option B, feed them and manage algae independently by manual cleaning.
I recommend reading up on various tank invasion challenge threads searchable here, try and find the unifying initial choice that all invaded tank owners do (allow the invasion to build, vs clean it out yesterday)
it's not that the haze is unwarranted for a new brightly lit tank or particularly dangerous, it's that removing it by practice right now establishes a habit that may save you from dinos very very very soon. the #1 thing that links all, every single dinos thread challenge running, is initial passivity by the tank owner. they'll sit right there for eight months doing nothing but microscope slide posts as their entire tank is overtaken. if you learn now to simply never physically allow an invasion of your reef, it can't be invaded. its that simple.
now you may end up manually cleaning everyday/not fun/if your water source isn't pure, or if that lighting is entirely too bright for a brand new reef but that has nothing to do with owning a wrecked-looking reef. anyone who owns a wrecked reef has chosen to simply go hands off, and their pics show it.
you'd manually clean until you're either good enough or lucky enough to not have it, but never allow your tank to go downhill. that's doing opposite of all invasion challenges on the entire site. trained passivity is what causes those.
one of the benefits of not owning nor running a nitrite test kit for your entire reefing career is that you can replace that time spent with reading up in the disease forum, so that all your fish don't die by June from skipping preps.
your fish and animal risk is 0% regarding what any nitrite status is
it's going to be based on nutritional health of the system/currently ramping up/and your fish disease protocol selected, which is currently none.
*if you experience fish losses in the coming months, it's not a parameter you can test for causing it*
the starfish will just starve out slowly but any fish-specific losses will be disease related, prepare for that by reading fallow and quarantine threads from Jays disease forum here.
A forum for discussing treatment and diagnosing saltwater reef fish.
www.reef2reef.com
skipping those isn't an option, even though it seems it can be for the first few months.
interesting side note: of all help threads posted on page one of that forum link, how many of them are from new tanks under 8 months old? that tells you alot about disease emergence predictability.
to date their tank, click on their avatars and select find all posts, usually their first post is a description including the age of the reef tank in question.
at the end of the day, what you're wanting is a healthy tank and strong animal preservation. that won't be achieved by dealing with cycling parameters anymore here, that's an important detail for you to know--where to aim your concerns and efforts. that link above and how you react to expected invasions is what will make your new reef tank run the best
. Should I use dip-x to kill possible parasites? The main issue with dip-x is that I could kill also the good hitchhikers even tho they claim the product removes just the "bad ones".
