New tank questions please help

[FriedReef TV]

I set up this 20 gallon long in the beginning of this January. It's been running smooth but my first fish got ich. I had a clown and cardinal but he died and the clown survived. Now he's in a 10 gallon quarantine with a filefish, both being treated for past 3 weeks, 3 more weeks before I add them back to DT. Gonna start quarantining all new fish, but I can't quarantine corals no room/money to set up another tank. Is this ok? Should I expect alot of pests once I start adding more corals? Should I dip them in "stuff" or something? Also, how should I get coraline algae to grow? I read seeding the tank with frag plugs and stuff will do it but im not dosing anything so will it have enough elements in the water to grow? (I plan on keeping this tank softies and a few lps) Thankful for any knowledge or advice you guys might have, thanks

 

[ShaunRobinson]

I think very few people quarantine corals so in my opinion you have to do your best not to introduce pests in with them. For me this means an initial coral dip, then a further 2 dips a few days apart while. Depending on anything dropping off the coral I may also scrub with a toothbrush to dislodge and eggs.

As far as coraline algae is concerned you need to be patient. I’m sure you have heard before that nothing good happens quickly in this hobby and if your water conditions are good and stable then coraline will grow.

Shaun.

 

[kintle]

I set up this 20 gallon long in the beginning of this January. It's been running smooth but my first fish got ich. I had a clown and cardinal but he died and the clown survived. Now he's in a 10 gallon quarantine with a filefish, both being treated for past 3 weeks, 3 more weeks before I add them back to DT. Gonna start quarantining all new fish, but I can't quarantine corals no room/money to set up another tank. Is this ok? Should I expect alot of pests once I start adding more corals? Should I dip them in "stuff" or something? Also, how should I get coraline algae to grow? I read seeding the tank with frag plugs and stuff will do it but im not dosing anything so will it have enough elements in the water to grow? (I plan on keeping this tank softies and a few lps) Thankful for any knowledge or advice you guys might have, thanks

I dont know many people who quarantine corals though it would sure help with hitchhikers. I generally dip before adding, if I see lots comming off a frag I dip again a few days later. This has not prevented hitchhikers however. I've stopped buying corals at a certain LFS because there is always so many hitchhickers comming off during initial dip. I still have found bristle worms, starfish and spaghetti worms in my tank so long as I dont see pests eating my coral I just have been calling them part of my CUC.
As for coroline, it comes in slowly in patches. I have had my 28g going for about 9 months now and I've got spots going all over my rock work. Maintain stable water parameters with water changes and it will take hold. I've taken to scrubbing patches off glass or power heads with a finger nail and letting it resettle where it will to try and speed it up. A few frag plugs I removed from frags that had it I broke up and added to my sump hopeing it helps broadcast it through the system. No idea if that works but I like to think it does.

 

[FriedReef TV]

I dont know many people who quarantine corals though it would sure help with hitchhikers. I generally dip before adding, if I see lots comming off a frag I dip again a few days later. This has not prevented hitchhikers however. I've stopped buying corals at a certain LFS because there is always so many hitchhickers comming off during initial dip. I still have found bristle worms, starfish and spaghetti worms in my tank so long as I dont see pests eating my coral I just have been calling them part of my CUC.
As for coroline, it comes in slowly in patches. I have had my 28g going for about 9 months now and I've got spots going all over my rock work. Maintain stable water parameters with water changes and it will take hold. I've taken to scrubbing patches off glass or power heads with a finger nail and letting it resettle where it will to try and speed it up. A few frag plugs I removed from frags that had it I broke up and added to my sump hopeing it helps broadcast it through the system. No idea if that works but I like to think it does.

thanks for advice. would a biweekly 5 gallon water change work well? or should I do like 2 gallons weekly?

 

[FriedReef TV]

I think very few people quarantine corals so in my opinion you have to do your best not to introduce pests in with them. For me this means an initial coral dip, then a further 2 dips a few days apart while. Depending on anything dropping off the coral I may also scrub with a toothbrush to dislodge and eggs.

