Newbie controller question

[airvicconcre]

Hello everyone. I am very new to the marine aquarium hobby and I have a 150gallon display tank (fish only) and a 100 gallon sump right underneath it. I live in India and the availability of salt water equipments are at a minimal. I’m currently traveling in the USA and am very intrigued by controllers ie Apex, GHL and hydros. Being an amateur what do you guys think, which controller should I or should I not get for my fish only setup. Any help is appreciated. Thanking you all in advance.

 

[mdb_talon]

Honestly with a fish only setup I would buy a controllable outlet and an ATO and call it good

To be fair though I have a ton of coral and still dont have a full function controller (though have tried a couple in the past).

 

[airvicconcre]

Honestly with a fish only setup I would buy a controllable outlet and an ATO and call it good

To be fair though I have a ton of coral and still dont have a full function controller (though have tried a couple in the past).

Thank you so much. Looking at so many options I’m just getting confused and don’t wanna miss out whilst I’m here in the States. Thank you for your insight. Anything I should get that’s a necessity for a fish only tank?

 

[n2585722]

Thank you so much. Looking at so many options I’m just getting confused and don’t wanna miss out whilst I’m here in the States. Thank you for your insight. Anything I should get that’s a necessity for a fish only tank?

Anything you get here needs to be compatible with you power source to work where you are. If it is sold in the US then it is made for our power source here. Other than that most of them will do the common things you will want to do. Just make sure and get everything you will need with it.

 

[airvicconcre]

Anything you get here needs to be compatible with you power source to work where you are. If it is sold in the US then it is made for our power source here. Other than that most of them will do the common things you will want to do. Just make sure and get everything you will need with it.

Hi. You’re right, the USA power voltage is 120-60hz and in India it’s 220-50hz. I will have to probably have to attach whatever I buy here to a power converter. What probes would be a necessity for a fish only aquarium? Any insight is helpful.

 

[n2585722]

Hi. You’re right, the USA power voltage is 120-60hz and in India it’s 220-50hz. I will have to probably have to attach whatever I buy here to a power converter. What probes would be a necessity for a fish only aquarium? Any insight is helpful.

I am only familiar with the Hydros but the Control 4 starter kit comes with the X4, pH probe, Temp sensor, power pack and one wifi power strip. The power strip is 120v 60hz so you would need some kind of adapter but the power pack is different. It is listed as 100-240v 50-60hz so that appears like it would work for you. Since the wifi strips are Tuya protocol there may be one that is sold for your country that will pair with the Hydros. Look for one that looks like the Hydros power strips except has your power sockets instead of the US sokents. Hydros does not make their own wifi strips. They get them from a supplier that makes them for several brands. The only thing is that the Hydros would require a wifi system and internet service. You would probably want to get a ATO kit with it that has a water level sensor and a small pump. I got a Hydros dosing pump and a separate water level sensor for my ATO. That would leave you another drive port which can power solenoids, Hydros dosing pump or the small ATO pump. You would also have two unused sense ports that can be used for leak detectors, temp sensors, water level sensors, Hydros TDS meter. There is also 4 0-10v input ports on the X4 along with 4 0-10v output ports. You would have to get some cables to use those ports unless you have access to GX12 connectors and can make your own cables. If that is not enough ports you can also add another controller with the ports you need use a command buss cable to connect them together. You would also need at least one terminator with a small collective. Once you create the collective and add in the second controller then it will act like one larger controller with all the inputs and outputs combined from each controller in the collective. I have 9 controllers in a collective but they are not all at the tank. Some are in my garage 35ft from the tank. I have to use a data only command buss cable to go between the controller at the tank and the ones in the garage but they all act as if they are one controller. If you click on my build thread contributor banner here on R2R it will take you to my build thread. Once there the Hydros information starts on page 7 if you want to see more info and screenshots of settings for inputs and outputs.

 

[airvicconcre]

I am only familiar with the Hydros but the Control 4 starter kit comes with the X4, pH probe, Temp sensor, power pack and one wifi power strip. The power strip is 120v 60hz so you would need some kind of adapter but the power pack is different. It is listed as 100-240v 50-60hz so that appears like it would work for you. Since the wifi strips are Tuya protocol there may be one that is sold for your country that will pair with the Hydros. Look for one that looks like the Hydros power strips except has your power sockets instead of the US sokents. Hydros does not make their own wifi strips. They get them from a supplier that makes them for several brands. The only thing is that the Hydros would require a wifi system and internet service. You would probably want to get a ATO kit with it that has a water level sensor and a small pump. I got a Hydros dosing pump and a separate water level sensor for my ATO. That would leave you another drive port which can power solenoids, Hydros dosing pump or the small ATO pump. You would also have two unused sense ports that can be used for leak detectors, temp sensors, water level sensors, Hydros TDS meter. There is also 4 0-10v input ports on the X4 along with 4 0-10v output ports. You would have to get some cables to use those ports unless you have access to GX12 connectors and can make your own cables. If that is not enough ports you can also add another controller with the ports you need use a command buss cable to connect them together. You would also need at least one terminator with a small collective. Once you create the collective and add in the second controller then it will act like one larger controller with all the inputs and outputs combined from each controller in the collective. I have 9 controllers in a collective but they are not all at the tank. Some are in my garage 35ft from the tank. I have to use a data only command buss cable to go between the controller at the tank and the ones in the garage but they all act as if they are one controller. If you click on my build thread contributor banner here on R2R it will take you to my build thread. Once there the Hydros information starts on page 7 if you want to see more info and screenshots of settings for inputs and outputs.

