New tank cycling

What test kits are you usin?

API... Can't remember the specific name, but it's a salwater test kit (but not the reef one) .15ppm is not listed, but the color was in between 0ppm and .25ppm, that would be why I said about .15ppm, it wasn't one color or the other, but somewhere in between. Going by colors is a little bit of a guessing game unless it perfectly matches a color.
Kinda like my nitrates right now, the test kit has a color for 40ppm and 20ppm, but the color I got yesterday was neither color, but somewhere in between, so I'm guestimating that nitrates are approximately 30ppm right now.
 
Those test kits aren't precise, they give you a ball park. Even if zero it doesn't mean it's actually zero..
 
Those test kits aren't precise, they give you a ball park. Even if zero it doesn't mean it's actually zero..
Any suggestions on testing kits that don't cost an arm and a leg?
 
In total its been a month since I added the LR and started the cycling process. My Nitrite levels got up to 5ppm, and stayed there for about a week and a half. It was suggested on here that i get a nitrifying bacteria, when I went to my lfs to get some, I was talking to an employee, who also has about 5 sw tanks himself; he suggested trying a shrimp before using chemicals. I liked the idea of a more natural way, so I gave it a shot. I tested 2 days after I pulled the shrimp out, my ammonia levels were raised, (ammonia was at about .15ppm before the shrimp, but raised up to .25ppm after the shrimp) nitrite levels lowered (they were at 5ppm or higher, since the scale stops at 5, but after the shrimp they lowered to 1.0ppm) (maybe I'm saying that backwards, technically ammonia levels went downwards on the scale and nitrite levels went upwards on the scale, but I saw a change) Then just tested again yesterday evening (same time of day as the previous tests) and yes I tested pH, Ammonia, Nitrite, and nitrate.
Ya it sounds like your cycle has completed also keep in mind when you buy nitrifying bacteria it's no a chemical it is what you are trying to produce in the tank so don't worry about what your Lfs says about adding chemicals. Imo adding nitrifying bacteria and ammonia is just a jump start. The shrimp is decaying in your tank producing ammonia and its a bit of a guess as to how much ammonia its adding where as regular ammonia you can calculate the exact ppm your adding. And yes you can add a shrimp and measure ammonia and that also works it's just a messy stinky way of doing it. Anyways congrats get some fish Qt'ed and add them. Keep in mind your going to wanna add an ammonia source every few days while your fish are in qt so your bacteria dosent die off. Good luck
 
To start out you could buy an api master test kit there about 25-30$
That's what I have...therealplexiG said its not accurate, that it only gives you a ballpark.
 
Ya it sounds like your cycle has completed also keep in mind when you buy nitrifying bacteria it's no a chemical it is what you are trying to produce in the tank so don't worry about what your Lfs says about adding chemicals. Imo adding nitrifying bacteria and ammonia is just a jump start. The shrimp is decaying in your tank producing ammonia and its a bit of a guess as to how much ammonia its adding where as regular ammonia you can calculate the exact ppm your adding. And yes you can add a shrimp and measure ammonia and that also works it's just a messy stinky way of doing it. Anyways congrats get some fish Qt'ed and add them. Keep in mind your going to wanna add an ammonia source every few days while your fish are in qt so your bacteria dosent die off. Good luck

Should I add a cuc first? Or one or two fish?
Can you suggest an ammonia source... this is my first sw tank...still working on figuring all this out.
 
Should I add a cuc first? Or one or two fish?
Can you suggest an ammonia source... this is my first sw tank...still working on figuring all this out.
You can just feed the tank fish food like a flake or pellet this will generate ammonia. Also you can spend a lot of money on test kits and some Are more precise but the only difference I've really seen is company like seachem there ammonia test will break it down to total ammonia and ammonium nh3-nh4 this can be helpful if you test hi total ammonia you could break it down and see how much is nh3 the dangerous type for fish. Api will serve you fine.
 
You can just feed the tank fish food like a flake or pellet this will generate ammonia. Also you can spend a lot of money on test kits and some Are more precise but the only difference I've really seen is company like seachem there ammonia test will break it down to total ammonia and ammonium nh3-nh4 this can be helpful if you test hi total ammonia you could break it down and see how much is nh3 the dangerous type for fish. Api will serve you fine.
Thank you!
 
GHOST FEEDING aka feeding the tank with food would generate phosphates, Why dont you use pure ammonia?

Testing Kits:
There are many options untill and unless you are anal about your tests. Ballpark is good enough for you to keep ballin your tank. Check BRS youtube for more on test kits, the one they use for phosphates won't cost an arm or leg but kidney. :)
 
GHOST FEEDING aka feeding the tank with food would generate phosphates, Why dont you use pure ammonia?

Testing Kits:
There are many options untill and unless you are anal about your tests. Ballpark is good enough for you to keep ballin your tank. Check BRS youtube for more on test kits, the one they use for phosphates won't cost an arm or leg but kidney. :)
Thanks! I'll look into the YouTube channel, I love YouTube. And I think I can deal with the cost of just a kidney lol
 
Do a 30% or so water change and wait another week or two to make sure it really is indeed cycles. You're on the right track.

As far as the micro bubbles in your filter, I too use a filter because I don't have a sump and mine would blow bubbles when the media inside was too packed.