As far as coraline algae is concerned you need to be patient. I’m sure you have heard before that nothing good happens quickly in this hobby and if your water conditions are good and stable then coraline will grow.

Shaun.

ok thanks for advice. do you think 5 gallon water changes biweekly is too much for a new tank? should I do like 2 gallon water changes weekly or something. I'm starting to get some weird looking algae. I think it might be bubble algae.

 

[Hemmdog]

thanks for advice. would a biweekly 5 gallon water change work well? or should I do like 2 gallons weekly?

5 gallon biweekly, weekly if your nutrients are bad. 2 is to small, that’s just diluting the water once it gets mature.
Not sure about that algae, it seems to be growing aggressively I would do something about it. Possibly remove rock and scrape it.
For dips I recommend revive, make sure you put the frag in a cup of tank water after the dip as well to sit, sometimes I even to 2 stages of tank water after the dip just to make sure I don’t get any of the chemicals in my display.

 

[kintle]

ok thanks for advice. do you think 5 gallon water changes biweekly is too much for a new tank? should I do like 2 gallon water changes weekly or something. I'm starting to get some weird looking algae. I think it might be bubble algae.

Could just be a case of the uglies. It's still a new tank. If you have a Turkey baster blow it with some water could just be air bubbles. If its stuck it's probably bubble algae. An emerald crab should it but they are jerks so be prepared to bring them back to the lfs after it does its job or starts hunting snails(mine did this and he was gone). I just spotted a spot of bubble algae and am thinking of another temporary crab. Expect random tank uglies for a young tank, just let them happen and do weekly water tests to make sure it's not a nitrate, phosphate issue.
As for water changes, I do a 5 gallon change at least once a week but often twice a week. I could do once a week and keep my parameters stable but I find it's a good break from my toddler when the wife is home with some peace and quiet for myself. The amount and frequency varies from tank to tank. Test your water once a week after a change. I'd suggest 2 to 5 gallons to do a 10-25 percent water change. Never do more than 50 percent at a time though. Also be careful if you vacuum your sandbed. I started a second cycle when I first started because I vacuumed maybe 70 percent of my sandbed. Now I just hit a few spots every change moving around and a dead spot I found in the corner.
I'd also suggest getting a small notebook to keep track of your water tests. If you see nitrates are climbing maybe increase your water change frequency or total volume. It could also be a sign your overfeeding. With a young tank dont try chasing numbers out unless its causing issues. But it will give you a good idea what's going on so you can adjust as needed. I'm still new to the hobie but hopefully this helps. I've taken my notebook to my LFS more than once to get advice if I felt something was out of the norm. When I first started useing reef roids I was way over feeding and did a 5 gallon water change every other day till I got levels down to normal and researched its use better before I used again. YouTube was very helpful.

 

[coley650]

It might be worth having a read of the lifecycle of ich. Once fish have been QT generally people run fallow DT for around 76 days. This denies the parasite a host and breaks its life cycle because once it’s in the water it’s in, even if some fish have a better tolerance it’s still there so any signs of stress such as the next time you get a new fish could cause an outbreak again.

From what I’ve read some people chance it but this early in where the tank isn’t mature or quite stable I’d run fallow, down the line it’ll be worth it.

As for coral, I’d echo what’s already been said. I dip in reef primer, then some re-dips dependant on what’s come off it along with a bit of a scrub of the base and what not. [emoji1417]

 

[FriedReef TV]

It might be worth having a read of the lifecycle of ich. Once fish have been QT generally people run fallow DT for around 76 days. This denies the parasite a host and breaks its life cycle because once it’s in the water it’s in, even if some fish have a better tolerance it’s still there so any signs of stress such as the next time you get a new fish could cause an outbreak again.

From what I’ve read some people chance it but this early in where the tank isn’t mature or quite stable I’d run fallow, down the line it’ll be worth it.

