Newbe Mistake

[bmr]

I only had a clown fish and no coral in my tank and decided to add a tang. Since my tank was new any I only had a clown I added the tang directly with a blenney to the tank. After a couple of days the tang started showing spots. I scurried down to the LFS and bought non copper ich treatment. Within a week the tang was a floater and the clown was showing spots. I switched to a copper based ich treatment and the ich seems to be under control. No spots on the clown and the Blenny is fine.

Lessons
Always use a QT tank regardless of what isn't in your tank. Treating 200+ gallons is very expensive in comparison to 20 gallons.

Non copper based treatments do not work very well in my newbe opinion. I would have a whole lot more issues if I had coral because I understand coral is not copper tolerant . My snails had to be moved to the qt tank until treatment is over.

As stated thousands of time on the site, qt and be patient.

RIP - bobby the blue tang

 

[Steelerfan747]

did you properly acclimate or just throw him in?

 

[wysiwyg]

tangs are ich magnets and should always be qt and treated

 

[robert]

Ouch - you didn't copper your 200 gallon system did you?

 

[bmr]

I did acclimate, not drip but temp adjustment then % water change in the bag. I will use drip in the future to keep from introducing the LFS water my systems.

 

[bmr]

Ouch - you didn't copper your 200 gallon system did you?

Yep, it will be awhile before I add anything else. 6 weeks or more with large water changes in the latter weeks.

 

[pgr11]

Hope your rock does not absorb the copper then leach it out later. hope things go better for you in the future

 

[bmr]

tangs are ich magnets and should always be qt and treated

Agreed posted as a warning to other newbes like myself.

 

[bmr]

Hope your rock does not absorb the copper then leach it out later. hope things go better for you in the future

Ditto

 

[SeahorseKeeper]

Bummer, but it is good that you started this thread. Hopefully some others will learn from this.

 

[robert]

I don't mean to be a downer - I know you meant well, but the copper in your display is really a problem - it will be very difficult to remove.

I would be inclined to forget about the ich for the moment - you have a bigger problem. You want to get that copper out ASAP before more can be absorbed into rock, sand or sealant.

Water change - the bigger the better - if you can totally change your water do it - put the clown and blenny in with the snails. After the water change - get some seachem cuprisorb and get it running. Seachem. CupriSorb

 

[ritter6788]

Thanks for posting. I'm sure it was hard but you see so many times on forums that people only post the good and not the learning experiences.

 

[Quinn123]

I totally agree that non copper base does work at all.

 

[robert]

You'll also want to ditch any GFO. carbon or other media your running. I just went through your build thread by the way - you've set up an awesome system.
How much trouble you have getting the copper out will be dependent to a large degree to the form of copper you used. Some forms bind strongly to rock and substrate and others much less so.
The real difficulty is that no test kit will measure down to the level you need to be sure its gone. Natural seawater has copper in the parts per billion range - most test kits test in the parts per million range and for copper to be effective against ich - your dosing well over 1000x natural levels.

The cuprisorb will get the levels down to where they need to be in the water - the question will be how much got sucked into the rock etc where it "may" leach over time.
But regardless - You'll get it out -

 

[bmr]

You'll also want to ditch any GFO. carbon or other media your running. I just went through your build thread by the way - you've set up an awesome system.
How much trouble you have getting the copper out will be dependent to a large degree to the form of copper you used. Some forms bind strongly to rock and substrate and others much less so.
The real difficulty is that no test kit will measure down to the level you need to be sure its gone. Natural seawater has copper in the parts per billion range - most test kits test in the parts per million range and for copper to be effective against ich - your dosing well over 1000x natural levels.

The cuprisorb will get the levels down to where they need to be in the water - the question will be how much got sucked into the rock etc where it "may" leach over time.
But regardless - You'll get it out -

Hey Robert, Thanks for the advice. I have some cuprisorp on the way and I already have GFO / carbon to replace the old in the reactors.

Sometimes our mistakes are like shipwrecks....there to serve as a warning to other passing ships

 

[robert]

Not a shipwreck - just a minor setback and I've got to say you've got a great attitude about it, I can tell how much thought, work and care went into your build.

I was worried I came off as being too alarmist - in this hobby everyone makes mistakes - this one is no bigger than many I have made. It just means backing up, and doing some stuff over.
The cupisorb will clean up the tank. If you let your pH drop - maybe even bring it down with some carbonated (unflavored) soda water, I'd bet your rock and substrate will clean up as well.

Keep us posted as to how things progress - I'm looking forward to seeing your tank after its all stocked.

Robert.

 

[mallorieGgator]

Bummer. I would run copper absorber for quite some time. Thanks for posting for new reefers. I'm sure it happens more ofter then people realize.

 

[Steven R]

Man sorry you had to do it in the display good luck and +1 on copperzorb in a hurry or you will not be able to add any corals. Good luck and we all have set back's I just had two my self.

 

[bmr]

200 + gallon water change by Sunday. All media exchanged after fist 80 gallons, no measurable copper. What is the best copper testing kit?

 

[bmr]

2000 gph going through the CupriSorb. 10 x turn over per hour.