Nitrate and Phosphate Issue

reeftankdude

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According to API test kits my nitrate is zero and my phosphate is somewhere between zero and 0.25ppm. I have a 20 gallon high and really do not want to overfeed. My filtration is 3/4 cup of activated carbon and a 50 micron polishing cloth. I have not done a water change in about three weeks to keep things stable. Dosing Kent Nano Reef three time a week for the size of a twelve gallon tank. The tank is three months old with no corals. I have a few fish, a few scarlet hermits, and twenty snails that are being feed algae wafers. I just turned the lights on ten days ago. Coralline algae is starting to spread. Thinking of doing colorful mushrooms, a few feather dusters and an anemone last. Found a nitrate product that may work. Left click the image. thanks all

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Before trying to dose to raise nutrients you should probably get some better tests first. Also, using sodium nitrate is a better solution than potassium nitrate.
I used to use stump remover (sodium nitrate) but switched at the recommendation of Randy.
 
I do not recommend potassium nitrate (the linked product) unless you are monitoring potassium.

Sodium nitrate and calcium nitrate are better. They do not run the risk of rising potassium too much.
 
What is the best calcium/sodium nitrate product, and where can I get it? thanks all
 
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Been using API since the 80s. Not going to offer precision but accurate enough if instructions are followed correctly. Especially with Nitrates.

This is how I test the color. Cameras have their own interpretation of white balance. Our eyes are better at it which means the color we see may not be exact since our eyes can compensate yet by taking a photo it’s easy to compare two colors when next to each other under the same light. Doesn’t have to be full spectrum. Plus the card is white which assist the camera to color correct based on best white balance interpretation. Wished I had a phone that took pics in the 80s.
 
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Been using API since the 80s. Not going to offer precision but accurate enough if instructions are followed correctly. Especially with Nitrates.

This is how I test the color. Cameras have their own interpretation of white balance. Our eyes are better at it which means the color we see may not be exact since our eyes can compensate yet by taking a photo it’s easy to compare two colors when next to each other under the same light. Doesn’t have to be full spectrum. Plus the card is white which assist the camera to color correct based on best white balance interpretation. Wished I had a phone that took pics in the 80s.
Did the test as you advised. It is now showing I have 20ppm nitrate. I fully respect your advice and thank you for it. The problem is the API kit did not come with instructions to measure nitrate levels by looking down with the glass tube up vertically. Well if I am at 20ppm my tank is ready for some softies. Thanks very much GARRIGA.
 
Did the test as you advised. It is now showing I have 20ppm nitrate. I fully respect your advice and thank you for it. The problem is the API kit did not come with instructions to measure nitrate levels by looking down with the glass tube up vertically. Well if I am at 20ppm my tank is ready for some softies. Thanks very much GARRIGA.
I’ve tried looking from different angles and this has been the best approach. BTW, consider getting a magnetic stirrer with some 20 ml vials. Makes testing much easier.
 
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Got this from BRS
 
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Not lab grade precise but good enough for what we do and most importantly it provides repeatable results which’s is what I believe matters.
 
I don't know I may be old school but I just don't understand dosing nitrate in an aquarium. to me it just seems like you have available living space to increase your bio load. Now to be honest I do have a couple of corals specifically my Stylocoeniellas that appeared to enjoy nitrates over 10ppm, but my montis and acros wouldn't show any good polyp extension until I brought those nitrates under 5 ppm.
 
I don't know I may be old school but I just don't understand dosing nitrate in an aquarium. to me it just seems like you have available living space to increase your bio load. Now to be honest I do have a couple of corals specifically my Stylocoeniellas that appeared to enjoy nitrates over 10ppm, but my montis and acros wouldn't show any good polyp extension until I brought those nitrates under 5 ppm.

While one may argue that nitrate is not the "best" source of N to dose, are you questioning the whole need to maintain adequate N, or just how you'd go about it?

If your tank has 0.1 ppm phosphate and undetectable nitrate, what would you suggest doing?
 
What is the best calcium/sodium nitrate product, and where can I get it? thanks all

There's no single best product.

High purity calcium nitrate has some small advantages over high purity sodium nitrate.

ESV calcium nitrate is likely a good choice, as is food or ACS reagent grade calcium nitrate.

For most folks, food grade sodium nitrate (many brands are available) is also a good choice that is cheaper and more readily available.
 
I just find nitrates kind of an enigma. The point where they go from being a useful available nutrient source to becoming a limiting factor seems all over the place in different aquariums and with different corals
 
if You dose need to test everyday at same time at first and remember nitrates can be released back in water from rocks at any given time. Nitrates day 1 might be at 0 dose then get them to 1 a week later there at 10 for 6 months then them rocks and whatever else you got in there releases dose nitrates you got 100 nitrates then system crash. Don't dose in a 20 gallon tank just feed the fish once a day them nitrates will appear soon. No corals why dose ? Fish don't need nitrates, feed the fish make them poop.
 
if You dose need to test everyday at same time at first and remember nitrates can be released back in water from rocks at any given time. Nitrates day 1 might be at 0 dose then get them to 1 a week later there at 10 for 6 months then them rocks and whatever else you got in there releases dose nitrates you got 100 nitrates then system crash. Don't dose in a 20 gallon tank just feed the fish once a day them nitrates will appear soon. No corals why dose ? Fish don't need nitrates, feed the fish make them poop.

What process are you referring to about rocks releasing nitrate?

Nitrate does not bind directly to rock the way phosphate does.
 
What process are you referring to about rocks releasing nitrate?

Nitrate does not bind directly to rock the way phosphate does.
I have to disagree to lower nitrates in tank you can take out the rocks or them bricks and nitrates will go down. Proven Fact so therefore nitrates are in bricks and rocks even reefdudes and chumminghamreef says it also. It was even said on there video on YouTube there not the only ones even BRS has a video out that's says it also called nutrients. no disrespect Mr. Randy. So why can't they release it back into aquarium they are in bricks and rocks soaked up nutrients and nitrates in there. rock today is not live rock it all man made not solid its little pieces put together to make look like a rock this stuff soaks up nitrates. Something else to think about 100% water change nitrates don't go down much why ? Because it's In the rocks, substrate ,bricks remove these things and nitrates will go down. My believe that's all and a few others also.
 
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