As for coral, I’d echo what’s already been said. I dip in reef primer, then some re-dips dependant on what’s come off it along with a bit of a scrub of the base and what not. [emoji1417]

Everyone says 6 weeks is minimum to kill it but 8 weeks is recommended. Some strains of ich last for 2 weeks some for 4 and some for 10 etc from what I understand. I'm willing to take the risk of 6 weeks as if I get ich again I'm installing a UV sterilizer and diatom filter which won't kill the parasite but will keep it from completing its free swim part of the life cycle. Many people do this and eventually the strain of ich will die after it continues reproducing with itself, but it takes like year (unless new fish with another strain are introduced) this is all information I found on r2r. correct me if I'm wrong

 

[FriedReef TV]

Could just be a case of the uglies. It's still a new tank. If you have a Turkey baster blow it with some water could just be air bubbles. If its stuck it's probably bubble algae. An emerald crab should it but they are jerks so be prepared to bring them back to the lfs after it does its job or starts hunting snails(mine did this and he was gone). I just spotted a spot of bubble algae and am thinking of another temporary crab. Expect random tank uglies for a young tank, just let them happen and do weekly water tests to make sure it's not a nitrate, phosphate issue.
As for water changes, I do a 5 gallon change at least once a week but often twice a week. I could do once a week and keep my parameters stable but I find it's a good break from my toddler when the wife is home with some peace and quiet for myself. The amount and frequency varies from tank to tank. Test your water once a week after a change. I'd suggest 2 to 5 gallons to do a 10-25 percent water change. Never do more than 50 percent at a time though. Also be careful if you vacuum your sandbed. I started a second cycle when I first started because I vacuumed maybe 70 percent of my sandbed. Now I just hit a few spots every change moving around and a dead spot I found in the corner.
I'd also suggest getting a small notebook to keep track of your water tests. If you see nitrates are climbing maybe increase your water change frequency or total volume. It could also be a sign your overfeeding. With a young tank dont try chasing numbers out unless its causing issues. But it will give you a good idea what's going on so you can adjust as needed. I'm still new to the hobie but hopefully this helps. I've taken my notebook to my LFS more than once to get advice if I felt something was out of the norm. When I first started useing reef roids I was way over feeding and did a 5 gallon water change every other day till I got levels down to normal and researched its use better before I used again. YouTube was very helpful.

I've been trying to keep it a little light with water changes now at least cause the tank is fallow the nitrates and phosphates are at 0 ppm but I think they don't show up because they are being consumed rapidly all that's in the tank is 2 hermit crabs 2 snails and a small gsp

 

[coley650]

Everyone says 6 weeks is minimum to kill it but 8 weeks is recommended. Some strains of ich last for 2 weeks some for 4 and some for 10 etc from what I understand. I'm willing to take the risk of 6 weeks as if I get ich again I'm installing a UV sterilizer and diatom filter which won't kill the parasite but will keep it from completing its free swim part of the life cycle. Many people do this and eventually the strain of ich will die after it continues reproducing with itself, but it takes like year (unless new fish with another strain are introduced) this is all information I found on r2r. correct me if I'm wrong

No you’re not wrong, I’d just keep in mind 3-8 week average lifecycle and occasionally reaching cycles of 10-11, you’d be taking quite the risk putting back in at 6 weeks to potentially have to go through the whole process again down the line where it’s likely you’ll have more livestock to QT and the stress and potential loss that comes with it. Personally I’d go 10 as a minimum but 12 if I can.

BRSTV did a really useful video about UV’s if you have time to catch it. Particularly on size and flow. I debated on a UV as a preventative measure but given all the factors of its effectiveness such as flow and amount of time in contact with light I thought I’d be best to put my money in a QT tank first but will probably put UV on the upgrade later in the year.

What QT process/medication have carried out on the clown?

