New tank setup acquired and some initial questions
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00Dan
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If you're going to let sit fallow for 6 weeks, I wouldn't nuke it. Might be some good stuff you want to keep on there.
Otherwise..sounds good. Why not set up your aquascape and see if you like it over the next six weeks? Good plan!
I think the only benefit to nuking it would be to absolutely sure I kill any velvet. Otherwise I agree, there may be some good stuff left on there. Looking at the disease forum it seems there is some evidence that dosing hydrogen peroxide may kill the velvet without harming the beneficial bacteria, could that be worth trying? As I see it it could be an opportunity to move to a normal cycling period of closer to 4 weeks rather than the 6 week fallow period.
As far as the sand goes, presumably it has detritus as it came from an established tank. To keep it “live” should I rinse it in saltwater or can I use fresh for that short time period? If fresh, would tap leave anything alive while perhaps killing undesirables?
Quietman
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Well now you're talking options and your risk tolerance vs additional cost and/or time. It all sounds as viable options to ensure velvet is dead/removed.
My personal choice would be to wait the extra 2 weeks, but I can also see chemically treating as workable.
As for the sand. Just rinse it with garden hose for a while. Saltwater isn't cheap and not needed. You'll be cycling anyway.
My personal choice would be to wait the extra 2 weeks, but I can also see chemically treating as workable.
As for the sand. Just rinse it with garden hose for a while. Saltwater isn't cheap and not needed. You'll be cycling anyway.
00Dan
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An update: I have substrate, hard scrape, and water in the tank. Just running RODI for now but I plan to get salt in tomorrow. I did reuse the sand and rock from the previous setup; I rinsed both thoroughly in tap water prior to using. I also added some base rock to supplement the rock I was given (only about 15#). The aquascape was put down on eggcrate before the substrate was added; I used superglue on some of the pieces but aimed to stack it as stably as possible. The only part of the scape I’m still unsure about would be the branching structure the previous owner made and gave to me with the tank; as you can see he epoxied it together and I’m not sure on placement or if it belongs at all. Any scape suggestions are welcome.
At this point I am going to go with the six week fallow/cycle to get things up and running and (hopefully) velvet free. In the meantime I have an ATO, an RODI unit, and (maybe) a mounting arm for the Hydra 26 on my shopping list.
With it all up and running I have (of course) more questions.
First, approximately what is the proper fill level for a tank such as this? I accidentally overfilled it this evening (I could tell because the water topped the weirs). A cursory google search did not reveal this and I can’t seem to locate any manuals or diagrams on IM’s website.
Second, I have the equipment necessary to suspend the Hydra 26 from the ceiling over the tank. Would an arm make any difference versus hanging or is it largely personal preference? With either solution, what should the distance between the light and water be?
Third, with just a single AC powerhead what placement should I be looking at for it? Should I consider putting on a timer or controller to approximate a wave maker? Is just the single head enough for softies and LPS in combo with the dual output from the 476 GPH return pump?
At this point I am going to go with the six week fallow/cycle to get things up and running and (hopefully) velvet free. In the meantime I have an ATO, an RODI unit, and (maybe) a mounting arm for the Hydra 26 on my shopping list.
With it all up and running I have (of course) more questions.
First, approximately what is the proper fill level for a tank such as this? I accidentally overfilled it this evening (I could tell because the water topped the weirs). A cursory google search did not reveal this and I can’t seem to locate any manuals or diagrams on IM’s website.
Second, I have the equipment necessary to suspend the Hydra 26 from the ceiling over the tank. Would an arm make any difference versus hanging or is it largely personal preference? With either solution, what should the distance between the light and water be?
Third, with just a single AC powerhead what placement should I be looking at for it? Should I consider putting on a timer or controller to approximate a wave maker? Is just the single head enough for softies and LPS in combo with the dual output from the 476 GPH return pump?
Quietman
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Nice...always like branching coral myself, but your scape is probably one of the more personal things about this. Just remember that corals are going to grow and some quite large so try to plan for that as well. Also you have time, play around a bit. Taking rock in and out isn't going to hurt.
Water should run through weir during normal operation. The level will be controlled in the pump chamber. Play around a bit with it before you add salt, easier to take out. Pump needs to stay covered. An AIO isn't going to overflow except if your ATO fails. Without a sump you have no room for an ATO failure. Which is why most everyone on here will probably recommend a Tunze 3155 ATO.
Both arms and ceiling mounts are nice. Personal preference. Distance you'll determine by spread (cover the tank) and corals.
That's a large flow in that size tank to have on all the time with corals - fish aren't going to be bothered - not sure about your sand bed.
Again, experiment with the flow. You can bounce it off glass and work with return flow.
Hydor says you can put that pump on their controller (most AC pumps will have a shortened lifespan on controllers) but as I have no experience with Hydors on controllers, I'll let others discuss your best options.
Water should run through weir during normal operation. The level will be controlled in the pump chamber. Play around a bit with it before you add salt, easier to take out. Pump needs to stay covered. An AIO isn't going to overflow except if your ATO fails. Without a sump you have no room for an ATO failure. Which is why most everyone on here will probably recommend a Tunze 3155 ATO.
Both arms and ceiling mounts are nice. Personal preference. Distance you'll determine by spread (cover the tank) and corals.
That's a large flow in that size tank to have on all the time with corals - fish aren't going to be bothered - not sure about your sand bed.
Again, experiment with the flow. You can bounce it off glass and work with return flow.Hydor says you can put that pump on their controller (most AC pumps will have a shortened lifespan on controllers) but as I have no experience with Hydors on controllers, I'll let others discuss your best options.
