Nitrate and Phosphate Help

[Dan_P]

Hi All,
My tank is currently suffering from too low nitrate (0mg/L) and phosphate (0mg/L). I have just increased my nitrate and phosphate levels by increasing feed from 2 times a week to now 3 (spot feeding) + 1 (Broadcast feeding) times a week.

My tank is 75 gallons, has only a pair of clownfish and 14 corals that consist of Euphyllia, Trachyphilla, Goniopora, Kenya Tree, Elegance, Acanthophyllia, cynarina and Mircromussa lords.

What I feed - 1/2 cube Mysis, 1/4 tsp reef roids and some Fauna Marine LPS.

Some of my corals are unhappy but majority are alright. The frammer that I have is not as extending as before and part of my goniopora are closed but after feeding they are alright.

I need some help in what to do and I have come up with a few things but am unsure about it.

1. Increase Feeding Frequency
2. Increase Feeding Quantity
3. Off Skimmer and Filter Roll
4. Don't Water change (Currently I am doing weekly 10% water Change)
5. Dose Nitrate and Phosphate

I am unsure if I should do number 4 and number 5. I am thinking of only doing it as a last resort.Any input would be good on what I should do to increase my nitrate and phosphate levels.

Thank you

Just do #5. Are you dosing trace elements?

 

[Polyp Punk]

My Mg levels are now above 1500. But I am changing salt brand as there is some issue with mine causing low alk.

What brand was it ?

 

[Subsea]

@Resz
kudoes to what DanP said. I suggest you dose nitrogen. Not knowing your system gas exchange with respect to your protein skimmer, consider allowing skimmate to return to tank. Get your nutrient levels up, expecially phosphate & nitrate before the dino outbreak takes your tank.

Contrary to reef hobby folklore: zero phosphates & zero nitrates are BAD in a “reef tank”, because opportunistic algaes can cope with zero N & P. In effect, zero nitrates & phosphates limit good algae and encourage bad algae like dinoflagellates.

https://brsinstructions.s3.amazonaws.com/Dinoflagellates.pdf

[Dinoflagellates depend on specific conditions and nutrients to fuel their growth. It largely comes down to an imbalance of available nutrients, and a lack of competition. From what we are learning about Dinos, explosive growth seems to be triggered in systems where nitrate and phosphate are extremely low. Excess carbon also seems to be a factor, and these two things are often connected. This is common in reef tanks that are using carbon dosing to lower nitrate and/or phosphate, and when those nutrients get too low, regular algae typically can’t thrive, while Dinos can.]

 

[Subsea]

@Resz
For your system, consider heavily dosing phytoplankton, while dosing nitrogen & phosphate

@Dana Riddle can guide you in this?

 

[biecacka]

I haven’t. But if you are looking for all the checkers, people do seem to like it. Maybe someone with some experience can chime in.

Corey

 

[Resz]

Just do #5. Are you dosing trace elements?

Sorry about the late reply, no I am not dosing trace elements.

 

[Resz]

What brand was it ?

DD H2Ocean

 

[Resz]

@Resz
kudoes to what DanP said. I suggest you dose nitrogen. Not knowing your system gas exchange with respect to your protein skimmer, consider allowing skimmate to return to tank. Get your nutrient levels up, expecially phosphate & nitrate before the dino outbreak takes your tank.

Contrary to reef hobby folklore: zero phosphates & zero nitrates are BAD in a “reef tank”, because opportunistic algaes can cope with zero N & P. In effect, zero nitrates & phosphates limit good algae and encourage bad algae like dinoflagellates.

https://brsinstructions.s3.amazonaws.com/Dinoflagellates.pdf

[Dinoflagellates depend on specific conditions and nutrients to fuel their growth. It largely comes down to an imbalance of available nutrients, and a lack of competition. From what we are learning about Dinos, explosive growth seems to be triggered in systems where nitrate and phosphate are extremely low. Excess carbon also seems to be a factor, and these two things are often connected. This is common in reef tanks that are using carbon dosing to lower nitrate and/or phosphate, and when those nutrients get too low, regular algae typically can’t thrive, while Dinos can.]

Sorry for the late reply, will do. Nitrogen as in the Nitrate one from redsea? and the phytoplankton is it live?

 

[Resz]

I haven’t. But if you are looking for all the checkers, people do seem to like it. Maybe someone with some experience can chime in.

Corey

Np, I will ask about my local community. Thanks

 

[Subsea]

Sorry for the late reply, will do. Nitrogen as in the Nitrate one from redsea? and the phytoplankton is it live?

I have used Austin clear ammonia for last 15 years. Phytoplankton is from a continuous live culture in which I dose Live Photo when lights come on. It will continue growing and absorbing N in a ratio of 16:1 which is the Redfield Ratio. Even during daylight, phyto is consumed be filter feeders.