New tank transfer ick out break.

[Garets92553]

3 weeks ago upgraded tanks 120g to 220g. Same live rock new live sand. 80% new water. Didn’t lose any fish yet maroon clown had it fish cause clarkii clown was messing with him until they both found own anemone other side of tank. Clown tang looks worst. The maroon and long nose butterfly. Sail fin a little. Flame angel can’t see any coral beauty,other clown fish yellow belly tang looks good blue tang had a little but was hiding all day yesterday. Yellow tang also a little. Everyone’s eating good beside one blue tang. Clown tang swimming towards power head. Every one is trying to get cleaned by cleaner shrimp. Any suggestions to relieve them a little. I’m feeding nori 3 times a day. Pe mysis shrimp. With NLS pellets and freeze dried mysis soaked in selcon also nori soaked in selcon. I have an aqua 57w UV already. I’ve always had ick just never this bad.

 

[lapin]

Stress will bring out dormant disease.
Options to help:
Turn on the UV.
Feed live food when possible. Black or white worms, clams.
Treat fish in QT tank.
Best option: Remove all fish to QT tank and go fallow for 76 days in main tank.

 

[NowGlazeIT]

Food and fresh sea water. Double check that temperature and salinity have been monitored and calibrated

 

[AcroNem]

You can attempt to manage it, but is not always successful and is a risk. I would suggest pulling them and treating and allowing the system to go fallow for the appropriate amount of time. Usually 76 days.

 

[Big G]

3 weeks ago upgraded tanks 120g to 220g. Same live rock new live sand. 80% new water. Didn’t lose any fish yet maroon clown had it fish cause clarkii clown was messing with him until they both found own anemone other side of tank. Clown tang looks worst. The maroon and long nose butterfly. Sail fin a little. Flame angel can’t see any coral beauty,other clown fish yellow belly tang looks good blue tang had a little but was hiding all day yesterday. Yellow tang also a little. Everyone’s eating good beside one blue tang. Clown tang swimming towards power head. Every one is trying to get cleaned by cleaner shrimp. Any suggestions to relieve them a little. I’m feeding nori 3 times a day. Pe mysis shrimp. With NLS pellets and freeze dried mysis soaked in selcon also nori soaked in selcon. I have an aqua 57w UV already. I’ve always had ick just never this bad.

The hiding and swimming into the powerhead are early symptoms of velvet. Using a flashlight shine the light at an long angle to the fish (like from head to tail direction) and look for a dusty sheen.

Emergency Treatment for Velvet. The long version here: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/velvet-amyloodinium-ocellatum.217570/

• 5 minute freshwater dip
• Immediately afterwards, perform a chemical bath (in saltwater matching SG/temp the fish came from). NOTE: THIS STEP GREATLY INCREASES SURVIVAL RATES You have two options:

1. Acriflavine (preferred) - Do the bath for 75-90 minutes, but remove the fish immediately at the first sign of distress. Aerate heavily both before & during the bath, and temperature control the water. The following products contain acriflavine: Acriflavine-MS and Ruby Reef Rally. DO NOT mix acriflavine with any other chemicals.
2. Formalin - Do the bath for 30-60 minutes max, but remove the fish immediately at the first sign of distress. Aerate heavily both before & during the bath, and temperature control the water. The following products contain formalin: Formalin-MS, Quick Cure, Aquarium Solutions Ich-X, Kordon Rid-Ich Plus. Use protection (rubber gloves, face mask, eye protection, etc.) whenever handling formalin as it is a known carcinogen! However, you can add Methylene Blue to the formalin bath (1 capful per 2-3 gallons of bath water.)

• After the bath, place the fish in a QT pre-dosed at 80mg/gal using Chloroquine phosphate. In theory, copper (exs. Cupramine, Coppersafe, Copper Power) should work just as well as CP. However, due to how fast velvet can reproduce you don’t have the luxury of slowly ramping up the copper level as is normally advised. Therefore, the fish needs to be placed in a QT with copper already at minimum therapeutic levels. This is the advantage CP has over copper in this particular situation.
• While in QT, use a wide spectrum antibiotic (exs. Seachem Kanaplex, Furan-2) for the first week to ward off any possible bacterial infections. Secondary bacterial infections are very common in fish with preexisting parasitic infestations such as velvet.
• Keep the fish in CP or copper (at therapeutic levels) for one month. However, you can transfer the fish into a non-medicated holding tank for observation after just two weeks (explained below). DO NOT lower the CP or copper level before transferring.