New tech equipment

Nmaran72

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what’s up gang I need some advice. After speaking with some of you and brs, I’ve decided to step it up. Where can I get info as to what dc pumps will work for me and why the importance of controlling the flow returning back in the tank. Keep in mind all I know is ac pumps. My tank has duel returns on a 120 gal tank and plan on putting 2 pumps also the same as power head pumps inside the tank. Basically what I want know is where do I begin because all this new to me.
 
I use a reef octopus dc as my return. It is great it runs about 1/2 speed most of the time. Plenty of flow for my setup but twice a day it runs at full for 10min. Helps mix it up a little bit both in the tank and the sump. I have a two return system. One is valved so it runs silent and the other is the emergency drain. Durning the 10 min of full power water goes down the emergency drain then after it returns to silent running. That’s the other thing about dc. There is absolutely no sound.
 
The difference is really simple for the most part. Biggest difference/upgrade to the DC pumps are the fact that you can control the flow rate from a set minimum to a maximum. DC are also quiter in my experience and usually consume less power than AC units. On the flip side, I've noticed DC pumps to have more issues/not last as long as AC pumps. In both my tanks, I have a mix of the two power styles of pumps. My skimmers use AC pumps, where my returns are all DC pumps. You will find most of your smaller flow rate pumps will be AC where as your higher flow rate pumps will offer both AC and DC.
 
You could run two separate return pumps that way if one failed the other could still keep things running until you get it replaced. Not a bad idea.
AC pumps are the older type you are familiar with. That have one speed and use a bit more power and more vibration. However there are really good AC pump like the WaterBlaster pumps.

DC pumps have variable speed control, slow start features (meaning when they start up its slow at first so not to splash water and air everywhere, also can help prevent damage it blocked. They also can be controlled by a third party co troller like and APEX, are efficient (use less electricity per gallons pumped), tend to be much more quite (my Varios is practically silent). Some also have even more features because they have a controller kind of like a little computer they can do cool things. Like an integrated float switch to protect against floods. Can detect problems and shut down before damage.
 
You could run two separate return pumps that way if one failed the other could still keep things running until you get it replaced. Not a bad idea.
AC pumps are the older type you are familiar with. That have one speed and use a bit more power and more vibration. However there are really good AC pump like the WaterBlaster pumps.

DC pumps have variable speed control, slow start features (meaning when they start up its slow at first so not to splash water and air everywhere, also can help prevent damage it blocked. They also can be controlled by a third party co troller like and APEX, are efficient (use less electricity per gallons pumped), tend to be much more quite (my Varios is practically silent). Some also have even more features because they have a controller kind of like a little computer they can do cool things. Like an integrated float switch to protect against floods. Can detect problems and shut down before damage.
I have been trying to understand all this new stuff however I get all the safety features about the safety part I just don’t understand why the need to control of pressure. I feel by applying less current to the return would slow down the amount of times the tank turns over. Wouldn’t that defeat the purpose. I am amazed at the improvements in technology. Very impressed with the apex controller and new lighting features. I still need to find out the difference in sump filtration.
 
You can do the following things for instance with a controllable DC pump:
Program feed modes where the return is slowed or stopped a set time to allow feeding without blowing the food everywhere or down into the sump before eaten.
I have a program in my APEX that makes the return start up slow and ramp up to the right % over a few minutes. This prevents water from splashing out of my display and all over my light, glass, or worse behind the tank onto electronics.
You could do what I did and get a larger pump than needed for return turn in down some for further savings or connect it to a manifold to run reactors. Don’t need a lot of flow, just enough to get dirty water to the skimmer.
You can program the pump to increase power when your fuge light comes on so more water is fed to it (I do this)
There are flow meters that can be put inline if the return and let you know when flow is blocked or slowed and adjust your pump to compensate for buildup.
In a closed loop a DC pump can be programmed to run an infinite number of flow patterns to create the random flow SPS like.
There are a lot of things that can be done.

However all you need is a reliAble pump to get the water from the sump to the display. I like haveing a DC pump and feed modes. When I feed I push one button and all powerheads stop, return slows just enough so it still feeds the refugium and keeps water from siphoning into the sump. This keeps the display still and my fish can eat up the food before it disappears.
 
I have been trying to understand all this new stuff however I get all the safety features about the safety part I just don’t understand why the need to control of pressure. I feel by applying less current to the return would slow down the amount of times the tank turns over. Wouldn’t that defeat the purpose. I am amazed at the improvements in technology. Very impressed with the apex controller and new lighting features. I still need to find out the difference in sump filtration.

There are two basic sump forms. Refugium sump and a non-refugium or Berlin sump. Berlin sumps have fewer sections but the are larger, a skimmer section and return. Refugium sumps have a refugium built in the sump, these are nice because we know that refugiums can significantly reduce nutrients in a reef aquarium. The problem is that often the built in refugium is too small to be effective for the system volume. 10% of the display is a minimum I say for a effective refugium. Means if your display is 120g then the refugium section should be ~12g. Also since the sump has more sections the other section are smaller. Smaller skimmer section limites your skimmer choices and cramped return section means that evaporation can cause the pump to run dry much sooner or you can not fit the pump or your choice. All a sump needs to do is allow you to run other equipment and filtration so that it is not in the display. Decided how you want to filter the system then look at sumps, I would get the biggest sump you can.
 
There are two basic sump forms. Refugium sump and a non-refugium or Berlin sump. Berlin sumps have fewer sections but the are larger, a skimmer section and return. Refugium sumps have a refugium built in the sump, these are nice because we know that refugiums can significantly reduce nutrients in a reef aquarium. The problem is that often the built in refugium is too small to be effective for the system volume. 10% of the display is a minimum I say for a effective refugium. Means if your display is 120g then the refugium section should be ~12g. Also since the sump has more sections the other section are smaller. Smaller skimmer section limites your skimmer choices and cramped return section means that evaporation can cause the pump to run dry much sooner or you can not fit the pump or your choice. All a sump needs to do is allow you to run other equipment and filtration so that it is not in the display. Decided how you want to filter the system then look at sumps, I would get the biggest sump you can.
Ok. Now I understand the pump control and sump Situation. Now it’s time to start pricing. Thanks for the help.
 

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