Make sure you have a really good skimmer as it will comfortably allow you to add fish without worrying if it's gonna handle the Bioload. Always go more than the recommendations - if you have a 50 g tank for example get a skimmer that's made for a 100g at least
 
Do a 30% or so water change and wait another week or two to make sure it really is indeed cycles. You're on the right track.

As far as the micro bubbles in your filter, I too use a filter because I don't have a sump and mine would blow bubbles when the media inside was too packed.

Make sure you have a really good skimmer as it will comfortably allow you to add fish without worrying if it's gonna handle the Bioload. Always go more than the recommendations - if you have a 50 g tank for example get a skimmer that's made for a 100g at least
I actually planned to do a water change tonight. I was going to do 20%, you think that's enough? Or should I go with 30% or more?
I'll have to take a look at the filter media, thanks for the info.
I have a 60 gallon tank, with a seaclone 100 protein skimmer.
 
I actually planned to do a water change tonight. I was going to do 20%, you think that's enough? Or should I go with 30% or more?
I'll have to take a look at the filter media, thanks for the info.
I have a 60 gallon tank, with a seaclone 100 protein skimmer.

Honestly, it's recommended to do a 50% water change after a cycle, if you can do that much I would. Your nitrates were not that high so I think you'll be okay with anything from 30-50

I have a 55gallon and use the HOB Reef Octopus 1000 and boy that thing is a beast. Pulls the nastiest stuff out. I dry skim, and sometimes change to wet skimming for a week or so, and go back to dry skimming. I only have 5 fish and it pulls out some dark brown gunk that fills the inside of the cup's walls in like 2-3 days. Keep it clean as well as mine sometimes leaks back in the water and messes with my nitrate levels.

Get a couple fish in there and start enjoying your tank and experimenting!! This is where the fun begins :P

I'm sure you've already read everywhere to stock slow, give a week at least between each addition. and be mindful of the species you put or want because the order of adding them is also important. I added a yellow tang as my 3rd fish and boy that thing was king of the tank and would harass any new addition. Add tangs last if you plan to keep one.
 
Honestly, it's recommended to do a 50% water change after a cycle, if you can do that much I would. Your nitrates were not that high so I think you'll be okay with anything from 30-50

I have a 55gallon and use the HOB Reef Octopus 1000 and boy that thing is a beast. Pulls the nastiest stuff out. I dry skim, and sometimes change to wet skimming for a week or so, and go back to dry skimming. I only have 5 fish and it pulls out some dark brown gunk that fills the inside of the cup's walls in like 2-3 days. Keep it clean as well as mine sometimes leaks back in the water and messes with my nitrate levels.

Get a couple fish in there and start enjoying your tank and experimenting!! This is where the fun begins :p

I'm sure you've already read everywhere to stock slow, give a week at least between each addition. and be mindful of the species you put or want because the order of adding them is also important. I added a yellow tang as my 3rd fish and boy that thing was king of the tank and would harass any new addition. Add tangs last if you plan to keep one.

I ended up doing a 30% water change and cleaned my canister filter. Hoping that will help lower the nitrate levels.

Dry skimming, wet skimming? Can you explain? When I threw a shrimp in the tank to help it cycle, my skimmer pulled some gunk, wasn't a lot, but at least I know it's working. Knowing that it can leak back into the water I will definitely keep it clean.

Last night we went and got an orchid dottyback and an emerald crab. :D So excited to finally have fish!
You keep a yellow tang in a 55g? I've read so many times that tangs are to big to keep in smaller tanks. I did some research though and the bristletooth tangs don't get as big, I was thinking about adding one of those, but I love the yellow tangs.
 
Dry skimming basically means letting the foamy water drain more before collecting it. Dry skimming is likely less effective in terms of organic removal overall, but is more efficient with respect to organics removed vs amount of salt water lost.
 
I ended up doing a 30% water change and cleaned my canister filter. Hoping that will help lower the nitrate levels.

Dry skimming, wet skimming? Can you explain? When I threw a shrimp in the tank to help it cycle, my skimmer pulled some gunk, wasn't a lot, but at least I know it's working. Knowing that it can leak back into the water I will definitely keep it clean.

Last night we went and got an orchid dottyback and an emerald crab. :D So excited to finally have fish!
You keep a yellow tang in a 55g? I've read so many times that tangs are to big to keep in smaller tanks. I did some research though and the bristletooth tangs don't get as big, I was thinking about adding one of those, but I love the yellow tangs.

Yes, after owning one for a short amount of time, I do not recommend putting a tang in a 55g unless you plan to get one when they're very small and eventually find a bigger home for it. It's not impossible or torture for the fish either. As long as your fish is happy then you're okay. If you are going to keep a tang in a smaller tank, it has to be a LONG tank.

When they are babies, you can keep one in a 4 foot long 55g to give them plenty of room to swim... Mine was super happy... Always interacting, eating, very fat and colorful, however, their aggression is too much so they always recommend them as the last fish. I will eventually put another tang maybe the kole tang, but i'm not adding him yet because i might want to add another fish :)
 

IF YOU HAD TO TAKE A REEFING EXAM, WOULD YOU PASS?

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  • Not yet, but I have one that I want to buy in mind!

    Votes: 9 12.9%
  • No.

    Votes: 26 37.1%
  • Other (please explain).

    Votes: 3 4.3%
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