New to the hobbie. Cycling help

coronarex · Oct 15, 2017

Hello my name is Keith. My tank has been cycling for exactly 75 days. From what I have read on the forum, that seems to be plenty of time. All of my parameters are perfect except for ammonia. I have continuously been getting a reading of 0.25. I read that false positives are very common. I am using API testing kit. I am not sure what to do. Several weeks ago I removed Chemi Pure Blue, Purigen, and protein skimmer. This was suggested by a more experienced reefer on this forum. Should I add amm and retest in 24 hours? SHould I do a 25% water change? Some of my rock is beginning to collect coraline algae. I can faintly see the purple. I am a very patient guy, I am just unsure what to do next. SHould i just wait longer. My salinity is slighty high, (.028) i think that is to be excepted considering i have done only one water change(25%) this entire cycle. Not sure is thats causing anything. I am using RODI water and ATO. THanks guys.

Brew12 · Oct 15, 2017

coronarex said:
Hello my name is Keith. My tank has been cycling for exactly 75 days. From what I have read on the forum, that seems to be plenty of time. All of my parameters are perfect except for ammonia. I have continuously been getting a reading of 0.25. I read that false positives are very common. I am using API testing kit. I am not sure what to do. Several weeks ago I removed Chemi Pure Blue, Purigen, and protein skimmer. This was suggested by a more experienced reefer on this forum. Should I add amm and retest in 24 hours? SHould I do a 25% water change? Some of my rock is beginning to collect coraline algae. I can faintly see the purple. I am a very patient guy, I am just unsure what to do next. SHould i just wait longer. My salinity is slighty high, (.028) i think that is to be excepted considering i have done only one water change(25%) this entire cycle. Not sure is thats causing anything. I am using RODI water and ATO. THanks guys.

I would sample a freshly mixed gallon of saltwater for ammonia and see if you get o.25. That would let you know if your test kit is working.
I would also dose ammonia to get to 2ppm and verify it drops to oppm (or 0.25ppm on a bad API test kit)in 24 hours. You also want to make sure nitrates climb. That is a great back up to checking where your cycle is at.

Roy 9121 · Oct 15, 2017

Why would your number of water changes effect your salinity?

Jason mack · Oct 15, 2017

You should be testing salinity everyday imo , and especially if you don’t have a auto top off for fresh water , then you should be adding by hand your rodi water against evaporation , but you’ve stated you have both so then you need too adjust the level

Forsaken77 · Oct 15, 2017

coronarex said:
Hello my name is Keith. My tank has been cycling for exactly 75 days. From what I have read on the forum, that seems to be plenty of time. All of my parameters are perfect except for ammonia. I have continuously been getting a reading of 0.25. I read that false positives are very common. I am using API testing kit. I am not sure what to do. Several weeks ago I removed Chemi Pure Blue, Purigen, and protein skimmer. This was suggested by a more experienced reefer on this forum. Should I add amm and retest in 24 hours? SHould I do a 25% water change? Some of my rock is beginning to collect coraline algae. I can faintly see the purple. I am a very patient guy, I am just unsure what to do next. SHould i just wait longer. My salinity is slighty high, (.028) i think that is to be excepted considering i have done only one water change(25%) this entire cycle. Not sure is thats causing anything. I am using RODI water and ATO. THanks guys.

Don't know what you're using for Ammonia, but Dr Tims Ammonium Chloride would be the way to go. Obviously ammonia is the first link in the chain of the nitrogen cycle. So if you have ammonia, then everything else isn't set. Try sticking a Seachem ammonia alert badge in your sump. You should have probably left your lights off during cycling. That could be cyano bacteria and not coralline. See if it blows off easily.

If using RODI, you could possibly have chloramines in your water and aren't using the right filter? That would let ammonia through.

coronarex · Oct 15, 2017

Roy 9121 said:
Why would your number of water changes effect your salinity?

Idk, I wondered if it gradually increased Bc my ato has been adding freshwater for 75 days straight. (One 1 wc)

4FordFamily · Oct 15, 2017

Welcome, first of all.

I also agree with testing freshly mixed saltwater to compare.

coronarex · Oct 15, 2017

Forsaken77 said:
Don't know what you're using for Ammonia, but Dr Tims Ammonium Chloride would be the way to go. Obviously ammonia is the first link in the chain of the nitrogen cycle. So if you have ammonia, then everything else isn't set. Try sticking a Seachem ammonia alert badge in your sump. You should have probably left your lights off during cycling. That could be cyano bacteria and not coralline. See if it blows off easily.

