New tank - Red Jelly

[Coralline65]

Hi there, my tank has been running now for 4 months and when cleaning I lived the rock that has mushrooms on it and noticed this red jelly like stuff, any ideas? Thanks

 

[DanyL]

This is Cyano Bacteria, your nutrients are most likely imbalanced.
What are your parameters?

The treatment is to balance your nutrients, adding CUC and adequate flow as well as to syphon it periodically.

 

[Coralline65]

I thought that’s what it might be, but as it’s my first tank wanted to check. I only noticed it as it sat behind the rock where the Mushrooms were. Ph 8.2, nitrites and Ammonia are 0 and Nitrates 10ppm.

 

[DanyL]

The reason why it grew specifically there is probably due to the lack of flow in the area.
What are your phosphates?

 

[Coralline65]

The reason why it grew specifically there is probably due to the lack of flow in the area.
What are your phosphates?

I’m sure it’s going to be the flow, I’ve got the standard you get with the tank and then another pump. Where it is the flow is kind of blocked by rock and also the Kenya Tree. Getting another test for phosphates tomorrow. Also think the extra pump might be better replaced with a power head.

you can see the pumps in the attached, but think power head on opposite side would be better

 

[vetteguy53081]

Hi there, my tank has been running now for 4 months and when cleaning I lived the rock that has mushrooms on it and noticed this red jelly like stuff, any ideas? Thanks

Confirming cyano. Cyano blooms typically start when water nutrient concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate. When the protein skimmer does not output the best efficiency or you do not have the suitable protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created by the skimmer might be insufficient. And this insufficiency of air bubbles can trigger the cyano to thrive.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank beautifully clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development

I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 5-7 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

After the week, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.

 

[Coralline65]

Confirming cyano. Cyano blooms typically start when water nutrient concentrations of phosphate, nitrate and other organic compounds are too high.
Some of the most common causes include:
- Protein skimmer which fills water with tiny air bubbles. As bubbles form from the reaction chamber, dissolved organic compound molecules stick to them. Foam forms at the surface of the water and is then transferred to a collection cup, where it rests as skimmate. When the protein skimmer does not output the best efficiency or you do not have the suitable protein skimmer to cover the tank, the air bubbles created by the skimmer might be insufficient. And this insufficiency of air bubbles can trigger the cyano to thrive.
- Overstocking / overfeeding, your aquarium with nutrients is often the culprit of a cyano bloom
- Adding live rock that isn’t completely cured which acts like a breeding ground for red slime algae
- If you don’t change your water with enough frequency, you’ll soon have a brightly colored red slime algae bloom. Regular water changes dilute nutrients that feed cyanobacteria and keeps your tank beautifully clear
- Using a water source with nitrates or phosphates is like rolling out the welcome mat for cyano. Tap water is an example
- Inadequate water flow, or movement, is a leading cause of cyano blooms. Slow moving water combined with excess dissolved nutrients is a recipe for pervasive red slime algae development

I recommend to reduce white light intensity or even turn them off for 5-7 days. Add liquid bacteria daily for a week during the day at 1.5ml per 10 gallons. Add Hydrogen peroxide at night at 1ml per 10 gallons. Add a pouch of chemipure Elite which will balance phos and nitrate and keep them in check.

After the week, add a few snails such as cerith, margarita, astrea and nassarius plus 6-8 blue leg hermits to take control.

I have the following in the tank 4 Nassarus, 4 Trocchus, 4 Hermits, Peppermint Shrimp, 2 Clowns and Regal Damsel.

It’s the Fluval PS2 skimmer.

im going to check the phosphates and increase the flow and lights out.

WC I do weekly.

 

[Coralline65]

Ok so I got a Reef Flow 2.0 4000, and phosphate test kit.
I was thinking should I siphon out what I can, increase the flow and lights out or a few days, ie natural methods?

also would NoPox work in reducing food for the Cyano. I’ll have a better idea when home re phosphates

 

[DanyL]

Introducing a carbon source (NoPox) will mostly help you to reduce nitrates, but it'll also have a small affect on phosphates too.
Let's first see what the results are and plan accordingly.

As for treatment, I wouldn't go straight to a light out treatment, it can be affective for the first few days but without fixing the root cause it'll get back to the same state days later.
I would make sure the flow is adequate, not too strong to not irritate your corals, but strong enough to not allow the Cyano to take off.

As for siphoning - yes, daily.
If you have adequate mechanical filtration it is also enough to simply blow it off.

 

[Coralline65]

Introducing a carbon source (NoPox) will mostly help you to reduce nitrates, but it'll also have a small affect on phosphates too.
Let's first see what the results are and plan accordingly.

As for treatment, I wouldn't go straight to a light out treatment, it can be affective for the first few days but without fixing the root cause it'll get back to the same state days later.
I would make sure the flow is adequate, not too strong to not irritate your corals, but strong enough to not allow the Cyano to take off.

As for siphoning - yes, daily.
If you have adequate mechanical filtration it is also enough to simply blow it off.

So my parameters are Nitrite 0, Ammonia 0.25 and Nitrates 10. The phosphate I’m not 100% on so have put pictures as it mentions divide by 3….this is the beginner in me.

As for flow I’ve put a pic of the tank and was going to take the middle one out and replace with the reef flow, or keep it and put the reef flow on opposite side of tank

 

[DanyL]

The division by 3 is used to convert the result to phosphorous, you do not need to do this.

