Nitrate 27.6 cycling tank

[reefingformysons]

Hi guys,

So I’m currently cycling a tank with a pair of clownfish in and using Fritz turbo start 900.

Checked levels today and nitrate was at 27.6ppm and ammonia looks just under 0.5.

Is this going to kill the fish?

Do I need to do a water change to get those figures down or wait it out?

Thanks

 

[Mr. Mojo Rising]

Always funny that folks will cycle a tank with fish but then show concern for the fish.

Nitrate of 27 is not going to hurt them, but I don't know if that's enough ammonia to hurt them. I would not do a water change at this point IMO, might as well let the tank complete the cycle.

 

[Dan_P]

Hi guys,

So I’m currently cycling a tank with a pair of clownfish in and using Fritz turbo start 900.

Checked levels today and nitrate was at 27.6ppm and ammonia looks just under 0.5.

Is this going to kill the fish?

Do I need to do a water change to get those figures down or wait it out?

Thanks

What is the nitrite level?

0.5 ppm ammonia might harm the fish but not kill them.

 

[reefingformysons]

What is the nitrite level?

0.5 ppm ammonia might harm the fish but not kill them.

Nitrate is 27.6

 

[brandon429]

Post a tank pic

it will show fish not in a distressed position in the tank, swimming normally (aerotaxis when gills are burned, hover at the highest oxygen concentration zone in the tank vs swimming normally) because they’re not harmed

are your fish’s gills panting at an increased rate, or completely normal in every way you can see (swimming, gills, eating)

fritz is the best bac around

post an actual pic of your ammonia test in clear lighting against the indicator card

Post a pic of the vial plus the indicator card in clear daylight

once we get the brand name of this kit from the picture, you can search out notable misreads this test always causes

a very clear distinction between new and old cycling science is coming up after the two pics, one of the tank and one of the test kit

only the ammonia test, we don’t need to see any other test. Nitrate isn’t harmful to fish.

 

[brandon429]

We also need to know if your fish + Fritz have been in the tank more than ten days or less than ten days

did you move over the rocks from your old tank into this new one or are these all new rocks (original posts prior show you had another system running before this one)

 

[reefingformysons]

Post a tank pic

it will show fish not in a distressed position in the tank, swimming normally (aerotaxis when gills are burned, hover at the highest oxygen concentration zone in the tank vs swimming normally) because they’re not harmed

are your fish’s gills panting at an increased rate, or completely normal in every way you can see (swimming, gills, eating)

fritz is the best bac around

post an actual pic of your nh4 non-digital test kit it’s not really .5 even if the kit says so. Post a pic of the vial plus the indicator card in clear daylight

once we get the brand name of this kit from the picture, you can search out notable misreads this test always causes

a very clear distinction between new and old cycling science is coming up after the two pics, one of the tank and one of the test kit

only the ammonia test, we don’t need to see any other test. Nitrate isn’t harmful to fish.

One of them has been swimming near the surface and staying there for the past couple of days whilst the larger (female) has been fine. The male does swim around the tanks but has mainly been swimming at the top of the tank.

 

[brandon429]

That’s a passing test for ammonia not a failed one
we hardly ever get zero levels on non digital kits

where did that rock come from, was it dry when added here or from the prior tank

ammonia affects all animals

selective issues tend towards disease, he’s leaning over, the other clown is fine

I see spirorbid worms on that rock, it appears to be transferred from another tank?

 

[brandon429]

it sure would take a completely dead bottle of bac/ wouldn’t give any nitrite or nitrate readings in conversion + an inordinate amount of daily feed to drive that system up to ammonia non control levels, in that much dilution

and the water would go cloudy


still need to know number of days tank has been setup after Fritz and rock details

 

[reefingformysons]

That’s a passing test for ammonia not a failed one (that reading is nh4 the nh3 conversion card in the instructions shows you must estimate a 10x reduction ~ to get to reefing specific levels)

where did that rock come from, was it dry when added here or from the prior tank

ammonia affects all animals

selective issues tend towards disease, he’s leaning over, the other clown is fine

I see spirorbid worms on that rock, it appears to be transferred from another tank?

Oh okay I never knew that I assumed that was the correct reading which is good! So would that suggest the tank is now cycled then?