Thank you so much for your help. I will go to a local marine aquarium store in Seattle and try to pick up most of the equipments you’ve mentioned here. )

 

[n2585722]

Thank you so much for your help. I will go to a local marine aquarium store in Seattle and try to pick up most of the equipments you’ve mentioned here. )

I also just checked the XP8 on their website and it is rated for 110-220v. The only issue would be the connectors and you would have to use 220v AC devices on the outlets. It is an 8 outlet controller. You can get them in the pro packs with either a X4 or X3. The pro pack comes with both controllers 2 terminators and a command buss cable. They also have a temp sensor and a pH probe. Since the XP8 also powers the buss the power pack is not needed to power the X4. In fact you cannot use the power pack that connects to a buss port if either a XP8 or a Wave Engine is connected to the buss unless there is a data only cable between the power pack and the Wave Engine and/or XP8.

Here is the spec's from their website

Features or the HYDROS Control XP8​

• Power up to 14 amps of system-critical life support equipment
• The Control XP8 is a full brain that can share and take over the decision-making of a HYDROS Collective
• Control up to 8 WiFi devices like fish feeders, smart outlets, and even additional WiFi power strips
• Command Bus port provides power add redundancy power to your HYDROS Collective
• Designed to pass ETL/UL Certification
• Universal voltage works with both 110 and 220V
• Built-in 60W Meanwell Power Supply
• No noisy fans, the XP8 is completely passively cooled
• Optical isolation between the power circuitry and the control circuitry. This provides safety failure, and it isolates the control circuitry to reduce noise.
• Engineered, assembled, and supported in the USA.

 

[airvicconcre]

Y

I also just checked the XP8 on their website and it is rated for 110-220v. The only issue would be the connectors and you would have to use 220v AC devices on the outlets. It is an 8 outlet controller. You can get them in the pro packs with either a X4 or X3. The pro pack comes with both controllers 2 terminators and a command buss cable. They also have a temp sensor and a pH probe. Since the XP8 also powers the buss the power pack is not needed to power the X4. In fact you cannot use the power pack that connects to a buss port if either a XP8 or a Wave Engine is connected to the buss unless there is a data only cable between the power pack and the Wave Engine and/or XP8.

Here is the spec's from their website

Features or the HYDROS Control XP8​

• Power up to 14 amps of system-critical life support equipment
• The Control XP8 is a full brain that can share and take over the decision-making of a HYDROS Collective
• Control up to 8 WiFi devices like fish feeders, smart outlets, and even additional WiFi power strips
• Command Bus port provides power add redundancy power to your HYDROS Collective
• Designed to pass ETL/UL Certification
• Universal voltage works with both 110 and 220V
• Built-in 60W Meanwell Power Supply
• No noisy fans, the XP8 is completely passively cooled
• Optical isolation between the power circuitry and the control circuitry. This provides safety failure, and it isolates the control circuitry to reduce noise.
• Engineered, assembled, and supported in the USA.

I also just checked the XP8 on their website and it is rated for 110-220v. The only issue would be the connectors and you would have to use 220v AC devices on the outlets. It is an 8 outlet controller. You can get them in the pro packs with either a X4 or X3. The pro pack comes with both controllers 2 terminators and a command buss cable. They also have a temp sensor and a pH probe. Since the XP8 also powers the buss the power pack is not needed to power the X4. In fact you cannot use the power pack that connects to a buss port if either a XP8 or a Wave Engine is connected to the buss unless there is a data only cable between the power pack and the Wave Engine and/or XP8.

Here is the spec's from their website

Features or the HYDROS Control XP8​

• Power up to 14 amps of system-critical life support equipment
• The Control XP8 is a full brain that can share and take over the decision-making of a HYDROS Collective
• Control up to 8 WiFi devices like fish feeders, smart outlets, and even additional WiFi power strips
• Command Bus port provides power add redundancy power to your HYDROS Collective
• Designed to pass ETL/UL Certification
• Universal voltage works with both 110 and 220V
• Built-in 60W Meanwell Power Supply
• No noisy fans, the XP8 is completely passively cooled
• Optical isolation between the power circuitry and the control circuitry. This provides safety failure, and it isolates the control circuitry to reduce noise.
• Engineered, assembled, and supported in the USA.

