New to this - help!!!!

[2012]

A cone skimmer is a protein skimmer that has a shape like a cone. The theory behind it is that the cone shape makes it easier for the bubble to rise in the chamber. Most newer skimmers and many high end skimmers have this design. The guys I know who run them love them. I would say if you get one appropriately sized for your needs and fits in your budget go for it. My next skimmer will most likely be a cone.

Thanks for that, cone skimmer it is. i have noticed that newer skimmers have this shape and are not too expensive, especially as it is so important to get a good one. The cost of the lights is something i'm not too happy about!!! Anyway i'll get over it!!!

I could do with some advice on R/O units, again so many out there:
3 stage up to 7 i think i saw!??!?!
electronic ones and whatever else.

I have just ordered a tank which will take a few weeks to arrive, then i am building another tank to help me learn more
but need the ready made tank to reverse engineer. My idea is get an expert to make a tank then well er, copy it to save some money.

 

[lpslover]

Is too much live rock a problem?? If so what problem can this cause?

I prefer to go with about 1/2 lb per gallon rather than the often quoted 1-2 lbs/gallon. Yes, the more live rock the more surface area for biofiltration and the more bacteria initially introduced. The problem however, is that you need sufficient open space to move water effectively around the system. Otherwise you will end up with a bunch of dead zones in and around the rock work where detritus collects and rots which can make nutrient control a nightmare. The first tank I set up, I used the 1lb/1gal rule and ended up with exactly that issue. The last two builds I've gone with more like 1/2lb/gal and I've been much happier with the result. My advice: set it up with less, run it for a couple days and look at the water flow. If you think more rock could work, you can always add more.

 

[2012]

I prefer to go with about 1/2 lb per gallon rather than the often quoted 1-2 lbs/gallon. Yes, the more live rock the more surface area for biofiltration and the more bacteria initially introduced. The problem however, is that you need sufficient open space to move water effectively around the system. Otherwise you will end up with a bunch of dead zones in and around the rock work where detritus collects and rots which can make nutrient control a nightmare. The first tank I set up, I used the 1lb/1gal rule and ended up with exactly that issue. The last two builds I've gone with more like 1/2lb/gal and I've been much happier with the result. My advice: set it up with less, run it for a couple days and look at the water flow. If you think more rock could work, you can always add more.

Hi Ipslover,

I like you!!! Good thinking. I like the idea of being able to add more later. I was worried that too much live rock would cause problems with flow, cleaning and detritus build up as live rock should not be placed around the edges. So i was worried about having a live rock tank as i was told you should have as much as possible, however many setups i have seen have very little if any in the tank and all or most in the sump.

I will get a good protein skimmer though so with that and your advice to have open space to avoid dead zones i hope flow shouldn't be too much of a problem but i will keep an eye on this.

Do you have any advice on how to remove any unwanted critters from new live rock?? Do i need a clean up crew first after the water is cycled to help remove bad critters??

Thanks again.

 

[lpslover]

Do you have any advice on how to remove any unwanted critters from new live rock?? Do i need a clean up crew first after the water is cycled to help remove bad critters??

In my experience most of the unwanted pests on the original live rock will be automatically starved and quarantined out as you cycle the tank, so I don't worry about it. Though this applies to a new tank and new live rock. Introducing new rock into an older system (past the initial first week or so running) is a whole other ball game. The last tank I did I set the tank up with substrate, rock, water, heater and filtration and ran the system for a week with no lights, food or other additions. Without light or food there isn't much to sustain pests, and the unstable water chemistry of those first few days makes the environment inhospitable. The second week I started adding some fish food and bacterial cultures daily to get the tank cycling, but I still left the lights off. So basically all the rock was QT'ed for two weeks with no light and zero to minimal feeding with less than ideal water chemistry. Yes there was still nuisance algae down the road, (that stuff is freaking bullet proof.) But most things are not going to survive that.

Anything you would do to sanitize live rock would also kill off any good bacteria, which is kind of the point to having live rock in the first place, and clean up crews primarily remove nuisance algae and detritus. I wouldn't add them until the tank has cycled and you are noticing dirty substrate and plentiful nuisance algae. If you add them too early, they'll starve. There are critters that can be used to control specific animal pests, but they have their own issues, among them not always being reef safe. So I wouldn't bother unless you are experiencing a specific problem.

