Newbie SPS Parameter sanity check

Javamahn · Nov 28, 2018

Is it normal to still clean the glass on an ULNS SPS system every day? The tank is only 3 months old so I know I should not make any big changes but I want to be sure I am on the right path

I use Aquaforest Reef Salt. I am dosing 6ml DIY NoPOx along with Aquaforest 123+ that I mix myself from dry.My daily dose is 30ml for all 3 components to keep my parameters "steady" at:

CA - 455 ppm - Aquaforest
Mg - 1500 ppm - Red Sea
Alk - 7.7-7.9 dKh - Hanna
NO3 - 2.5ppm -Salifert
PO4 - not detected with Hanna 713 (I have the ULR on the way)
Ph stays between 8.0 and 8.4 - Apex
Temp 78.5-79.5
Salinity 1.025

I am waiting on an ICP result to confirm my testing is accurate and give me a better overall view.

Flow is 2 Apex WAVs running 20-60% and 2 3/4" returns from a Vectra L1 at 80%
Lighting is 3x Radion 3 30w (non Pro) for 10 hours daily supplemented with 4x T5-54w for 6 hours in the middle of the light cycle.

Any comments or suggestions are welcome. I am not planning any highend sticks until I know the tank can handle it. Right now frags of Montis, stylos, digis, Millis and a few lps.

saltyfilmfolks · Nov 28, 2018

IMO.

Stop carbon dosing. You have NO Po4.

You are likely feeding the film algae directly, depending on the formulation of your DYI nopox.

Phosphate block seems to be the leading reason so many folks are getting dinos etc. phosphate block is when the Po4 is so low the nitrifying bacteria all die.

Javamahn · Nov 28, 2018

saltyfilmfolks said:
IMO.

Stop carbon dosing. You have NO Po4.

You are likely feeding the film algae directly, depending on the formulation of your DYI nopox.

Phosphate block seems to be the leading reason so many folks are getting dinos etc. phosphate block is when the Po4 is so low the nitrifying bacteria all die.

I've done the "dinowar" before. No fun for sure. Can I just stop the 6ml NoPOx (50% vinegar, 38% vodka, 12% RODI) or dial back slow? I am not convinced that my Hanna is measuring correctly which another reason I am getting the ICP and the ULR checker. I have only seen measurable PO4 once in 3 months even though I feed daily. At least my algae is green and not brown and snotty with bubbles. Thanks for the reply BTW

saltyfilmfolks · Nov 28, 2018

Yes. You can just stop Caron dosing.

Many green algaes can directly metabolize the acetate in the vinegar.

jda · Nov 28, 2018

Yes, true ULNS tanks still have film algae on the glass- the goal of these systems is to have massive amount of nitrogen, phosphorous and the like, but with heavy import and heavy export, they have low residual values (readings on a test kit).

However, you do not have a ULNS system with 2.5 ppm of nitrate.

New tanks can have very low phosphate levels as new/fresh aragonite bind up the phosphate for a while. This will fix it's self naturally, just give it time... aragonite binds phosphate and leaves an "equilibrium" in the water, so the more that it binds, the more that will be left over the the water column.

I cannot stress this enough... if you are growing algae, then you have enough building blocks and it does not matter what your nitrate and phosphate levels are. The number on a test kit means nothing if you can see algae in your tank. Systems that truly have too few building blocks typically have coralline that grows out of control, algae, dinos and cyano that cannot grow or form and corals that are pale, but alive, and usually do not grow too fast.

Generally speaking it is not a good idea to try a true ULNS tank until the tank has been mature and predictable for quite some time. 24 months is a good rule of thumb, but some can do it after 12 months. Until your tank gets super stable, you are aiming at a moving target.