New tank syndrome

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bguzio

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I have a 150-gallon FOWLR that I had to take down and sanitize due to a Velvet outbreak about 8 months ago.
There were only a few survivors. a blue throat trigger, 4 clown fish, and a purple sea urchin. The sanitized tank has been up and running for about 4 months with the remaining fish in it. I am having a nasty hair algae problem. I decided to turn my lights down to about 10%. My nitrates are at 2 ppm and my phosphates are at .02ppm with the help of Phosphate RX. My alkalinity is 8.8. I just bought 50 Trochus snails from Algae Barn. However, they will be quarantined for approx. 80 days in a 20-gallon tank. I started feeding them nori seaweed. My question is this....By keeping my light par levels extremely low and making sure my nitrates and phosphates are also exceptionally low, will my DT stabilize and bypass the ugly stage based on what I am doing, or am I merely pushing out the inevitable ugly stage once I try and bring light levels up to a normal par level? Also, I'm assuming, I am stunting the production of coralline algae in this mode as well. Any advice is welcomed.
 
I have a 150-gallon FOWLR that I had to take down and sanitize due to a Velvet outbreak about 8 months ago.
There were only a few survivors. a blue throat trigger, 4 clown fish, and a purple sea urchin. The sanitized tank has been up and running for about 4 months with the remaining fish in it. I am having a nasty hair algae problem. I decided to turn my lights down to about 10%. My nitrates are at 2 ppm and my phosphates are at .02ppm with the help of Phosphate RX. My alkalinity is 8.8. I just bought 50 Trochus snails from Algae Barn. However, they will be quarantined for approx. 80 days in a 20-gallon tank. I started feeding them nori seaweed. My question is this....By keeping my light par levels extremely low and making sure my nitrates and phosphates are also exceptionally low, will my DT stabilize and bypass the ugly stage based on what I am doing, or am I merely pushing out the inevitable ugly stage once I try and bring light levels up to a normal par level? Also, I'm assuming, I am stunting the production of coralline algae in this mode as well. Any advice is welcomed.
Why are the lights on at all? Is Coralline algae growth that important for your aquarium? When the snails are ready, turn the lights on…and keep feeding them to maintain their health.
 
If you ain't gone through the ugly stage you ain't owned a reef tank ;)
 
Why are the lights on at all? Is Coralline algae growth that important for your aquarium? When the snails are ready, turn the lights on…and keep feeding them to maintain their health.
The lights are on at approx. 10% so I can see the fish. Thank you for your comment Dan
 
The lights are on at approx. 10% so I can see the fish. Thank you for your comment Dan
I agree with Dan - if you're having a 'nasty problem' - the less light the better - I would consider lowering the light even more - except perhaps at night when you're wanting to view the fish. Additionally - I would consider scrubbing the rocks. Lastly - could you be overfeeding?
 
I keep the lights on very low during feedings.
Yes, I have been scrubbing my rocks with a toothbrush. I have been feeding heavy. My nitrates and phosphates are very low. They are low in part from the hair algae uptake. Thank you for your thoughts. Much appreciated.
 
I agree on blackout and scrubbing algae to see actual levels of nitrates and phosphates and decide if need to deal with them by WC or other methods.
 
I turned my tank lights off. The only time I turn them on is when I'm feeding.
Thank you for your thoughts. Just in 4 days of tank blackout, I have practically had no green hair algae in the tank.
My phosphates and nitrates are still very low. Nitrates at 3 ppm and Phosphates at .02 ppm. This suggests that these numbers are real and not falsely appearing low from the green hair algae reuptake.
 
Agree that the algae will require less light, and that the trochus will do little to address the GHA
I for one add snails and other CUC from suppliers like AG or SWA directly to the tank as soon as you rinse the lights.
And fowler certainly allows a bristle-tooth or 2 would help as the light come back...

good luck to you
 

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