Newbie Plumbing question

Edmund Y.

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Good evening!
I have a couple of questions about hard plumbing my sump. My tank is a little over a year old. Plumbing is flexible hose and I was wondering if it’s hard to hard plumb it without draining the water.
I have two overflow boxes and it was plumb in such a way that both returns are in one overflow box and both drains in the other.
The flexible tubings get in the way and cleaning the sump is a hassle and looks messy.
Appreciate any advise and thanks in advance.
 
post a pic if possible and yes it can be done without draining the actual tank. you will have to drain the overflow box to make changes,
Also while you are at it i would fix it by making 1 drain and 1 return on each overflow box.
 
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post a pic if possible and yes it can be done without draining the actual tank. you will have to drain the overflow box to make changes,
Also while you are at it i would fix it by making 1 drain and 1 return on each overflow box.
+1
Also, wow, love the zip ties.
 
On the return it looks like you'll need new bulkheads because those look like they're molded with the barb fittings. Kind of hard to tell on the drains but best to just go new slip/slip bulkheads all around. Would also fix it so it's drain and return in each overflow. Barring no leaks into the back of the overflows you just drain them and you're good.
 
Is there something wrong with how your system is running?

From what I can see, your drain hose paths go down and then incline again to the sump. If it's working, I'd tie up the hoses in a way that your drainage path is all down or level... no traveling up.

As already mentioned, your current bulkheads are barbed for hose connections. You'd have to swap them out for bulkheads that are threaded or slip if you want to do PVC plumbing. Don't see how you're doing that without draining the entire tank.

If it isn't broken, don't fix it.
 
Is there something wrong with how your system is running?

From what I can see, your drain hose paths go down and then incline again to the sump. If it's working, I'd tie up the hoses in a way that your drainage path is all down or level... no traveling up.

As already mentioned, your current bulkheads are barbed for hose connections. You'd have to swap them out for bulkheads that are threaded or slip if you want to do PVC plumbing. Don't see how you're doing that without draining the entire tank.

If it isn't broken, don't fix it.

It's possible he won't need to drain the entire tank if there's enough room below to work on the bulkheads. He just needs to drain the overflows.
 
It's possible he won't need to drain the entire tank if there's enough room below to work on the bulkheads. He just needs to drain the overflows.


Fair point. I made some assumptions as there are no pictures of the tank, only the plumbing.
 
I’ve replaced hose and bulkheads many times. As long as the overflows are water tight it is quite easy. No need to put Teflon tape on the external bulk head threads, just puts pressure on the nut.
 
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This is the tank
I didn’t personally do the plumbing when the tank was started a year ago.
No problems with flow. It’s more aesthetics and for maintenance. Had a hard time removing the skimmer for cleaning since return line is right beside it
 
AD1C0CEC-039D-426F-8780-72E4C6069E4E.jpeg


This is the tank
I didn’t personally do the plumbing when the tank was started a year ago.
No problems with flow. It’s more aesthetics and for maintenance. Had a hard time removing the skimmer for cleaning since return line is right beside it
I agree with others try and take the dips out of drain lines.

I for one prefer hard plumbing but many are successful with soft plumbing.

No reason to not have your return plumbing soft plumbed. I have about 1.5' of vinyl from my pump to my 1" sch 40 return for anti-vibration purposes.

If rerouting the return for your convenience is the issue that's the easy one. Drains would be more work
 
Thanks to everyone for the help!!!
I’ll try to get rid of the dips when I get home.
 

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