Newbie: Overflow Water Level / Sump

[Matthew Frost]

I know its frustrating John but stick with us, we'll get you sorted out.

 

[johnbr]

I know its frustrating John but stick with us, we'll get you sorted out.

Just left the Vectra at the slowest possible. Nothing changed. Should I play now with the air valve in the cap of the durso?

Anyone in Orlando area willing to stop by. LOL

Thanks for everything guys.

 

[johnbr]

Last Update showing the water level swinging. Vectra has 3 speed leds. Tried to play with an air valve but nothing happened.

 

[TaylorPilot]

I wouldn't change anything in the overflow as far as height. That is optimal. I think your surging is due to the hole being too small...It can't draw in enough air and is creating a siphon. Everything I was talking about would happen down at the bulkheads in the sump. Right there where the drain goes into the bulkhead going into the sump. Turn that 90 into a T and put some pipe sticking up with a cap and a hole on it. You want some of that air to come out. The best thing you can do though, is split the line and have it go into both bulkheads so the water is allot slower.

 

[johnbr]

I wouldn't change anything in the overflow as far as height. That is optimal. I think your surging is due to the hole being too small...It can't draw in enough air and is creating a siphon. Everything I was talking about would happen down at the bulkheads in the sump. Right there where the drain goes into the bulkhead going into the sump. Turn that 90 into a T and put some pipe sticking up with a cap and a hole on it. You want some of that air to come out. The best thing you can do though, is split the line and have it go into both bulkheads so the water is allot slower.

Now I think I understood. So I'm going to remove the 90 degree put T one end of the (the one is facing to the top another CAP with another hole like if it was another durso and the other end of the T piping back into the bulk head right?

Question: instead of running another T why not the X so I can use on for the cap with a hole and the other 2 going into my both sump inlets?

 

[Matthew Frost]

Last Update showing the water level swinging. Vectra has 3 speed leds. Tried to play with an air valve but nothing happened.

Ok, this is exactly what transitioning between full siphon and breaking siphon. You need a bit more air behind the water. The hole needs to be a bit bigger. Incrementally increase the size of that hole until it normalizes.

 

[TaylorPilot]

That should work. Although, in an ideal, I would split it, then put a t on each one. The thing is your are trying split the water to slow it down as much as possible when it enters the sump.

 

[johnbr]

Ok, this is exactly what transitioning between full siphon and breaking siphon. You need a bit more air behind the water. The hole needs to be a bit bigger. Incrementally increase the size of that hole until it normalizes.

Ok will do that.

That should work. Although, in an ideal, I would split it, then put a t on each one. The thing is your are trying split the water to slow it down as much as possible when it enters the sump.

What about both options at the same time? Bigger hole on the cap in the on the durso and T and another CAP same hole size in the sump?

 

[Matthew Frost]

You get the durso to normalize and you should be fine. Even though you will have a fair volume of water going into the sump it will be calmer. You're still going to have bubbles bu they will be smaller and more of them. Like big soda type bubbles.

 

[johnbr]

You get the durso to normalize and you should be fine. Even though you will have a fair volume of water going into the sump it will be calmer. You're still going to have bubbles bu they will be smaller and more of them. Like big soda type bubbles.

Made a bigger hole in the cap. Same thing.

Question @TaylorPilot if I put a T in the sump don't you think the water will exit from the hole in the cap as well?

Thanks

 

[TaylorPilot]

The T goes above the sump. That was what I was mentioning. I would make the pipe coming out of the T a foot or so tall, so it won't do that. If the line got clogged below the T, it would come out the hole, so it was common to route the line over the tank in case it get clogged, it will just run into the sump. It is a little bit of a pain, but it does help some.

 

[johnbr]

The T goes above the sump. That was what I was mentioning. I would make the pipe coming out of the T a foot or so tall, so it won't do that. If the line got clogged below the T, it would come out the hole, so it was common to route the line over the tank in case it get clogged, it will just run into the sump. It is a little bit of a pain, but it does help some.

Yeah above the same is right above the bulkhead where I'm gonna run the T and the pipe into the sump bulkhead. Right?

 

[Jeepguy242]

Try running just a standpipe instead of the durso.

I could never get mine tuned with a durso

 

[TaylorPilot]

Right. First I would drill out the durso more to get it to stop surging. See what that does first. Is that an M1 Vectra? What size is your drain line? I find my tolerance for noise is ALLOT lower than most people. If I can hear my tank over the central AC then it is too loud and would drive me crazy. That might be all you need to fit your comfort level.

 

[johnbr]

Right. First I would drill out the durso more to get it to stop surging. See what that does first. Is that an M1 Vectra? What size is your drain line? I find my tolerance for noise is ALLOT lower than most people. If I can hear my tank over the central AC then it is too loud and would drive me crazy. That might be all you need to fit your comfort level.

Just before I start tho cut and glue. Is that how it has to be?

Pumop is the Vectra M1 and return 3/4", already drilled a bigger hole and same thing.

 

[johnbr]

Try running just a standpipe instead of the durso.

I could never get mine tuned with a durso

Someone told me I couldn't use it since I only have one drain.

 

[TaylorPilot]

Just before I start tho cut and glue. Is that how it has to be?

Pumop is the Vectra M1 and return 3/4", already drilled a bigger hole and same thing.

Yea, that looks good. I would raise that cap up a little higher if you can. I'd put probably a 6" piece in between the T and the cap. I wouldn't glue on the cap either. That way if you need to remove it to drill it out more, or want to remove it to clean. The cap doesn't need to be water tight.

 

[johnbr]

Yea, that looks good. I would raise that cap up a little higher if you can. I'd put probably a 6" piece in between the T and the cap. I wouldn't glue on the cap either. That way if you need to remove it to drill it out more, or want to remove it to clean. The cap doesn't need to be water tight.

Do you think it would've be even better if I find a way to use both drains in the sump? To split the flow? Would take increase even more my chances for the air to leave the system?

 

[TaylorPilot]

Absolutely. Much more than one. That way the water would be flowing down each one at half the speed. Then all the large air bubbles should move up and out the caps, with only fine bubbles coming out the bottom.

 

[TaylorPilot]

Really, just keeping one line won't change much with the vent, because the water will be flowing the same speed. Its the splitting it up and slowing down the water flow that allows some of that air to escape.