If using RODI, you could possibly have chloramines in your water and aren't using the right filter? That would let ammonia through.

I am using dr Tim’s and ro/di water. I will test some ro water to see if ammonia reads. Lights have been on since beginning. Tank is bare bottom. What do you mean by blow off? I am familiar w cyno from my hitech planted tank. Don’t think it’s that, but will experiment w your suggestions once you clarify. Thanks

coronarex · Oct 15, 2017

4FordFamily said:
Welcome, first of all.

I also agree with testing freshly mixed saltwater to compare.

I have a batch in the works. What about adding prime to reset?

coronarex · Oct 15, 2017

Jason mack said:
You should be testing salinity everyday imo , and especially if you don’t have a auto top off for fresh water , then you should be adding by hand your rodi water against evaporation , but you’ve stated you have both so then you need too adjust the level

I added some fresh ro water, working on gettin it down a smig

Roy 9121 · Oct 15, 2017

coronarex said:
Idk, I wondered if it gradually increased Bc my ato has been adding freshwater for 75 days straight. (One 1 wc)

It should stay the same.

coronarex · Oct 15, 2017

Roy 9121 said:
It should stay the same.

Okay makes since. I’ll make sure it’s perfect before adding fish

Wankell · Oct 15, 2017

If it has been running that long, I would just add some live nitrifying bacteria and call it a day. Fish can be added right after that.

Forsaken77 · Oct 15, 2017

Wankell said:
If it has been running that long, I would just add some live nitrifying bacteria and call it a day. Fish can be added right after that.

Being it's been running that long and has ammonia, I'm willing to bet most of the bacteria has either died back or dwindled from lack of an added bioload. Almost like it's recycling a bit if bacteria wasn't kept up and fed.
So yea, maybe adding some microbacter7, Biospira, or Dr Tims 1 & Only will do the trick. He's just going to have to stock slowly.

Forsaken77 · Oct 15, 2017

coronarex said:
I am using dr Tim’s and ro/di water. I will test some ro water to see if ammonia reads. Lights have been on since beginning. Tank is bare bottom. What do you mean by blow off? I am familiar w cyno from my hitech planted tank. Don’t think it’s that, but will experiment w your suggestions once you clarify. Thanks

What I meant by blow off was does the coralline looking algae easily wipe off the rock with your hand or turkey baster? Like it loosens if you put some force to it? Or is it hard?

Your planted tank was freshwater or saltwater?

I always usually assume the person doesn't know everything and try to explain things as if the person were new to the hobby. So I wasn't saying you don't know what's going on, just covering the basics just in case

coronarex · Oct 15, 2017

Wankell said:
If it has been running that long, I would just add some live nitrifying bacteria and call it a day. Fish can be added right after that.

I was thinking the same. What product do u recommend?

Wankell · Oct 15, 2017

Dr Tims has worked for me in the past but I was told that Fritz Turbostart 900 is better quality. Look for it in the refrigerated section of your LFS.

coronarex · Oct 15, 2017

Forsaken77 said:
What I meant by blow off was does the coralline looking algae easily wipe off the rock with your hand or turkey baster? Like it loosens if you put some force to it? Or is it hard?

Your planted tank was freshwater or saltwater?

I always usually assume the person doesn't know everything and try to explain things as if the person were new to the hobby. So I wasn't saying you don't know what's going on, just covering the basics just in case

It does not blow off. My planted tank is fresh.
I really appreciate you explaining everything. and i appreciate the quick replies all of you have given. It means more than you know. This hobby brings me so much joy

coronarex · Oct 15, 2017

Wankell said:
Dr Tims has worked for me in the past but I was told that Fritz Turbostart 900 is better quality. Look for it in the refrigerated section of your LFS.

Thank you. I will head to my LFS as soon as I get outta class tmw.

coronarex · Oct 15, 2017

Forsaken77 said:
Being it's been running that long and has ammonia, I'm willing to bet most of the bacteria has either died back or dwindled from lack of an added bioload. Almost like it's recycling a bit if bacteria wasn't kept up and fed.
So yea, maybe adding some microbacter7, Biospira, or Dr Tims 1 & Only will do the trick. He's just going to have to stock slowly.

Wow, i wouldve never thought that but it makes perfect sense. You guys are the ****! I will pick up some dr tims tmw. Wish me luck!