 

[kintle]

No you’re not wrong, I’d just keep in mind 3-8 week average lifecycle and occasionally reaching cycles of 10-11, you’d be taking quite the risk putting back in at 6 weeks to potentially have to go through the whole process again down the line where it’s likely you’ll have more livestock to QT and the stress and potential loss that comes with it. Personally I’d go 10 as a minimum but 12 if I can.

BRSTV did a really useful video about UV’s if you have time to catch it. Particularly on size and flow. I debated on a UV as a preventative measure but given all the factors of its effectiveness such as flow and amount of time in contact with light I thought I’d be best to put my money in a QT tank first but will probably put UV on the upgrade later in the year.

What QT process/medication have carried out on the clown?

I saw an article here earlier about low oxygen environments prolonging the life cycle of parasites in a fallow tank. I.e. low flow areas trapped in rock work create pockets where the parasite can prolong its life without a host. Was very rare but possible. Found it very interesting.
I haven't had to deal with ick yet. For brook, any treatment other than full fallow just didnt work. I've come of the opinion dont rush anything. The old timers found timeframes that work so follow them even if it takes longer. I'm happier in the long run for it. Im agreeing with coley650. Wait the full qt time frame.

 

[jtl]

I carefully inspect and then dip my corals. In theory a coral or invert could bring in Ich but i believe the probability to be so low so I take the risk. I'm setting up a QT for a couple of new fish right now.

 

[FriedReef TV]

No you’re not wrong, I’d just keep in mind 3-8 week average lifecycle and occasionally reaching cycles of 10-11, you’d be taking quite the risk putting back in at 6 weeks to potentially have to go through the whole process again down the line where it’s likely you’ll have more livestock to QT and the stress and potential loss that comes with it. Personally I’d go 10 as a minimum but 12 if I can.

BRSTV did a really useful video about UV’s if you have time to catch it. Particularly on size and flow. I debated on a UV as a preventative measure but given all the factors of its effectiveness such as flow and amount of time in contact with light I thought I’d be best to put my money in a QT tank first but will probably put UV on the upgrade later in the year.

What QT process/medication have carried out on the clown?

do you think that the Cardinal died because I moved them to quarantine? the clown had ich for like 2 weeks but I never saw ich on the Cardinal, it died the night after I put them both in quarantine. I have a filefish in quarantine with the clown now and the filefish doesn't have it either. do you think the clown has brook and not ich? I've been treating with seachem paraguard every day for past 3 weeks. I don't see any more spots on the clown he had alot but the paraguard seemed to fix it. I would use cupramine but I was scared I would kill my fish plus filefish are very sensitive to copper

 

[coley650]

do you think that the Cardinal died because I moved them to quarantine? the clown had ich for like 2 weeks but I never saw ich on the Cardinal, it died the night after I put them both in quarantine. I have a filefish in quarantine with the clown now and the filefish doesn't have it either. do you think the clown has brook and not ich? I've been treating with seachem paraguard every day for past 3 weeks. I don't see any more spots on the clown he had alot but the paraguard seemed to fix it. I would use cupramine but I was scared I would kill my fish plus filefish are very sensitive to copper

It would be too hard to tell or say... It could have been a number of factors around stress, illness, weakness, water quality or change of environment... It's worth trying to get a picture. Disease in fish is hard to diagnose, I'm certainly no expert and I've not stumbled across anyone on a forum claiming to be, but instead you can get an experienced educated likelihood! Which usually boils down to 3 main contenders ich (white spot), velvet and brook. So it would be ideal to try and address all 3. I hear what your saying on copper it can be difficult to dose so I opted for Chloroquine Phosphate (CP) because it helps with all 3, on the side of that I did read some fish are sensitive to it though such as Anthias, Regal Tangs and some Wrasse.

What's your QT set up? size, bio filtration, any media, was media seeded from main tank, water, and are you keeping an eye on ammonia, nitrite, temp and ph?

