Next most important parameter to test.

Stemick · Jan 10, 2015

The main parameter that we test or dose for are most likely ammonia, nitrate, phosphates, alkalinity, calcium, and magnesium. These are all the common ones that are tested for and watched to try and keep within acceptable limits. What would you think should be the next most important to test and try to keep within limits. Would it depend on what type of tank it was (Softy, LPS, SPS, Mixed) or is there something that just important in general to test for other then the main ones no matter what tank type. What would be the right parameter limits to for it? How would you test and dose for it?

:usa2:STEMICK:usa2:

redfishbluefish · Jan 10, 2015

If you have a FOWLR or FO, and you are doing weekly (or frequently water changes), the only thing you really need to test is salinity. Nitrates should take care of themselves with the water changes.

If you have a reef tank (and again, doing water changes), you need to include alk, calc and mag. Otherwise, the other tests aren't really necessary usless you have a problem.

Caveat: if you are running a system such as Nutareef Denitrifier, you'll also need to test for nitrates and phosphates.

Randy Holmes-Farley · Jan 10, 2015

I agree with salinity being the most important of all.

Next for me on the list in addition to those mentioned is pH. Potassium is the only other kit test I'd consider doing.

Lab testing opens up more possibilities, but their importance varies.

Randy Holmes-Farley · Jan 10, 2015

This article describes all of the parameters I consider important, and what my recommended values are:
https://www.reef2reef.com/forums/re...-coral-reef-aquarium-randy-holmes-farley.html

Cory · Jan 11, 2015

Salinity is important but once it's set, you can typically forget it. Unless your skimmer is skimming out lots you have to replace it.

I disagree that only salinity should be measured in a fish only. Alkalinity does decline and I've seen it happen in my fish only. Once it got down to 5dkh, because my chaeto macro algae was full of detritus. I'd imagine the bacteria were reducing it there.

But if your looking to save money, I'd recommend monitoring salinity and alkalinity for a fish only. For a full reef with corals and fish, imo you must measure salinity, calcium, alkalinity, magnesium, and potassium (especially if you have macros or dose bacteria food like vodka or use biopellets).

cope413 · Jan 11, 2015

Bacteria doesn't consume alk as far as I'm aware...

Keithcorals · Jan 11, 2015

+1 on potassium (saliefert is my favorite kit for testing it) seems to be more likely to become low in ulns SPS tanks.

Stemick · Jan 11, 2015

I forgot to add PH and Salinity as one of the more common ones tested for in my original post. I was trying to get more at ones that is not one that is commonly brought up to watch or test for like potassium, iodine, silica, strontium, and ORP. ORP I notices is watch a little more commonly too. Looks like from previous comments that potassium is one to watch if you where to go beyond the more common ones. Who else agrees with that?
Randy Holmes-Farley thanks for the links to the charts.

:usa2: STEMICK :usa2:

Randy Holmes-Farley · Jan 11, 2015

I wouldn't bother to measure iodine, strontium, or ORP. I've measured all of them in the past, but they are not important, IMO. ORP may have some minor utility (unless using ozone where it is important to keep from using too much). I do not consider iodine or strontium as useful additives for most tanks, and if it depletes, that is usually fine. They are depelted in my system.

Silica can be interesting. I dose it, but it depletes so fast that monitoring the actual level is not that important and I do not do so. But adding some has value to growing sponges, etc.