regenerate them before they fall off and die. if it was my tank I'd prefer a starter coral

I called lfs and they said that the color is normal and that this long tentacle anenome was an “ultra” color or “ultra white” long tentacle. They said it was a normal color but they said they also come in darker colors as well.

 

[MB_Reef]

I called lfs and they said that the color is normal and that this long tentacle anenome was an “ultra” color or “ultra white” long tentacle. They said it was a normal color but they said they also come in darker colors as well.

This picture was the day I got it.

 

[brandon429]

hey that's cool then if they're that specific maybe it is, cool deal. my reef is so small I could never keep one of those so if white strains are out there that's fine I wouldn't really ever know or be shopping for them. judge it based on attachment in case what they're saying isn't true

it sure looked bleached though initially. I can see some light fluorescence in it but not much in that pic above...

all anemones like that need fed though, that's a requisite meat eater and not just fish waste... it needs meat given to it/quarter chunks of silverside frozen fish are common, check with the anemones forum. it would be neat to see if the anemones and clownfish forum agree on the speciation stated

if a closeup shot from today is missing that electric green and is all white that still doesn't seem ideal to me/to be determined in a couple weeks either way.

 

[MB_Reef]

@brandon429

Today's Readings are higher:
Ammonia: ~2ppm
Nitrite: ~1ppm
Nitrate: ~20ppm

Clown Fish are acting normal for the most part... 1 Clown Fish did not eat very much, if any at all.

 

[brandon429]

I learned the other day from a poster to watch out for bullying in them, sometimes at night or at u apparent times, just a little variable to watch out for.

 

[MB_Reef]

I learned the other day from a poster to watch out for bullying in them, sometimes at night or at u apparent times, just a little variable to watch out for.

the one not eating has become very protective of the anemone, but besides that I haven’t seen very much aggression.

Hard for me not to be worried about the parameters. These test kits are giving me trust issues.

 

[brandon429]

It’s easy to overlook that exact color is matched to passing seneye readings because the training to believe the test at all cost is engrained in us for decades since we never had digital readings when early cycle rules were guessed at then taught to us as fact timing.

it’ll help to see this, nine pages of that exact feeling


ammonia is never selective, it kills whole tanks or it harms nothing, there is no middle ground with it

there is no half cycle in reefing because our surface area ratios don’t permit them

anyone concerned about how much bacterial coverage is on the surface area has a cycling chart+ any seneye owners logs they can ask to see.

your fish live daily because its fine

let’s see a pic of them with the anemone


=sustained ammonia spikes are misreads, directly in the title for a reason

Sustained Ammonia spikes are misreads

The reason you think your reef tank can’t control its ammonia is due to false training from old cycling science. That and you don’t own a seneye on the tank in question: if you did, you wouldn’t ever think your ammonia was out of control...

www.reef2reef.com

a reef tank doesn’t have symptomless ammonia issues.
lastly

don’t be tempted to blame ammonia if any fish die, all disease preps have been skipped. Everyone has to learn first round about them as they’re replacing fish after a fallow run.

some, a few, get lucky and don’t need preps but eventually what we see daily in the fish disease forum applies to reefs especially dry rock starts.

that whole thread is all panic misreads. Not any actual symptoms

look how the impulse to buy things like prime and more bottle bac can’t be extracted from them, the fear overtakes the fact all their animals are alive - they lose sight of the big picture: ammonia kills tanks when there are no bacteria, the animals and corals can’t just live daily in killer water. Anemones will not open in poison water, poison water won’t stay clear


can we get a tank pic in white lighting for the final assessment this evening / the big picture shot

 

[brandon429]

I don’t take it lightly that it feels so strange either

all chemists are equally concerned over the test kit, the lack of symptoms simply aren’t factored, we are mired this deep in old cycling science in the hobby.

we just closed out another day of life being carried after feeding. That means something for sure, and tomorrows carry coming up too

even better than a pic if possible: a short 30 secs YouTube video


(can verify fish opercular/gill rates collectively, a top ammonia alert that all fish do while they hover at the top desperately breathing)

 

[brandon429]

If we can get a nice clear shot of the tank it’ll really shore up your cycle position for sure

 

[MB_Reef]

If we can get a nice clear shot of the tank it’ll really shore up your cycle position for sure

Will post one soon.