Do you think I should go for the xp8?
another stupid question.
I have two wave makers brand Mantis. One cove protein skimmer. Will they be adaptable with the hydros xp8?

 

[n2585722]

Y


Do you think I should go for the xp8?
another stupid question.
I have two wave makers brand Mantis. One cove protein skimmer. Will they be adaptable with the hydros xp8?

It appears the only issue would be you would need adapters to change to the US type of AC socket on the XP8 and also to adapt the XP8 plug to you type of AC plug.

 

[airvicconcre]

The

It appears the only issue would be you would need adapters to change to the US type of AC socket on the XP8 and also to adapt the XP8 plug to you type of AC plug.

The points I have for my aquarium equiptments all have American type plugs so that shouldn’t be an issue.

 

[n2585722]

The

The points I have for my aquarium equiptments all have American type plugs so that shouldn’t be an issue.

Are they 120v items? If so then you would need the XP8 on 120v also.

 

[airvicconcre]

Are they 120v items? If so then you would need the XP8 on 120v also.

Yes, you’re right. The only worry I have is that when I plug it in I don’t wanna blow up the unit.

 

[n2585722]

I doubt that 120v will cause an issue since that is what they run on here. To most things the 50-60hz does not matter since most power supplies are made to run on either. The XP8 has an internal Meanwell power supply and all of the Meanwell supplies I have seen will run on either 50 or 60hz. I have one for 24v and it will run on both and has a voltage range of 100v-240v. Most new supplies are switch mode power supplies and are regulated by the DC output voltage so they can designto run with a wider range of voltages than before the switch mode supplies were used.

 

[airvicconcre]

I doubt that 120v will cause an issue since that is what they run on here. To most things the 50-60hz does not matter since most power supplies are made to run on either. The XP8 has an internal Meanwell power supply and all of the Meanwell supplies I have seen will run on either 50 or 60hz. I have one for 24v and it will run on both and has a voltage range of 100v-240v. Most new supplies are switch mode power supplies and are regulated by the DC output voltage so they can designto run with a wider range of voltages than before the switch mode supplies were used.

I’m gonna buy the hydros. Read some good reviews too however their customers service is an issue is what people have been writing.

 

[ColonelCrow]

Hi. You’re right, the USA power voltage is 120-60hz and in India it’s 220-50hz. I will have to probably have to attach whatever I buy here to a power converter. What probes would be a necessity for a fish only aquarium? Any insight is helpful.

I stopped reading at this point as i would very much encourage other options, someone else may have recommended and if so I will parrot it... power converters are yet another and very likely high chance failure point. Anything you buy here could be bought elsewhere without using something like a power converter. If purchasing online is an option for you maybe to pick up elsewhere as you travel home if it cannot be shipped to home? but i would highly suggest getting a European/Asian model that matches your power if in any way you can over a U.S. model and using a power converter.

Every time i leave the u.s. i have nightmares about plugging in my laptop or phone through a power converter. Luckily i havent run into problems myself but i have read many horror stories and the thought of my tanks life support going through one would have me choosing to run with no controller.

Theyre absolutely lovely to have but not necessary especially if it means adding another point of failure.

 

[n2585722]

I’m gonna buy the hydros. Read some good reviews too however their customers service is an issue is what people have been writing.

Here is a link the the official Hydros group on facebook https://www.facebook.com/groups/hydrosgroup/?ref=share .

Also here is a link to the Hydros forum https://forum.coralvuehydros.com/ .

You will have to join each to post. There are a lot of people on each that are ready to help. I have never had an issue with CoralVue support. CoralVue employees are on both helping people with questions and issues. if you are interested you might want go ahead and join both.

 

[airvicconcre]

I stopped reading at this point as i would very much encourage other options, someone else may have recommended and if so I will parrot it... power converters are yet another and very likely high chance failure point. Anything you buy here could be bought elsewhere without using something like a power converter. If purchasing online is an option for you maybe to pick up elsewhere as you travel home if it cannot be shipped to home? but i would highly suggest getting a European/Asian model that matches your power if in any way you can over a U.S. model and using a power converter.

Every time i leave the u.s. i have nightmares about plugging in my laptop or phone through a power converter. Luckily i havent run into problems myself but i have read many horror stories and the thought of my tanks life support going through one would have me choosing to run with no controller.

Theyre absolutely lovely to have but not necessary especially if it means adding another point of failure.

Hello. Everyone here is talking and making sense in all the opinions I’m getting here. I’m probably gonna learn a lot being on this site.
like you said it’s a risk, well I’m quite aware hence skeptical. I’m gonna check if it works well with a power converter.