Also the aquascape is made from the Caribsea shapes 20lb box and arrived dry.

So I didn’t transfer it literally took it out the box and made a structure then popped it in.

The temp is running a bit high last couple days it’s been at 27 degrees Celsius. I have cooling fans arriving tommorow.

How would I be able to cure him and get rid of those worms you mentioned?

 

[reefingformysons]

it sure would take a completely dead bottle of bac/ wouldn’t give any nitrite or nitrate readings in conversion + an inordinate amount of daily feed to drive that system up to ammonia non control levels, in that much dilution

and the water would go cloudy


still need to know number of days tank has been setup after Frits and rock details

Tank was set up 21st of June.

I dosed half the Fritz that night then the other half the following morning. The clownfish where put in several hours later on the 22nd.

 

[brandon429]

Not able to know just yet about the clown, too early to know if he has issues that may just be a twist for that current pic



I can see you did a dry rock cycle with fritz, there’s hundreds of those on the site. You are having to use this main display reef to observe fish for disease vs from an alternate quarantine tank so we need more time, not sure of his issues if any

the worms were on the rock I thought, white little dots was hard to make out in the pics but that’s not applicable here since they were dry. if that was my tank I would continue monitoring the fish for behavioral changes or marks that appear if any and compare them to disease forum troubleshoots on clownfish / too early to tell here

in my opinion the bottle bac worked fine and you’re off and reefing, perhaps a fish disease challenge is something to look out for. I would not add more fish for a while to make sure he is ok first/ not a disease issue

 

[reefingformysons]

Not able to know just yet about the clown, too early to know if he has issues that may just be a twist for that current pic



I can see you did a dry rock cycle with fritz, there’s hundreds of those on the site. You are having to use this main display reef to observe fish for disease vs from an alternate quarantine tank so we need more time, not sure of his issues if any

the worms were on the rock I thought, white little dots was hard to make out in the pics but that’s not applicable here since they were dry. if that was my tank I would continue monitoring the fish for behavioral changes or marks that appear if any and compare them to disease forum troubleshoots on clownfish / too early to tell here

in my opinion the bottle bad worked fine and you’re off and reefing, perhaps a fish disease challenge is something to look out for. I would not add more fish for a while to make sure he is ok first/ not a disease issue

Thank you so much for taking the time to look into for me and your input. It was invaluable.

Really appreciate it

 

[reefingformysons]

Not able to know just yet about the clown, too early to know if he has issues that may just be a twist for that current pic



I can see you did a dry rock cycle with fritz, there’s hundreds of those on the site. You are having to use this main display reef to observe fish for disease vs from an alternate quarantine tank so we need more time, not sure of his issues if any

the worms were on the rock I thought, white little dots was hard to make out in the pics but that’s not applicable here since they were dry. if that was my tank I would continue monitoring the fish for behavioral changes or marks that appear if any and compare them to disease forum troubleshoots on clownfish / too early to tell here

in my opinion the bottle bac worked fine and you’re off and reefing, perhaps a fish disease challenge is something to look out for. I would not add more fish for a while to make sure he is ok first/ not a disease issue

I have another Fluval evo with some corals in it. It also has a juvenile clownfish which I received when i purchased this breeding pair.

He seems to have brooks but I haven’t noticed anything visual on the adults in this main tank so was planning to get another Fluval evo to quarentine the sick one and nurse him back to recovery. I don’t know if I’m better off just complexity emptying the one I currently have and replacing the water would that get rid of the brooks or would I have to still wait 6 weeks to put fish back in there.

We also don’t have ruby reef or formalin in the UK as far as I’m aware so unsure of how to heal him.

 

[brandon429]

I’m not sure either how to fix brooklynella if that’s the issue but the disease forum will have options for sure

 

[Dan_P]

Nitrate is 27.6

Nitrite is what I was wondering about because a little interferes a lot with the nitrate test.

 

[reefingformysons]

Nitrite is what I was wondering about because a little interferes a lot with the nitrate test.

Oh sorry I don’t actually have a nitrite test shall pick one up tommorow for sure

 

[Dan_P]

Oh sorry I don’t actually have a nitrite test shall pick one up tommorow for sure

Sometimes new systems have lingering amounts of nitrite that screw up the nitrate test.