Newb question: Single bulkhead drain from tank but 2 inputs to sump...

[Onewolf]

We are getting an Aqueon 90 gal reef ready tank which has 2 holes drilled in the overflow. I assumed we were going to get an Eshopps RS-200 sump however I noticed the RS-200 has 2 input/drain connection ports.

Dumb question: Would I split/tee the drain line into 2 lines to connect to the sump or would it be more appropriate to get a sump with only 1 input port (like the RS-100 or R100)?

Thanks.

PS: I assume I would want to plumb in a ball valve into the drain plumbing between the tank and sump?

 

[JoshH]

You can get whatever sump you like, I think plumbing a T in is kindof a waste of time with just one drain. I would however, suggest using the standard return as your main drain (Siphon). The regular drain as your secondary drain essentially turning your overflow into a Herbie style drain. I would then plumb your return over the top of your tank, or if your skilled enough, try and drill it into the back of the aquarium. This is a pretty much standard modification to the "Reef Ready" tanks. It provides a much quieter, easier to adjust setup and it would also solve your dual drain dilemma with your sump because you would need to use both. In this case you would definitely use a gate valve on the main siphon drain to adjust the flow to match the return pump. Not usually a job for a ball valve as they do not provide the fine adjustment needed to match flow rates.

 

[Onewolf]

Thanks for the quick reply. If I was to drill the tank to add a new bulkhead for the return what location would you suggest given this tank configuration (offset left overflow) ? Thanks.

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[Jettareefer223]

It’s a common road block easily worked around with smaller standard size that tank having 1 drain/return(utilizing single overflow).

I service and install reef tanks I would always try to install a sump option with 2 inputs for several reasons: It really helps dampen noise of the water falling ball or gate valve will help even more/ less mess Aka salt creep from evenly more evenly distributed flow vs. all the air/water forces thru single sump drain, more efficient mechanical filteration, being able divide water flow between inputs depending on sump let’s say one’s sock/one’s refug for example you now have ability to control fine tune it to your preference.

For ex: (I believe I listed the correct model info right below for the one I would install on that setup. The Trigger Systems crystal 30”x14” which has 2 filter socks (2 drain inputs )configured on left-back corner of the sump if centered under stand it would align for planned setup.

Plumbing layout=(starting at drain inputs on the sump and going upwards). There’s enough space a valve on each inputs for fine tuning > 90 degree elbows on each > t fitting centered between the the 2 90 elbows to flow naturally divided as it work it’s way down > run a single pipe drain bulkhead I would add a schedule 80 union at bulkhead for you drain out of the tank and another schedule 80 union where you merge into one pipe at the t fitting for the 2 sump drains. This will allow if you need be able move or remove the sump without cutting the pipe gluing. You unscrew union on either end do you work or whatever get the sump pipes back and tighten the unions no waiting for glue to cure or worry about you livestock. It looks professional and clean and benefit plumb initially will easier and cleaner as well.

I would get a better design than the esshops I’m just looking out for you. I’ve
been in the business for a long time. My friend bought several the rep got him buy into their cryptic zone gibberish. He end spending at least double money bc after 4-5 month he was fed up not happy with eshopps later buying trigger system sumps to replace them. I know they’re good deal and on paper the functionality sounds cool. I can remember helping ato floats valves we has raise the water level pretty high. Then have zen reef custom build magnet mounts bc OEM glued it wouldn’t allow full range of motion with recommended pump chamber his was tall/narrown you got hands a in there you see couldn’t see let actually moved you hand enough to be of any use.. They don’t flow efficiently at all /unnecessarily hard to work on under the stand!!!/ flimsy cheap and they a messy in terms salt creep/wicking water lidsnwhich will damage stand/and hardware over time.

Trigger systems are far better quality t lip/trim runs the border keeps spill out during maintaince, the I know they very standard layout (sock and sump chamber>Refugium>bubble baffle>pump chamber) , but it functional 100%. Nice open so easy to work on and room extra equipment.

This my personal tank I used the 2 schedule 80 unions on each drain for ease maintenance, it’s plug and play reassembly is a breeze, and I just like the way it looks as well. Hopefully it will make more sense if my description wasn’t great lol. It has trigger systems crystal elite 30 sump and their tideline over external overflow (I went with Planet Aquariums had them custom build my rimless). I included a picture of my sump so you can see what I was describing and get an idea formality/layout.

 

[Onewolf]

For the bulkheads in the bottom of the tank, is it best to use threaded or (glued) slip fittings for the drains down into the sump. Looking at your photos, it looks like the bulkheads are slip fittings?

Thanks.

 

[Jettareefer223]

For the bulkheads in the bottom of the tank, is it best to use threaded or (glued) slip fittings for the drains down into the sump. Looking at your photos, it looks like the bulkheads are slip fittings?

Thanks.

Slip for sure always if you can, and you get the megaflow overflow kit with the tank you’ll have to get regular bulkheads. I always try to limit future leaks and threaded stuff has a tendency to do that. I know you had mentioned utilizing both holes in the overflow I wouldn’t honestly. That one drain will handle quite a bit of water flow more than you would ever want going thru a sump lol.