If you are really concerned about pests, you can use cured aragacrete or purpose made ceramic structures instead of live rock, though most say the tank will take longer to cycle without live rock.

 

[harley]

personally I'd do 90% dry rock from marco rocks or reeflceaners.org, then get a couple pounds of LR from a LFS and let that seed the rest! It takes couple more weeks but will save ya $$$$$$ bulkreefsupply also has some great rock!

And I love my turbos, they are bulldozers, so just get your rock work set! a cool thing to do is set it up dry outside your tank and drill it and use acrylic plugs from lows to connect the pieces! Also, emeralds can eat corals, prob won't, make sure they have rounded claws, pointy ones are false emeralds and seem to cause probs

 

[harley]

and if ya go the marco rock or bulk reef eco rock stick to 1 pound per gallons max, that stuff takes up a ton of space, very porous!

 

[2012]

Ipslover,

Perfect, Thanks really great information. Please add anything else you may think will be helpful to me.

 

[2012]

personally I'd do 90% dry rock from marco rocks or reeflceaners.org, then get a couple pounds of LR from a LFS and let that seed the rest! It takes couple more weeks but will save ya $$$$$$ bulkreefsupply also has some great rock!

And I love my turbos, they are bulldozers, so just get your rock work set! a cool thing to do is set it up dry outside your tank and drill it and use acrylic plugs from lows to connect the pieces! Also, emeralds can eat corals, prob won't, make sure they have rounded claws, pointy ones are false emeralds and seem to cause probs

Hi harley,

Thanks for that, I have looked up dry rock but i cannot find any, anywhere. I am from the U.K not the U.S
Problem with U.K forums is people are slow to respond, maybe most people too busy looking at other things on the internet!!
Reefing is not so big in the U.K, not many shops etc. So it is difficult for me to find information in the U.K
I have visited a few shops but there are none where i live and they are far so takes a lot of time.

The reef setups i have seen are mainly American and i have seen some amazing setups there from the internet, youtube etc.
So i hope to get better information from the U.S. having more experience.

I joined a couple of U.K forums and wasted my time to be honest.
Since joining this forum i have had much great information which is helping me to progress.

I even looked on ebay, they dont even sell fake dry rock!!!
ebay is the best place to find reef items here as everyone can advertise on it.

So unfortunately dry rock is not an option for me.
If you can help with other information please do.

Thanks

 

[ColaAddict]

liveaquaria.com is a great place to start for info and pictures. you could also always just google individual livestock.

 

[lpslover]

Ipslover, Perfect, Thanks really great information. Please add anything else you may think will be helpful to me.

More than welcome. Best general advice I wish someone had given me when I started this obsession we call reef keeping: Be patient. Wild reefs didn't come to be overnight and neither will yours. Most of my regrettable reefing moments have been related to being impatient and trying to rush things along or panicking and trying to fix something that I should have given time to sort itself out.

harley mentioned Bulk Aquarium Supplies - Reef Aquarium Supplies | BulkReefSupply.com they are awesome. I don't know if they ship to the UK, but you might check with them. Their site says they will ship to Canada, so they might be open to shipping to the UK. They've got some great stuff at unbeatable prices. Even with currency exchange and international shipping you may still be able to save some money versus your limited local selections.

 

[2012]

Circulation Pump

Hi All,

I have been busy setting up my new office, nearly done and my tank has now got my time.

I have filled it with water (ro-di) and added salt just waiting for the salinity to settle then LIVE ROCK time!!!!
I have a protein skimmer on the way and a TMC sand bed filter.

The problem i am having is the power of the circulation pump.
I bought a Tunze Silence pump but a small one 300-800 litres/hour but this is not very powerful (i did not know)
maybe i can use this for the sand bed filter if not it goes on ebay!!!

my tank is 80 gallons - what pump do i need??? (2000 litres / hour)??? more / less??
any advice on a good quality pump??
I have seen some adjustable pumps but not many available.

Thanks

 

[2012]

I decided not to go for my original tank of 110 gallons yet!!! (as stated on my first page)
I have got a smaller 80 gallon tank which i am setting up first so i get used to this.
I am then going for the larger tank and also one more smaller tank for my office just as display.