As for the result, it is hard to me to read through the computer screen, but it does seem to be anywhere between 0.5 to 1, which I kind of doubt as it would essentially kill every living thing in your tank.

Make sure to test at least 6 hours after feeding so the result won't get skewed by it, this is true for both nitrate and phosphate.

About the flow - I like to have as many sources as possible, just make sure they aren't ripping corals apart.
You can find some examples of good flow patterns on YouTube, take a note that softies, LPS and SPS flow requirements are different, so you'll need to provide it accordingly.

 

[Coralline65]

The division by 3 is used to convert the result to phosphorous, you do not need to do this.

As for the result, it is hard to me to read through the computer screen, but it does seem to be anywhere between 0.5 to 1, which I kind of doubt as it would essentially kill every living thing in your tank.

Make sure to test at least 6 hours after feeding so the result won't get skewed by it, this is true for both nitrate and phosphate.

About the flow - I like to have as many sources as possible, just make sure they aren't ripping corals apart.
You can find some examples of good flow patterns on YouTube, take a note that softies, LPS and SPS flow requirements are different, so you'll need to provide it accordingly.

Feeding was about 4 hours ago, but thanks for that tip.

Yes it’s difficult to tell with the light and through a screen but I thought between 0.25 and 0.5.

I’ll take more readings after WC and siphon off what I can. As for light would some blue each day be better for now and no white light?

 

[DanyL]

While it is not necessary and its defiantly possible to manage without it, I highly recommend to use Hanna Phosphate ULR specifically for this particular test, it is far easier to determine your levels with it compared to regular test kits.

Generally speaking, if your nitrates are at 10, you would want to keep your phosphates somewhere around 0.1.
I wouldn't use use carbon dosing in your particular situation as your nitrates are fine, you can try to cut your feedings or use a tiny(!) bit of GFO.

As for the lights, blues are perfectly fine for corals, whites lights on the other hand, while good for coral will also promote algae growth. It is fine to have some whites around though.

 

[Coralline65]

While it is not necessary and its defiantly possible to manage without it, I highly recommend to use Hanna Phosphate ULR specifically for this particular test, it is far easier to determine your levels with it compared to regular test kits.

Generally speaking, if your nitrates are at 10, you would want to keep your phosphates somewhere around 0.1.
I wouldn't use use carbon dosing in your particular situation as your nitrates are fine, you can try to cut your feedings or use a tiny(!) bit of GFO.

As for the lights, blues are perfectly fine for corals, whites lights on the other hand, while good for coral will also promote algae growth. It is fine to have some whites around though.

Cyano siphoned, which was pleasantly satisfying, WC done and power head installed on opposite side. The amount of stuff that started floating about when I turned it on.
Waited a while and did parameters again and all same, although Phosphates looks slightly lighter.

 

[DanyL]

Haha cleaning Cyano defiantly comes with some sort of satisfaction, indeed

My suggestion for the time being is to cut your feedings and doing WC 10%-15% every 3 days for the next 2 weeks.
Make sure to test your water before and after the water change to determine the trend.
If this isn't enough then it might be a good idea to use some GFO to knock it off.

 

[Coralline65]

Haha cleaning Cyano defiantly comes with some sort of satisfaction, indeed

My suggestion for the time being is to cut your feedings and doing WC 10%-15% every 3 days for the next 2 weeks.
Make sure to test your water before and after the water change to determine the trend.
If this isn't enough then it might be a good idea to use some GFO to knock it off.

Yes I’ll be keeping a close eye on it, also think I need to rearrange the rocks slightly to encourage more flow as some parts look “congested” if that makes sense.

Also I’ve got more corals than I thought I would have so need to reposition that too, but mindful of moving too much about at the moment.

The LFS had a cleaner shrimp in which I had been waiting for, typical though it arrives the day I’m fighting Cyano ‍

 

[Coralline65]

Haha cleaning Cyano defiantly comes with some sort of satisfaction, indeed

My suggestion for the time being is to cut your feedings and doing WC 10%-15% every 3 days for the next 2 weeks.
Make sure to test your water before and after the water change to determine the trend.
If this isn't enough then it might be a good idea to use some GFO to knock it off.

Water change is today but phosphates look lighter. Also adding the power head has really helped, as the small patches of red in the sand have gone and the water is looking nice and clear.

 

[DanyL]

Water change is today but phosphates look lighter. Also adding the power head has really helped, as the small patches of red in the sand have gone and the water is looking nice and clear.

Looks awesome!
Better flow also result in better filtration as it blows detritus which otherwise would've settled and turn into more phosphates and nitrates.

How light is your phosphate today?

 

[Coralline65]

Looks awesome!
Better flow also result in better filtration as it blows detritus which otherwise would've settled and turn into more phosphates and nitrates.

How light is your phosphate today?

Yeah, the amount of stuff that appeared after putting the power head in was crazy, the skimmer went crazy too.

got the flow so that the food stays floating around more and not dropping straight down nearly.

Phosphates I’d say ate between 0.1 and 0.25 now.

 

[DanyL]

Alright, that's great.
Let the skimmer pull out all the accumulated organic matter and keep checking your nutrients.

I'll hold on with my previous suggestion of frequent water changes until we know where we at, but keep doing weekly water changes as usual as the skimmer also pulls out essential elements.