As you've started and treated with paraguard for 3 weeks and it’s been positive so far I wouldn’t jump ship to CP at this point just maybe something to consider for the future, not sure what others think about that?? Only because CP is also a 3 week treatment!

If they seem to be doing well just observe them, you could always do a fresh water dip and a Praziquantel bath if it's needed.
Just remember to give them time to recover between phases of treatment. I'd seriously consider letting the DT run the full fallow period though, are you running fallow without light to try and help address the algae issue?

 

[FriedReef TV]

It would be too hard to tell or say... It could have been a number of factors around stress, illness, weakness, water quality or change of environment... It's worth trying to get a picture. Disease in fish is hard to diagnose, I'm certainly no expert and I've not stumbled across anyone on a forum claiming to be, but instead you can get an experienced educated likelihood! Which usually boils down to 3 main contenders ich (white spot), velvet and brook. So it would be ideal to try and address all 3. I hear what your saying on copper it can be difficult to dose so I opted for Chloroquine Phosphate (CP) because it helps with all 3, on the side of that I did read some fish are sensitive to it though such as Anthias, Regal Tangs and some Wrasse.

What's your QT set up? size, bio filtration, any media, was media seeded from main tank, water, and are you keeping an eye on ammonia, nitrite, temp and ph?

As you've started and treated with paraguard for 3 weeks and it’s been positive so far I wouldn’t jump ship to CP at this point just maybe something to consider for the future, not sure what others think about that?? Only because CP is also a 3 week treatment!

If they seem to be doing well just observe them, you could always do a fresh water dip and a Praziquantel bath if it's needed.
Just remember to give them time to recover between phases of treatment. I'd seriously consider letting the DT run the full fallow period though, are you running fallow without light to try and help address the algae issue?

In my display tank there is some gsp so I cant turn off my light but algae isn't too bad the crabs and snails are keeping it until control for the most part. In the quarantine it's a 10 gallon tank with an aqua clear 30 no media. I have some PVC and base rock in there I started it completely clean only with bacteria start up and some water from my DT. I need to test my water, but last i checked everything was at 0 pH a little low at 7.7 and salinity 1.018ish. I'm almost positive it was ich because it looked like salt grains under the skin and in the fins but I can't see anything at all anymore and both the fish are doing great. Do you really think 6 weeks isn't enough?

 

[FriedReef TV]

It would be too hard to tell or say... It could have been a number of factors around stress, illness, weakness, water quality or change of environment... It's worth trying to get a picture. Disease in fish is hard to diagnose, I'm certainly no expert and I've not stumbled across anyone on a forum claiming to be, but instead you can get an experienced educated likelihood! Which usually boils down to 3 main contenders ich (white spot), velvet and brook. So it would be ideal to try and address all 3. I hear what your saying on copper it can be difficult to dose so I opted for Chloroquine Phosphate (CP) because it helps with all 3, on the side of that I did read some fish are sensitive to it though such as Anthias, Regal Tangs and some Wrasse.

What's your QT set up? size, bio filtration, any media, was media seeded from main tank, water, and are you keeping an eye on ammonia, nitrite, temp and ph?

As you've started and treated with paraguard for 3 weeks and it’s been positive so far I wouldn’t jump ship to CP at this point just maybe something to consider for the future, not sure what others think about that?? Only because CP is also a 3 week treatment!

If they seem to be doing well just observe them, you could always do a fresh water dip and a Praziquantel bath if it's needed.
Just remember to give them time to recover between phases of treatment. I'd seriously consider letting the DT run the full fallow period though, are you running fallow without light to try and help address the algae issue?

also temp in DT is 80.2 f quarantine is 83.3 and here's some pics sorry there's diatoms everywhere in qt but water is clear and I'm about to test it

 

[coley650]

I would yes. You’d be minimising the risk significantly of going through this again. Qt seems ok, I don’t have live rock in mine mainly because it can soak up medication but I’ve seen them with it. It might be worth keeping some sponge seeding in your sump in case you need it again. Keep us posted [emoji1417]